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I am wondering what the pipe that runs from rear of drivers side exhaust to the front of intake manifold is, and if would cause antifreeze consumption thru the exhaust? 1996 chevy tahoe vortec v8
It is running like it is missing on one cylinder, not bad just a miss. But will run all coolant out burning and dripping from tailpipe in 30 mins or soIt is running like it is missing on one cylinder, not bad just a miss. But will run all coolant out burning and dripping from tailpipe in 30 mins or so
I was losing coolant via exhaust manifold. I found the leak to be from a pipe that runs from somewhere near the thermostat housing all the way to the exhaust manifold. The problem is no one of the 6 mechanics I have visited including the dealership knew what was pipe for. Anyway, the dealership found it in their data base charts and told me it costs $116. I am waiting for the engine to cool down and going to take a shot on this by taking it out and see where the leak coming from, is it the connections or the pipe itself. If is the pipe, I think I'll be luck to find someone to braze it for me. If it is the connections, one of them is replaceable the other one, then I am up **** creek without the paddles.
I was losing coolant via exhaust manifold. I found the leak to be from a pipe that runs from somewhere near the thermostat housing all the way to the exhaust manifold. The problem is no one of the 6 mechanics I have visited including the dealership knew what was pipe for. Anyway, the dealership found it in their data base charts and told me it costs $116. I am waiting for the engine to cool down and going to take a shot on this by taking it out and see where the leak coming from, is it the connections or the pipe itself. If is the pipe, I think I'll be luck to find someone to braze it for me. If it is the connections, one of them is replaceable the other one, then I am up **** creek without the paddles.
AnonymousMar 22, 2014
Antifreeze in exhaust pipeAntifreeze in exhaust pipe
AnonymousMar 30, 2014
Hole about the size of silver dollarHole about the size of silver dollar
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your coolant is coming from a cracked block,head, headgasket could alos be coming from intake gasket leaking into intake port is truck running rough?your coolant is coming from a cracked block,head, headgasket could alos be coming from intake gasket leaking into intake port is truck running rough?
I believe you have a blown headgasket. the coolant passage is shooting a stream straight into one cylinder.I believe you have a blown headgasket. the coolant passage is shooting a stream straight into one cylinder.
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Drain the cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling . Remove the intake manifold cover, if necessary. Refer to Intake Manifold Cover Replacement . Remove the exhaust crossover pipe. Refer to Exhaust Crossover Pipe Replacement . Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor electrical connector. Remove the ECT sensor.
Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
In the left side of the front cylinder head, above the transmission
I suggest you use all new exhaust manifold hardware and torque new bolts to 20 Ft Lbs. 4.5L and 4.9L Engines RIGHT Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the air cleaner. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe. Disconnect the oxygen and coolant temperature sensors. Remove the catalytic converter-to-AIR pipe clip bolt. Remove the upper manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. Raise and safely support the vehicle. Disconnect the converter air pipe bracket from the stud and remove the converter-to-manifold exhaust pipe. Support the engine cradle with screw jacks and remove the rear cradle bolts. Loosen the front cradle bolts and slightly lower the Engine cradle. Remove the remaining exhaust manifold-to-cylinder head bolts, the AIR pipe, and the manifold. Clean the gasket mounting surfaces. To install: Install the exhaust manifold and replace the AIR pipe. Tighten the manifold mounting bolts to 16-18 ft. lbs. (21-24 Nm). Install the manifold-to-converter exhaust pipe and replace the converter air pipe bracket to the stud. Raise the Engine cradle and install the rear cradle bolts. Tighten to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Lower the vehicle. Replace the upper manifold-to-cylinder head bolts. Replace the converter air pipe to AIR pipe clip bolt. Connect the coolant temperature and oxygen sensor connectors. Replace the exhaust crossover pipe. Replace the air cleaner and connect the negative battery cable. Start the Engine and check for leaks.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Drain the cooling system.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cableExhaust manifoldAlternatorWater crossoverIntake manifoldValve coverTiming coverSecondary camshaft drive chainPower steering return hose retaining bolt from the cylinder head3 M6 external drive bolts from the front portion of the cylinder head10 M11 internal drive cylinder head boltsCylinder head and gasket.
Clean the head mating surfaces.
To install:
Fig. Left cylinder head bolt torque sequence-4.6L engine
Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Lubricate the bolts with engine oil prior to installation.
Torque the M11 bolts in sequence as follows:
Step 1: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm), plus an additional 70 degrees
Step 2: Turn an additional 60 degrees
Step 3: Turn an additional 60 degrees (total 190 degrees)
Torque the M6 bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
Install or connect the following:
Power steering return hose retaining bolt to the cylinder head and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)Secondary camshaft drive chainTiming coverValve coverIntake manifoldWater crossoverExhaust manifoldNegative battery cable
Change the oil and filter.
Fill the cooling system.
Right Side
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Drain the cooling system.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Negative battery cableExhaust manifoldWater crossoverIntake manifoldValve coverTiming coverSecondary camshaft drive chainElectrical connector from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensorNut attaching the coil cassette ground wire to the cylinder headBolt attaching the exhaust crossover pipe to the cylinder headBolt attaching the right transaxle mount bracket to the cylinder headBolt attaching the rear transaxle brace to the transaxleNuts attaching the rear transaxle brace to the cylinder headRear transaxle brace3 M6 external drive bolts from the front portion of the cylinder head10 M11 internal drive cylinder head boltsCylinder head and gasket
Clean the head mating surfaces.
To install:
Fig. Right cylinder head bolt torque sequence- 4.6L engine
Install the cylinder head with a new gasket. Lubricate the bolts with engine oil prior to installation.
Torque the M11 bolts in sequence as follows:
Step 1: 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm), plus an additional 70 degrees.
Step 2: Turn an additional 60 degrees.
Step 3: Turn an additional 60 degrees (total 190 degrees).
Torque the M6 bolts to 106 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Install or connect the following:
Rear transaxle brace over the studs located at the rear of the right cylinder headNuts attaching the rear transaxle brace to the cylinder head, looselyBolts attaching the rear transaxle braces to the transaxle and tighten to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)Nuts attaching the rear transaxle brace to the cylinder head and tighten 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)Electrical connector to the ECT sensorBolt attaching the exhaust crossover pipe to the cylinder head and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)Nut attaching the coil cassette ground wire to the cylinder head and tighten to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm)Secondary camshaft drive chainTiming coverValve coverIntake manifoldWater crossoverExhaust manifoldNegative battery cable
Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
Possible Causes:
Air leak in the intake manifold, or in the EGR or EVAP systemBase engine mechanical fault that affects two or more cylindersErratic or interrupted CKP or CMP Sensor signalsFuel delivery component fault that affects two or more cylinders (i.e., a contaminated, dirty or sticking fuel injector)
Trouble Code: P0432
Catalyst Efficiency Below Normal (Bank 2)
Possible Causes:
Air leaks in at the exhaust manifold or exhaust pipesBase engine problems (high coolant or engine oil consumption)Catalytic converter damaged or has failedFront O2 older (aged) than the rear O2 (O2 is lazy)Ignition system problem (coil or plug) in two or more cylindersVehicle driven with low fuel pressure or while very low on fuel
Exactly what is the wrong? Need the part? Need to know torque adjust or porcedure to take off? For 1994 Pontiac Grand Am 3.1L SFI OHV 6cyl check this procedure for Intake Manifold... (see Figure 14) The 3.1L engine is equipped with upper and lower intake manifolds.
The upper intake manifold is also known as the intake manifold plenum.
CAUTION
The fuel system is under pressure and must be properly relieved
before disconnecting the fuel lines. Failure to properly relieve the
fuel system pressure can lead to personal injury and component damage.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove top half of the air cleaner assembly and throttle body duct.
Drain and recycle the engine coolant.
Disconnect the EGR pipe from exhaust manifold.
Remove the serpentine belt.
Remove the brake vacuum pipe at the intake plenum.
Disconnect the control cables from the throttle body and intake plenum mounting bracket.
Remove the power steering lines at the alternator bracket.
Remove the alternator.
Label and disconnect the ignition wires from the spark plugs and wire retainers on the intake plenum.
Remove the ignition assembly and the EVAP canister purge solenoid together.
Fig. 14: View of the intake manifold and related components
Disconnect the upper engine wiring harness connectors at the following components:
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Idle Air Control (IAC)
Fuel Injectors
Coolant temperature sensor
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor
Tag and disconnect the vacuum lines from the following components:
Vacuum modulator
Fuel pressure regulator
PCV valve
Disconnect the MAP sensor from upper intake manifold.
Remove the upper intake plenum mounting bolts and lift off the plenum.
Disconnect the fuel lines from the fuel rail and bracket.
Install engine support fixture special tool J 28467-A or an equivalent.
Remove the right side engine mount.
Remove the power steering mounting bolts and support the pump out of the way without disconnecting the power steering lines.
Disconnect the coolant inlet pipe from the outlet housing.
Remove the coolant bypass hose from the water pump and the cylinder head.
Disconnect the upper radiator hose at thermostat housing.
Remove the thermostat housing.
Remove both rocker arm covers.
Remove the lower intake manifold bolts. Make sure the washers on
the four center bolts are installed in their original locations.
When removing the valve train components they should be kept in order for installation the original locations.
Remove the rocker arm retaining nuts or bolts and extract the rocker arms and pushrods.
Remove the intake manifold from the engine. Remove and discard the gasket.
Using a suitable scraper, clean gasket material from all mating
surfaces. Remove all excess RTV sealant from front and rear ridges of
cylinder block
To install:
Place a 0.12 inch (3mm) bead of RTV, on each ridge, where the front and rear of the intake manifold contact the block.
Using a new gasket, place the intake manifold on the engine.
Install the pushrods in their original locations. Coat the pushrods with prelube.
The intake pushrods are marked yellow (5
3
/4 inch long) and the exhaust are green (6 inches long).
Make sure the pushrods are properly seated in the valve lifters and
rocker arms.
Position the rocker arms in there original locations and tighten
to specifications. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section.
Install lower the intake manifold attaching bolts. Apply sealant
12345739 (or equivalent thread locking compound) to the threads of
bolts. Tighten the vertical bolts first then the diagonal bolts to 115
inch lbs. (13 Nm).
Install the front rocker arm cover.
Install the thermostat housing.
Connect the upper radiator hose to the thermostat housing.
Fasten the coolant inlet pipe to thermostat housing.
Connect coolant bypass pipe at the water pump and cylinder head.
Install the power steering pump in the mounting bracket.
Loosely install the serpentine belt.
Connect the right side engine mount.
Remove the special engine support tool.
Fasten the fuel lines to fuel rail and bracket.
Install the upper intake manifold and tighten the mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Install the MAP sensor.
Connect the upper engine wiring harness connectors to the related components removed earlier.
Connect the vacuum lines to the PCV, vacuum modulator and fuel pressure regulator.
Install the EVAP canister purge solenoid and ignition assembly.
Install the alternator assembly.
Connect the power steering line to the alternator bracket.
Install the serpentine belt.
Connect the spark plug wires to the spark plugs and intake plenum wire retainer.
Install the EGR pipe to the exhaust manifold.
Attach the control cables to the throttle body lever and upper intake plenum mounting bracket.
Install air intake assembly and top half of the air cleaner assembly.
Install the brake vacuum pipe.
Fill the cooling system.
Connect the negative battery cable, then start the vehicle and verify that there are no leaks.
Does this vehicle have a 3.1 or 3.4L motor. If so they commonly have intake manifold gaskets failures. This leads to coolant leaking, usually at the corners of the intake manifold and in some instances leaking into the oil. Look for signs of coolant leaking at the corners of the intake manifold and check the engine oil for coolant.
remove the exhaust manifold
remove 2- 8mm bolts at coolant pipe flange
now the coolant pipe that runs under the oil pan remove the bolt at the front of the oil pan lower the pipe down
t-stat is in the top of that pipe at the flange
the weakest link from water entering engine is intake manifold losing its torque. their are four water ports right next to valve ports. two in front two at rear of intake manifold. they warp fairly easy.so check before re installing
It is running like it is missing on one cylinder, not bad just a miss. But will run all coolant out burning and dripping from tailpipe in 30 mins or so
I was losing coolant via exhaust manifold. I found the leak to be from a pipe that runs from somewhere near the thermostat housing all the way to the exhaust manifold. The problem is no one of the 6 mechanics I have visited including the dealership knew what was pipe for.
Anyway, the dealership found it in their data base charts and told me it costs $116. I am waiting for the engine to cool down and going to take a shot on this by taking it out and see where the leak coming from, is it the connections or the pipe itself. If is the pipe, I think I'll be luck to find someone to braze it for me. If it is the connections, one of them is replaceable the other one, then I am up **** creek without the paddles.
Antifreeze in exhaust pipe
Hole about the size of silver dollar
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