Sunroof n windows dont work

All the windows? If yes. Master switch must be bad.

bad fuse ?

check the 25 A breaker (PWR WDO) in fuse block I/P
if the driver power window is working your breaker is ok
check terminal B of the connector 2( pink wire) of the sunroof control module for 12 volts. check terminal D connector 2 of the sunroof control module(black wire) for a good ground. If the sunroof does not work with the switch you could jumper the power to the motor. You could try jumping terminal B to terminal A ( dark green wire) and jumping terminal D to terminal C (dark blue). If the sunroof goes the wrong way, change terminal B to terminal C and terminal D to terminal A. If it doesnot work the motor is dead.

what is extra power, what is C/S???

ever seen a voltmeter. for $10 at walfart. end guessing
discover volts. put volts in you life.
the battery is 12.6vdc charged, is it ?(rested volts)
do you get 12vdc to the motor, active.?????
i bet not. ! i bet like 6v based on "extra power, statment" Hot wired is the correct word. hot wired. all motors can be tested hot wired.

and the point of voltage drop is BAD> (resistive)
its that easy.

at the low voltage of the motor, pins, backup on the wire
point by point and when it goes to 12v active , 1inch from here, is bad wire, connector or switch,.
its RESISTIVE> and bad.

this is called voltage drop testing, google that for zillion hits

I think you may have burnt out the control module.

these should be the correct wire colors
light blue wire and a white wire drivers side
brown/white wire and puple white passanger side
meter these wires at the drivers side switch these wires should meter +12 volts in on direction either up or down and -12 volts in the other direction either up or down
Example: put the red probe on the light blue wire and the black probe on the white wire throw the switch in the up direction you shpuld get a reading of +12 volts and if you throw the switch in the down position you should get -12 volts. if the switch is in the nuteral position it wont give out voltage.
if voltage is not present in when you flip the switch then the switch is bad and you will need to replace it.
if voltage is present your motor or motors transmission is bad. sometimes the motor is connected to the transmission and when swaping out the motor you have to swap out the transmission too. most of the times you can seperate these two.
the reason you window will go down and not up might be beacuse the wieght of the window pulls the window down but the transmission is broken and the motor alone cannot lift the window up.
hope this helps.

Cavity Fuse Description
1) 15 Amp Blue Horn Relay, Power Sunroof
Relay, Power Window Relay
2) 10 Amp Red Rear Fog Lights (Export Only)
3) 20 Amp Yellow Cigar Lighter
4) 10 Amp Red Headlight Low Beam Right
5) 10 Amp Red Headlight Low Beam Left
6) 20 Amp Yellow Body Control Module/Power Door Locks
7 )10 Amp Red Left Park Light/Left Tail Lamp/License Plate Lamp
8) Spare
9) 10 Amp Red Right Park Light/RightTail Lamp/License Plate Lamp/Cluster
10) Spare Cavity Fuse Description
11) 15 Amp Blue Flasher
12) 15 Amp Blue Stop Lights
13) 10 Amp Red Body Control Module/CMTC/Cluster/Pass. Airbag On,Off Indicator, Auto Daylight
Mirror/Light Bar Switch (Renegade Only)
14) 10 Amp Red PDC Fuel Pump/AC Clutch,
Starter Relay/Engine
Controller/Transmission
Controller (Diesel Only)
15) Spare
16) 20 Amp Yellow Power Outlet (Rear)
17) 15 Amp Blue Rear Wiper
18) 20 Amp Yellow Radio Choke & Relay
Cavity Fuse Description
19 20 Amp Yellow
Frt Fog Lights/Trailer Tow
Stop and Turn Lights
20 Spare
21 10 Amp Red Radio
22 20 Amp Yellow
Power Sunroof Relay/
Antenna Module (Export
Only)
23 Spare
24 10 Amp Red PDC Blower Motor
25 10 Amp Red Heated Seat Switches/HVAC
Control Head/Trailer Tow
Battery Charge
26 10 Amp Red Headlight High Beam Right
27 10 Amp Red Headlight High Beam Left
28 Spare
29 10 Amp Red Heated Mirrors/Rear Window
Defroster Indicator
Cavity Fuse Description
30 15 Amp Blue Heated Seat Module
31 Spare
32 10 Amp Red Wiper Switch/Front and
Rear Wipers
33 10 Amp Red SKIM Module/Data Link
Connector
34 15 Amp Blue Body Control Module/
Cluster/Interior Lights,
Hands Free Module/Radio/
CMTC/ITM Module & Siren
(Export Only)
35 Spare
36 10 Amp Red Airbag Control Module/
Occupation Classification
Module (Right Front Seat)
37 10 Amp Red Airbag Control Module
38 10 Amp Red ABS Controller/Shifter Assembly
39 10 Amp Red Hazard Flasher (Turn
Signals)/Backup Lamp
Switch (Manual Transmission
Only)/Transmission Range
Switch (Automatic Transmis

that truck should have fuseable links down by the engine starter in the harness they are probably burned probe the wires by the passenger side rear of the head see if they have 12 volts red 12 gauge wire or a yellow 12 gauge wire . hope this helps

go to any auto parts store and ask for a 12 volt test light, it has a bulb inside and a pointed end like an ice pick, u attach one end to a good ground and then probe wires for power, when u have a hot wire with 12 volts the light in the handle will shine on. They cost about $6.00 at Kragen I think.

trace the two wires by analyzing which power are you missing...

run a wire from the positive of the battery and put the red wire of the volt meter to it and place the black wire of the meter to the black that goes to the motor.

if there is 12 volts, you have a negative terminal to the motor.

if you dont have, then you dont have the negative terminal to the motor.

next transfer the wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the negative terminal of the battery.

now put the bllack wire of the meter to the wire and test the red /or blue wire that goes to the motor.

it should have a reading of 12 volts.

if there is no reading , then there is no positive 12 volt present on the blue/red wire.

from these test, you can know which wire does not have the power.

that is what you are missing..

tnx 4 using fixya,

cheers,

drcool


p.s.

you could have just missed the black wire to be screwed on the housing of the blower motor.