I am leaking power steering fluid do I need the cylinoid replaced on the racket pinion steering

look for split in the hard line where fluid is leaking. If you see split, change the line only. make sure power steering reservoir is filled and rack and pinion is full (charge with steering wheel left/right motion). You should be able to remove wheel and inside wheel panel to see power steering fluid shooting out of any hole. There is hydraulic pressure on the lines.

No, the power steering is entirely a separate and sealed system, wholly external to the engine. The power steering pump pushes the fluid through a high pressure hose into the rack and pinion-the steering gear mounted below and behind the engine-and holds pressure within the rack that enables power assisted steering. At the same end where the power steering fluid hose enters the gear will be a fitting for a return line back to the fluid reservoir. These two hoses are usually routed close together at least part of the way, some may even be held together with brackets. Leaks could develop at the pump, the fluid reservoir, or the two hoses to and from the rack and pinion, or the seals inside the rack and pinion may have failed. You should be able to find the leak-it will only leak to the outside-to check the rack and pinion for leaks, right where your tie rods come out of the gear and go to the wheels for steering, will be a small rubber boot encasing the tie rod and the end of the rack assembly-on both ends is a boot and a tie rod-peel back the rubber boot from the gear ass\'y, it should be dry. If a lot of fluid, the seals in the rack and pinion are gone. It will have to be replaced.
Hopefully you will find a leaking hose or fractured reservoir, but keep looking, air flow may be blowing the leaking fluid back and under the car. Good luck, hope it\'s not the rack and pinion.

The servo unit on the steering has failed . Look inside the engine bay for oil leaks - if none are present then the entire steering rack will have to be replaced - the internal seals have failed.

If your rack and pinion steering unit is leaking power steering fluid, you most likely have blown a seal in the unit. These are gennerally non-repaiable. Replace the rack and pinion unit. Not an easy job, but an intermediate knowledge home mechanic can do it.

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

As a first course of action I strongly suggest that you fill the power steering reservoir with power steering fluid. It may be out that's why it steers hard than usual. You may have a power steering leakage too so I strongly suggest that you replace worn out steering hoses and it's wise to check the rack and pinion if it has leak. If it has then the oil seals of the rack and pinion will need replacement.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

If that's the case then the oil seals of the rack and pinion should be replaced. If the seals are worn out it tends to leak and can definitely feel a loss of power. If it still leaks even after the replacement then the rack and pinion should be replaced.

There are instances that after oil seal replacement it still leaks it's because that the rack and pinion has severe damage.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

If the line from the power steering pump to the rack and pinion is leaking, replace it.

If the rack and pinion is leaking replace it.

If the power steering pump itself is leaking, then replace it.

Which section is leaking?

yeah if you ran it gry before its best to start fresh,replace the rack an pinion its all one piece the part should be any where from 150 to 220 labor ranging from 180 to 300 yout looking at anywhere from 500.00 up

This is a very common issue with this car.The problem of the Ford Taurus spewing powersteering fluid out of the cap is caused by a loose nut on the passenger side of the steering rack. This not only allows fluid to leak past and fill the rubber boots up on the tie rods/steering rack, (the right hand side fills too, because of an air vent equalizer tube that connects both sides), but it also allows the system to **** air which causes the foaming and spewing from the pumps cap/dip stick.

The cure is to jack up and secure the car, remove the passenger front wheel.
There is a rubber accordian style boot on the tie rod end. Use a super long flat screwdriver to pry under the far side clamp that secures it to the inner part of the rack and break it off. Now use a pliers to squeeze the smaller clamp on the side closest to you and slide it off and all the way to the end towards you.

Slide the whole rubber boot as far as you can towards you so you can see the large round nut that is inside the end of the rack. You'll know this is the problem when fluid pours out of the boot.
The tie rod goes through the center of this nut. The nut has four holes around it on the face of it. I assume they used a spanner tool to install this at the factory, but there's no room for a tool while the rack is on the car, so you'll have to manufacture a long instrument yourself.
I purchased about a 3 foot long narrow metal rod from a hardware store, then I used an angle grinder to shape one end of it into a blunt cone shape that would fit into one of the holes. It's awkward to do, but using it on all angles avoiding the brake line and wheel rotor you can tighten this nut by hitting the rod with a hammer. The nut will turn about 1/8th of a turn, then re-angle your rod into the next hole above the one you just did tightening the nut to the right (clockwise).

The nut on my car was loose by three full turns. The driver's side of the rack has a different setup, you don't need to try that side, the passenger side is the only side that is affected. Once you have this nut good and tight, I used a zip tie to clamp the big end of the rubber boot back on the rack, then pushed the rest of the accordian boot back into it's original place and put the smaller compression clamp back on the end closest to you.

Put your wheel back on, fill your ps pump back up with fluid and start the car, turning the wheel back and forth to purge the air from the system. It'll still be foamy for a while, but keep shutting the car off, let the bubbles disperse, add more fluid if needed, etc.
I learned this from another forum where many, many posters had tried this and it worked for them also.
Good luck!

When the pump heats up it will quit working cause the pump on the inside is not pumping fluid to the rack pinion or your racket pinion is going bad. Have you checked the fluid level?