There is a company which makes a bracket with another idler pulley on it for replace the A/c compressor. I believe it costs between $60 and $90 Dollars. Problem with replacing the belt with a smaller, shorter belt by eliminating a pulley is the RPM of the Alternator and the Power steering pump.
To make an explanation, if 1 loop of the original belt turns the Alternator once every 8 inches, then a 48 inch belt will turn the Alternator 6 times a cycle. A shorter belt will make more cycles around the crankshaft pulley, the Alternator and so forth.
This will increase wear. The Fan blade will spin faster and you can get less assist from Power steering if it is speed sensitive. Power steering may or may not be better at Parking and will surely flatten out more quickly at higher speeds resulting in high steering effort.
Without the conversion pulley, the Geometry for the spring loaded idler pulley may not keep enough tension on the shorter belt for proper tension.
But to measure for eliminating the pulley, just slip off the old belt and get a string with a loop on 1 end. Press down on the spring-loaded idler pulley and place the string around each pulley and then pull the end of the string through the loop until it is snug. Pinch off the position with your finger to where it seems that the tensioner is applying tension with more tension possible for a stretched belt.
Temporarily slide the end of the string off, secure a removeable knot, and then let the string handle some of the tension in the idler. Basically you are making a template for the correct belt length. If all looks well, the string can be fit on a belt sizer or just measure it. Remember the buy a belt with the same number of grooves.
Another thing to remember is the car will still try to adjust the engine idle for the A/C, sometimes even in the Defrost function, because that is how they are made. So you may have idling problems without the A/c.
I hope my solution has helped you.
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