if it always reads full you have an open on the signal wire, theopen cand either be the sender itself or the wire to the sender. to verify if the wire to the sender is good ground the sender wire at the pump. This should make the gauge read empty. If it reads empty the sender is faulty and can be serviced seperately from the pump. If it does not read empty when grounding the wire at the pump you have an open wire from the pump to the cluster. iring is known to corrode on these vehicles under the scuff plates (plastic cover in the door area that is at the edge of the carpet) as well as under the front fender splash shields.if it always reads full you have an open on the signal wire, theopen cand either be the sender itself or the wire to the sender. to verify if the wire to the sender is good ground the sender wire at the pump. This should make the gauge read empty. If it reads empty the sender is faulty and can be serviced seperately from the pump. If it does not read empty when grounding the wire at the pump you have an open wire from the pump to the cluster. iring is known to corrode on these vehicles under the scuff plates (plastic cover in the door area that is at the edge of the carpet) as well as under the front fender splash shields.
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The first thing you need to do is have the computer scanned for trouble codes to narrow down the possible causes. But that would require a code reader or scanner. Have you checked fuel pressure with a gauge ? Are you getting spark to the plugs ? Because of the moan from the pump, there's a good chance the pump has failed.
Does it work when you turn the A/C on? The fan always kicks on with the A/C, if it doesn't look for a blown fuse. Or possibly a fan motor burnt up. If it works with the A/C but doesn't when the engine is too warm, it is probably the temperature sensor.
If you ground the wire from the gauge to the sender with the ignition on the gauge should go past full. If it doesn't you'll have to trace that circuit all the way back to the gauge. If that circuit is OK you may have a bad gauge or no power to it. If the gauge does go past full when you ground the fuel gauge wire your sending unit may not be grounded. I'm assuming there is a float on the sending unit.
It could be as simple as a loose connection at the tank on the fuel gauge sending unit, or a loose grounding terminal nearby. Check to see if you can access the wiring without dropping the gas tank...possibly inside the trunk.
locate the transmission dipstick. should be near the back drivers sde of the engine compartment. the car should be at operating temperature. pull the stick out, wipe clean, and replace. remove the stick and eye the level against the gauge on the stick
if it always reads full you have an open on the signal wire, theopen cand either be the sender itself or the wire to the sender. to verify if the wire to the sender is good ground the sender wire at the pump. This should make the gauge read empty. If it reads empty the sender is faulty and can be serviced seperately from the pump. If it does not read empty when grounding the wire at the pump you have an open wire from the pump to the cluster. iring is known to corrode on these vehicles under the scuff plates (plastic cover in the door area that is at the edge of the carpet) as well as under the front fender splash shields.
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