Problem starting at cold temperature, but idling okay once temperature normal. Suspect problem with fuel injection system, possibly a cold switch
SOURCE: missfire
Locate you computer (right front kick panel) and tap on it with a pen while the car idles... Also flex it back and forth with your hands to see if the car runs rough or quits... You may need a new one.
SOURCE: 2000 Nissan Altima temperature gauge and heater problem
sounds like you need to replace the thermostat.
SOURCE: My 1998 Peugeot 406 starts okay when cold but
I have 1996 Peugeot 406 (1.8 16v) and it's ignition coil pack was broken and the starting was difficult when the car was warm.
SOURCE: 1986 Honda Accord DX - too high idle on cold start
1986-1989 Honda Accord with Carburetor have a very bad habit that is little known even by most mechanics but easily fixed at home. The vacuum port on the choke opener that is connected to the intake manifold and both vacuum ports on the fast idle unloader get plugged up with nasty hard carbon almost as hard as metal. When this happens the choke sticks closed and the idle sticks on fast idle when the engine is cold and nobody can figure out why. All you have to do is attach a small drill bit to the end of a flexible socket-driver extension and put it in a variable speed drill that will let you run it real slow and carefully drill out the vacuum ports that are plugged. After they are nice and clean use a vacuum pump tester to make sure the choke opener and fast idle unloader are working before putting it all back together. It's amazing how much better the car runs after cleaning out those ports.
SOURCE: mercedes e230 1998. cold starting.
Mercedes has a cold start valve to spray extra fuel to assist the ignition when the temperature is cold. This is the problem with the cold start valve is not opened when it needed. There are 2 possible causes:
1- The valve is bad.
2- The coolant temperature sensor is bad.
The valve part is expensive and labor is not cheap. The first economic way to address is to replace the coolant temperature sensor. This sensor gives a different resistance reading as temperature changed. When it is bad, it give an erratic reading at cold temperature so the ECM could not recognize to give a signal to open the Cold start valve.
Following list of possible faults should help:-
Coolant sensor - engine is signaled as being 'cold' all the
time, not just at start up, causing ECU to set longer injection cycle
? Low coolant level can prevent sensor being able to detect coolant
temperature
? Faulty 'open' thermostat allows coolant to circulate without regulation
and perhaps prevents the engine from achieving normal running temperatures.
FPR - broken diaphragm allows fuel to enter
the vacuum line and then into the inlet manifold. Additional source of fuel
makes the fuel air mix richer causing a faster and lumpy idle.
Vacuum leak - 'high oxygen' signal
from O2 sensor causes ECU to set longer injection cycle.
O2 sensor - 'high oxygen' sensor error
causes ECU to set longer fuel injection cycle
MAF - 'over reads' in error the amount of air
entering causing ECU to set longer fuel injection cycle
IAT - 'under reads' in error the temperature of incoming air causing ECU to set longer fuel injection cycle
Possible faults:-
Coolant sensor - engine is signaled as being 'cold' all the
time, not just at start up, causing ECU to set longer injection cycle
? Low coolant level can prevent sensor being able to detect coolant
temperature
? Faulty 'open' thermostat allows coolant to circulate without regulation
and perhaps prevents the engine from achieving normal running temperatures.
To check put a voltmeter across the coolant sensor connections and there should be a difference between the engine being cold and hot. If not the sensor is faulty. Check sensor connections and wiring.
FPR - broken diaphragm allows fuel to enter
the vacuum line and then into the inlet manifold. Additional source of fuel
makes the fuel air mix richer causing a faster and lumpy idle. To check the FPR have the engine at idle and pull the vacuum line off it. If the FPR is healthy the engine will pick up in revs for a few seconds and then settle back to a very lumpy idle. If fuel dribbles out of the vacuum line then replace the FPR.
Vacuum leak - 'high oxygen' signal
from O2 sensor causes ECU to set longer injection cycle. Check all hoses and connections with the inlet manifold. Check the inlet manifold to block junction and around injector ports. A small squirt of WD40 on suspect areas will cause the engine to momentarily pick up in revs if there is a leak.
O2 sensor - 'high oxygen' sensor error
causes ECU to set longer fuel injection cycle. A voltmeter across the sensor pins should show above 200mV (note this is AC voltage). Check again when hot as the sensor can fail progressively and lose voltage as it gets hotter.
MAF - 'over reads' in error the amount of air
entering causing ECU to set longer fuel injection cycle. Located in the collar next to the air filter box on the air ducting. Make sure the MAF is clean, do not touch, just spray it with electrical cleaner when it is off the car. The MAF has three wires (0volts; 5 volts supply; signal). Check that the signal voltage varies according to engine speed (air being sucked in). If not change it
IAT - 'under reads' in error the temperature
of incoming air causing ECU to set longer fuel injection cycle. often co-located with the MAF but can be nearer the throttle on the air ducting. Has two wires. Unplug the IAT from the ducting and check that its resistance changes when you blow on it. Give it clean with electrical cleaner spray. If not change it
Hope the above check list helps.
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