W124 230E problem starting cold

SOURCE: Rough idle, Car shakes, sputters and misfires upon acceleration

It sounds like you may have a problem feeding the fuel to your engine, I had the same problem with my 89 RS. All the 1989 model's fuel systems were recalled. I think you may need a new fuel pump. The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank in the rear of the car right under the rear axle. The fuel pump itself isn't too expensive, but with other small parts such as the electrical harness upgrade and fuel filter and the labor you should be looking somewhere in the $500 range. I hope this helps.

SOURCE: engine surging , won't accelerate over 3000 rpm ! IS chocking is like is not enogh gas

Do you have a check engine light with this?
What can happen is a code has caused the engine to protect itself. For example in a low coolant situation when the engine heats up too much, the engine can Knock causing an Engine Knock fault.
If that occurs you will recieve a fault for each of these items. Fill the engine with coolant. Then reseting the code will let your engine accelerate normally.

SOURCE: Car Overheats after 12 to 15 minutes of running. Temperature decreaes when I accelerate.

your fan is the problem...it's not turning fast enough to cool the engine off. I need more info on what type of fan you have....elec fan or a clutch fan?

SOURCE: 1989 Chevrolet C1500 with 5.7L V-8. Engine dies

fuel pump is working but when accelerating it doesnt pump enough fuel up to the engine then it will fall on its face if it is a electric pump you may have to drop the tank if it is inside and replace it if it is on the engine replace it thats what is exactly wrong with it

SOURCE: 1986 Honda Accord DX - too high idle on cold start

1986-1989 Honda Accord with Carburetor have a very bad habit that is little known even by most mechanics but easily fixed at home. The vacuum port on the choke opener that is connected to the intake manifold and both vacuum ports on the fast idle unloader get plugged up with nasty hard carbon almost as hard as metal. When this happens the choke sticks closed and the idle sticks on fast idle when the engine is cold and nobody can figure out why. All you have to do is attach a small drill bit to the end of a flexible socket-driver extension and put it in a variable speed drill that will let you run it real slow and carefully drill out the vacuum ports that are plugged. After they are nice and clean use a vacuum pump tester to make sure the choke opener and fast idle unloader are working before putting it all back together. It's amazing how much better the car runs after cleaning out those ports.