Is it the standard way (using bleed screw with bottle cap on) or is there a "special" procedure?
SOURCE: overheating problem on a 1998 BMW 318ti
Perform a liquid block test (with the bottle of fluid over the radiator mouth.) If the blue liquid turns yellow or clear, you have hydrocarbons entering the cooling system (usually via head gskt.) If not, you have ruled out a costly repair.
Sounds like it overheats pretty easily, without t-stat! This block testing liquid is cheap, and will verify a suspected leaking head gasket without lengthy diagnosis. Hope it's better news, but good luck!
Tater Todd
SOURCE: can't bleed coolant system on Audi A3!
In my experience with Audis, after any job requiring changing/draining the coolant the car ideally needs to be driven. With the coolant topped up to max drive the car, keep the revs up and shake the car with steering and over bumps where possible. Whatever you do make sure you take at least 2 litres of water/coolant with you, as as soon as the air lock goes, the level drops a lot and quickly. Also keep an eye on the temp gauge and avoid letting it go much over 90 degrees (over 90 on the gauge usually means its well into the hundreds) When you get consistant hot air through the heater, at idle, the level should of settled. If this doesnt work you may have thermostat issues or a blockage. Good luck, let me know how you get on.
SOURCE: i got 2001 bmw 330i
if you replaced the thermostat thats actually connected to the engine and not the thermostat thats underneath the expansion tank/reservoir, I would recommend filling the expansion tank to the top remove bleeder screw and allow the vehicle to sit keeping coolant filled to the top of reservoir, once you feel there is no more air in system reinstall bleeder screw and correct fluid level in expansion tank. There are a couple different tools that are used to properly bleed the system. one tool you can pull a vacuum on the system and when the vacuum is released coolant is pulled back into system. At the same time you could have a blown head gasket. There is also a tool out there to check for combustion gases in your cooling system which would be a signs of a blown head gasket. Another recommendation is to pick up a cooling system pressure tester (can be picked up as a loan a tool @ autozone) usually pressurizing the system will help to remove air pockets
SOURCE: looking for procedure to properly bleed an audi A4
You didn't say what year the car is or what other diagnostics you've done lately...My guess is the radiator core is plugged...If you want to tackle it yourself, buy a Chiltons repair manual at AutoZone or NAPA stores ($25). I suspect you'll have to order the manual.
Good Luck
SOURCE: I put too much coolant into my 2001 BMW 330i and need help!!!
Look on the upper hose. There should be a plastic srew and you should have a srew right next to the cap. I had these on my 2000 528i. Hopefully you did not blow up the coolant bottle which is usually the weakest link on these. Blow into the the radiator thru the radiator cap to see if it holds pressure..
If it doesnt then you will need to replace something first. If everything looks ok open the screws, the lowest one first then the upper one. That is if you have 2.
Then you may need to run the engine up to temp then shut the car off and let it cool off. Each time open the bottle and check the level. You may need to do this a couple times or more.
First coulple times you drive the car have some coolant with you in case it starts to overheat. Keep an eye on the temp. Especially in the first several miles.
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