Replace rear wheel hub assembly
SOURCE: Need wheel bearing replacement
unfortunately your bearing assembly is a sealed unit and you have to purchase it as a complete part. they do have a way to change out the bearing at a shop, however the labor cost involved would most certainly be alot more than a replacement it's self. I have come across this problem many times and it's not as easy to switch them out as you have been told. i hope this helps. (note) to repalce them on your vehicle if you don't do the work yourself have a small shop do it not a dealer shop. the cost will be alot less. the labor time should be no more than 2 hrs. that is roughly about no more than 120- 150 dollars for the labor . if the place you take it to quotes you way more than that take it somewhere else... good luck please rate this
SOURCE: Replacing the rear rotors on a 2003 E320
So this is what it takes to replace rear brake rotors on a 2003 Mercedes E320;
1) open the bonnet (hood) of the car and loosen/remove the cap off of the brake fluid resevior.
2) remove outer spring clamp from brake assembly (it clips in to the iner edge of the holes of the caliper).
3)using a 7 MM allen wrench, remove the brake caliper.
4) using 18 MM box wrench, remove the caliper housing assembly off of the wheel hub.
5) using a star wrench, unscrew the rotor locking screw from the rotor
6) squirt some liquid wrench on the rotor hub and knock the rotor with a hammer to work the liquid wrench in.
7) using the same hammer, knock the rotor off the hub.
8) using a metal file, lightly file old residue off of the hub and place the new rotor on the hub.
9) set the hub by screwing in the lug nuts and then screw in the hub locking screw using the star wrench, then remove the lug nuts.
10) reinstall the caliper housing assembly onto the wheel hub using the 18 MM box wrench.
11) push back the brake claiper piston to its home position and install the inner brake pad (the one with the snap clips)
12) insert the outer brake pad in the claper housing assembly.
13) slide on the caliper housing with the inner brake pad in place (over the outer brake pad) and screw in the caliper screw rods using the 7 MM allen wrench
14) on the right wheel brakes, DO NOT FORGET to slide in the brake sensor (the one with the black connector) and connect it to the connector on the caliper housing.
15) be sure to reinsert the spring clamp onto the outer brake assembly to set the assembly squarely onto the wheel (there should be no wiggle in the brake assembly after the spring clamps are installed).
16) finally mount the wheels.
17) you can bleed the brakes at this point to release any trapped air (which is unlikely) but be sure to pump the brakes after starting the car BUT BEFORE MOVING IT to re-preassurize the brake system before driving the car.
17) ONE WEEK LATER - recheck brake assembly to ensure all is okay and brake fluid.
This proposed solution is for a 2003 Mercedes Benz E320 and NOT a 2005 model as stated by the limited option selection provided by FIXYA.com when initially describing the problem.
SOURCE: 2001 monte carlo ss. Rear wheel bearings making a grinding noise
It is pretty easy, there is not much labor involved if it has anti-lock brakes in the rear you will also have to un-plug the wire harness attached to hubs.
SOURCE: How to replace front wheel bearings on a 2001 Ford Escape 4X4
try "autozone.com" or your local library for diagrams and step by step instructions
SOURCE: Replacing front wheel hub assembly on 2006
Caliper mount bolts are 74 ft/lbs
Driveshaft axle nut is 177 ft/lbs
Hub and bearing mounting bolts are 133 ft/lbs
Testimonial: "The info on the torgue specs was very helpful. I couldn't find it anywhere. Thanks a bunch!"
Just replaced both of mine two weeks ago. (I'm at 130K miles)
A couple of things...
- You will need to disassemble your rear brakes (calipers and disks)
- My wheel caps were rusted on so I had to destroy them by using a screwdriver to chisel them open (like you would do with a tin can) Try to pry them off if you can. I am planning on replacing them in order to save the threads on the spindle from rusting. ($5 each at dealer)
- I had a slide hammer handy in order to pull one of the hubs off the spindle. They were rusted on pretty bad on mine. One of the hubs was destroyed in the process of pulling.
- Re-used the original nuts. They are compression nuts (same type as on the fron driveshafts) but they came off no problem so I just reused them. You might want to have one handy in case you wreck the old nuts. (They range from $6 to $8 each at the dealer)
- 32mm axle nut socket
- Use the socket to tap the new hub in if required. Don't beat too ******* it though...
- Chiltons suggests torquing them down to 170 lb-ft (if I remember correctly)
Noticeably less noise now when I'm cruising at 40 mph. I used to have some kind of cyclic harmonic grinding going on from back ther that seemed to be speed related.
The new hubs also seems to have improved my "shimmy" under braking condition. Although, I can't say for sure if it was the hub itself that was the problem or the fact that I relubed my rear brake pins in the process of doing the hub.
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