When making right turns from stop, or when driving 40mph around a curve that travels to the right, the rear tire on passenger side squeals. When at a Full Stop and then turing Right, tire squeals. Normal starting speed from stop--no "gunning."
SOURCE: Noise coming from front of car
It sounds exactly like a wheel bearing problem.The right side its seems would be the problem. When you turn right it puts more pressure on the bad bearing making it louder. I would suggest replacing both. If on is gone the other one isn't far off. Hope this helps
SOURCE: Hyundai 1998 Elantra Growling sound from front
You have a bad front wheel bearing on the left side because you say when you turn right the noise goes away, because when you turn right the suspension lifts up on the opposite side and releives some weight on the bearing causing it to quiet down. No it is NOT a DIY repair unless you have some pretty extensive tools. the quickest easiest and least expensive way to fix this is to go to a wrecking yard and buy a steering knuckle for the left. it will have a wheel bearing already pressed into it and all you have to do is replace the whole thing and you are done. do not open any brake lines or hoses to do this job just gently press the brake caliper piston back about 1/2" so it will fit over the brake pads when you reinstall.
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SOURCE: rear brakes (driver-side) squeal after replacing rotors and pads
you need to grease the metal clips at the top and bottom of the pads (dont get grease on the rotor or pad though) and also spray some "disc brake quiet" on the back of the pads. it comes in a red can and the spray that comes out is like sticky red paint. do those 2 things and the squeals will be gone.
SOURCE: New rear brake pads on drivers side smells like it is burning
If you smell burning - the caliper might not be opening properly.. Break might be sticking..
Jack it up.. The tire should spin freely..
If not - try bleedingthe lines real good..
PS - one should never use cheep pads..
Hope this helps !!
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SOURCE: Front drive noise when turning left/right
the C V JOINTS have hadit.that is the constant velocity jointsare badly worn and need replacing youdoit
2 Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and position the jack stands under the frame. Let the car down on the jack stands.
3 Grasp the tire on both sides and attempt to wobble it left and right; if there is any movement with no corresponding movement in the steering wheel, one or both tie rod ends are loose and need to be replaced. Have a helper wobble the tire while you slide under the car and observe the inner and outer tie rods ends. This is the link from the rack and pinion steering to the steering knuckle. Place a hand on the outer tie rod end as the tire is being moved; if you can feel freeplay, the outer joint needs to be replaced. Place a hand on the inner tie rod shaft; if you can feel it moving in and out with the movement of the tire, the inner tie rod is faulty.
4 Look at the tire for uneven wear indicating an alignment problem. Spin the tire slowly and look for flat spots, humps in the tread or wire protruding from the tread indicating a separated tire.
5 Grab the tire at the top and bottom and shake the tire in and out; if you can feel any freeplay, the hub bearing is bad and needs replacement.
6 Place the pry bar under the tire. Lift up and release several times; if the tire can be lifted with very little pressure the lower ball joint is bad and needs replacing.
7 Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Place your hand on the coil spring on the strut and have a helper turn the steering wheel to the left and right; if you can feel any grinding, the top bearing cap on top of the strut is defective and needs to be replaced.
8 Inspect the strut for leakage around the seals. Replace if they are leaking.
9 Inspect the brake pads and rotors for wear and replace as necessary.
10 Inspect the sway bar front bushing where it is mounted under the radiator and make sure it is in place. Inspect the sway bar links on the ends of the sway bar where they connect to the lower control arm. They consist of a long bolt with a series of rubber bushings held on to the lower control arm by a nut. Replace these if they are loose or have any worn parts. They are a major noise problem
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Results from Dealership Visit: Bearings: Was told if bearings were worn, I would feel and hear the problem. So it wasn't the bearings. They tested the car for the "squeal" noise and hear it. They said it was due to driving over one pavement and then another different pavement. . i.e., cement crosswalk and then paved asphalt. Alignment was slightly off. Tread wear measured 2/32 on inner and 5/32 on outer of front tires (both). Another issue / problem occurred when I took car home from dealer yesterday, it all of a sudden pulled to the right. Drove on left side of crown and it still pulled to right. I was told that they could align the front end in a few different ways. One being that the car would drive straight regardless of the road, and second, it could be adjusted you drive around sharp turns. But that last feature makes the tires wear out faster. I never heard of this. Thought there was only one spec that they follow for alignment of each vehicle.
FOUND THE ANSWER. . . Hyundai recalled the Equus on September 19 for a Strut replacement. I had them replaced, and I also put on two new front tires. After driving across country and back to CA (9,000 miles) I had the tread wear checked. All treads read the same. . . 9/32. Struts were the problem! Thanks to all for your help.
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