2003 Ford Escape drivers seat belt is locked, as in it won't pull out at all seems to be tension locked in place. Any quick fix for this?

the seat belt mechanism could be getting worn out. usually you would have to replace the seat belt retractor but try some WD-40 and see if that helps

On my 2016 Ford Escape the rear passenger seat folded down and would not hold back up the problem was that the seat belt buckle pivoted down below the level of the seat when I try to raise the back of the sheet the seat belt buckle would prevent it it ended up crushing the plastic on the seat belt buckle preventing it from working the hold the seat belt I was able to repair the seat belt buckle with a screwdriver regular Style and a cigarette lighter the soft in the plastic back up so it would stay in position

Below are 2 diagrams for you because the Escape came with 2 different engines for this year. The first diagram is for the 2.0 liter engine and the second picture is for the 3.0 litler engine. Now as far as an adjustment, there really isn't one. If there isn't enough tension and you are sure the belt is good and the correct size but still seems to be to loose, then you will need to replace the tensioner. I hope this helps.....

Probably no need to see an expensive mechanic. My seat belt warning light came on a few days ago when there were four people in the car and the rear seat belts weren't fastened (I thought that was why it lit up). However, the light came on and stayed on when I was the only person in the car. Logically, it suggested a bad connection somewhere, so I checked the connector under the passenger seat and made sure it was properly fastened together. I then sprayed a small amount of WD40 into the female clasps of both front seat belt connectors, clipped and unclipped the belts a few times and the light is now fine. Try it - it worked for my 2003 Escape.

No one can fix it!

Don't you find that odd?

You remove the plastic seat belt retractor covers,
on the floor by the "B" Piller

If you need to replace them, the retractors I mean, there
is a special GM Torx Driver Bit for seat belts

I would play around with them to see what the issues are

IF THEY HAVE AN AIR BAG INVOLVED e.g. SRS
System integrated into the seat belts,disconnect the battery
(before) you even think of going near the covers

Hey everyone--after searching in vain for an entire 10 days, and absolutely REFUSING to pay Ford's $100 diagnosis fee, and their $300 replacement suggestion ($400??), I decided to figure this out myself. And I did. Do the following to let loose the tension that has kept your seat stuck in the down position (though my truck is a 2008 Ford Escape, I have a strong feeling this is the case with any vehicle):

1. Remove the seat bottoms (which are folded forward and upward against the back of the front seats). To do this, find the bars that are bracketed into the floor. There may or may not be a little yellow lever on one of the two brackets. If so, flip it and slide the bar out. If it stops, pull the other side out. Doing this should allow you to completely remove the seat from the car. Repeat with other side.

Now you should have plenty of room to work. Move front seats forward, and you've got even more.

2. Remove your back seats entirely. (Sorry- it's a must.) For many, you will require either one or both of these:
One Torx T-50 socket to remove T-50 bolt (which bolts seat belt latches to the floor)
One Torx T-55 (which bolts the folding seat into the bracket that bolts seats to the floor).
One socket extension (tip: the extension gives you much more torque, and its easier to remove bolts) and
One a 5/8" socket. (See continuation after following tip.)

TIP: if you have a 40/60 split, you have to remove the 40 first! This will allow you room to move around the 60 seat and its stuck belt.

Continued:
Remove bolts that bolt bracket to car floor (this is the 40 seat). I believe there's two: 1 directly below the seat, and 1 that also bolts the 60 seat (you'll be using the 5/8" here)-- Don't hold me to it, though, as I've seen some different stuff. Pull seat out of the way to avoid potential damage. NOTE: THOSE BRACKETS ARE SHARP. WATCH THE LEATHER/SEAT MATERIAL-- AND YOUR HANDS.)

2. Remove bolts on the 60. Though the top part of your seat is down, you should be able to the bolt that keeps the bracket to the floor beneath where the seat cushion would be (and where the upper part of the seat is laying flat). A ratchet would probably be best for this since you can keep the socket in place and wind the thing completely out. I should say here that my seat couldn't have been tighter to the floor. If I got mine out, I'm sure you can, too.

Now here come the tricky, but verrrrry easy parts. They are vital.

1. Now that the brackets are off of the floor, the 60 seat should now be free-floating in your hands, but tethered by the T50 bolt that is keeping the seatbelt buckle to the floor. Remove it. Now you should be able to remove the seat altogether. I had to bring mine inside where it wasn't 15 degrees in my garage, but I believe you'll do these parts in the next five minutes. Do this next:

2. TIP the 60 SEAT UPRIGHT (just like it would if things were back to the normal operational mode). This is VITAL. If you cannot fix it with two or three tugs from here (don't waste more time than this-- the final part is coming), then do this next:

3. Find the latch on the back of the seat that locks onto the latch of the car. Using two gloved fingers (or tools), press the latch inward until it's in the LOCKED position (fooling it into thinking you've put it up and latched into into the truck bracket).
This should have also reset the button or lever that you used to unlock the seat in the first place. Now give your belt a tug. It should come loose like normal.

IMPORTANT NOTE: seatbelt tensioners rely on gravity (thing momentum during a crash) that locks the belt. If the seat is not sitting UPRIGHT (like in normal use mode), that mechanism is going to obey gravity if it is tilted backward or forward (which is why the seat got in the downward position to begin with) and lock.

That's it. Bolt the seats back in, and go buy yourself $400 worth of rewards.

get the code, but my guess is it\'s the seat belt pre-tensioner connectors. There is a TSB to replace them on both seats at the same time. Not a recall so not covered under warranty. Please rate highly if this helps.
TSB 05-17-11
RESTRAINT SYSTEM - SAFETY BELT BUCKLE AND PRETENSIONER DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) B1877 AND/OR B1881
FORD:
2001-2004 Escape

This article supersedes TSB 04-24-4 to update the service procedure.
ISSUE:
Some 2001-2004 Escape vehicles may exhibit an intermittent air bag lamp on and diagnostic trouble code (DTC) B1877 and/or B1881. This may be caused by a variation in the electrical continuity between the pins of the driver and/or passenger side wiring harness and the buckle pretensioner connector. If this condition were to occur, the air bag system remains fully functional.

ACTION:
Install a replacement harness connector kit ON BOTH the driver and passenger safety belt buckle pretensioners, even if the DTC is present for only one side. The kit includes improved connector halves to replace the existing connectors on both the body harness and the safety belt buckle pretensioner.
One kit is required per side (2 kits per vehicle). Refer to the instruction sheet included in the kit for complete repair procedure.


OPERATION

DESCRIPTION

TIME


051711A
2001-2004 Escape Install A Replacement Harness Connector On Both The Body Side And Safety Belt Buckle Pretensioner Harness For Both Driver And Passenger Safety Belt Buckle Pretensioners (Do Not Use With 14056D)
2.0 Hrs.

Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner (5)clockwise and remove the accessory drive belt.

Good day
What you have there is called a PYROTECHNICAL SEAT BELT TENSIONER, What it does is works with the air bag system. When the sensors reads a great drop in speed as in an crash this device goes off and puts tension onto the seat beat to bring the person in the seat as tight as possible into the seat.
Hope this helps.
Now if you are having problem with one of the seat belts there could be a problem with this device, I would take it to a quality person that works on the air bag system. If not the air bag system could be tripped and then you are into a lot of $$$$ to get it fix.
When you are trying to fine some one to fix or look at this ask him or her about the Pyrotechnical seat belt tensioner system if they can explain it to you then that's good if not keep looking.

Hope this helps you out please let me know how you make out

Cheers

I just want to know if there is any manual to disarm the lift gate and check for the problem. Currently my door is lock and cant open, how you force it to open?