1996 Isuzu Rodeo 2.6L wont start

SOURCE: 1992 Isuzu Rodeo Distributor wires 3.1L engine

Hi,
Isuzu seem to have complicated things by changing engines, firing orders and even direction of rotation! As you can see, they've numbered the cylinders the other way than the 3.2L.

The Firing sequence for the 3.1 (traditional distributor) 6 cylinder is as follows -



If you take the distributor cap off, there should be a "No.1" formed on the inside. Stick a lead on this before you put the cap back on and go from there.
As leads are different lengths, you may have to swap a few to find the best fit.

I think 2 of them will look out of place - but that's the way it's designed. Just make use of clips for holding them neatly.

Thanks for using Fixya.

SOURCE: Car getting too much fuel at spark plugs

Hello Velma!

It sounds like ther might be an intermittent ignition (spark) problem... when the plugs don't fire, they will get wet with fuel...
So check all of the ignition components, make sure there are no loose connections to the coils are plug wires.

It is also possible that there might be a problem in the fuel injection, such as an injector stuck open and continuously feeding fuel to its cylinder (which would show as only ONE plug being wet), or possibly a bad fuel pressure regulator, letting fuel pressure in the injector rail go too high and causing an over-rich mixture and engine flooding (symptomatic of ALL plugs being wet).

Once the engine is "flooded" it is sometimes hard to "clear" the engine with modern injection systems, but try this: Hold the accelerator to steadily to the floor while cranking --- DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL! --- This will allow the maximum amount of air to mix with the overage of fuel in the cylinders and help the engine to eliminate the excess without also adding too much back in...

If you still can't get it to fire off doing the above, then remove the fuel pump relay or fuse and repeat the above until the engine tries to run.... It will run briefly until it fuel starves and dies. Then replace whichever you removed and try starting again with fuel delivery back in service.

Velma, I would have answered this sooner, but I've been on a "road trip" and only recently got back home. If you still have problems, please post a comment describing as best you can the situation --- you have to be my eye, ears, nose, and hands in this long distance effort! Also let me know why the head gasket blew, if known... Racing or overheating? If this does help, please remember to rate my assistance --- your approval is my ONLY compensation for providing this help!

Thanks!
-WildBill

SOURCE: timing settings for a 1998 isuzu rodeo

You didn't say whether you had a V6 engine or a 4cyl. Here is the procedure for a V6.

It sounds like he moved the cam shaft independently of the crankshaft or other camshaft so you will need to do all these procedures:

1. Turn the crankshaft until the mark on the spocket is lined up with the mark on the oil pump housing (the mark is on the driver's side at 90 degrees to the sprocket itself).

2. Back off the crankshaft counterclockwise 1/8 turn to ensure the pistons aren't at top dead center. This gives the valves room to move without hitting the piston.

3. Turn the passenger's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place with the alignment mark on the camshaft pully is pretty close to being lined up with the mark on the engine head.

4. Turn the driver's side camshaft until it "jumps" into place but this won't be perfectly lined up with the mark but will be about an 1/8 turn off from the mark. Then line it up by hand.

5. The idler pulleys and tensioner pulleys should be installed on the engine but the tenioner pulley adjuster (it is a little cylinder with a rod coming out of it that is held in place by 2 bolts) should be removed.

6. Place the new belt on the crankshaft first. Be sure the arrows on the belt point in a clockwise direction. If you have a belt with lines and dots then the lines will line up with all markings that you have lined up together. The dots should line up at the 270 degree point on the crankshaft (opposite of the lines and the markings).

7. Loop the belt around the tensioner pulley, around the passenger's side cam, under the waterpump, around the driver's side cam, and finally around the idler pulley. Check all alignments.

8. Put the tesioner adjuster in a vise and squeeze it together until you can place a small drill bit or allen wrench through the holes to keep it compressed.

9. This is the tricky part. You will need to install the tensioner adjuster and that will require some moving of the belt to allow enough play to get the adjuster in place. This may move the passenger's side alignment. If so, you will need to try it again. I find that if you move passenger's side alignment mark clockwise by one tooth of the sprocket, then when you go to put the tensioner in place it lines up. You may find other tricks to overcome this challenge.

10. Once you think you have everything lined up. Use a wrench to turn the crankshaft sprocket 2 full turns. Listen closely and feel for any hard resistance as you do this to determine if the pistons are hitting the valves. If you believe they are hitting each other thenrepeat the adjustment procedure. Not doing this can ruin the valves or more.

11. If everything seems OK. remove the drill bit or allen wrench from the tension adjuster. Perform step 10 again for one final check.

I hope this helps.

SOURCE: 1995 Jeep Wrangler 2.5 4cyl spits and sputters while driving

have you considered checking alternator and battery? just a thought

SOURCE: Wont start, new fuel pump

replace fuse and relay.also check oil pressure switch.it controls fuel pump also. check fuel pump wires and fuel injector fuse .if all is good pcm could be faulty it controls fuel pump on .command circuit