Miss firing in number 6

SOURCE: 1999 cougar no fire to spark plugs

Standing at the licenst plate. Remove the plastic shroud on top of the engine (closest to you) and unbolt the metal box directly below it you can gain access to the front three. As for the back, remove the connector and screw at the 7 o'clock position off to the side of the dist cap. You CAN reach the back three with two 6 inch socket extenders and without remvoing any other engine parts. Should take 30 min regardless of experience. I just did mine and I'm not a mechanic (06/27/07). Answer Hey, I'm not sure if the answer involving removal of the valve covers, and appearently everything else in the engine compartment, is misleading on purpose but...... all you need to do on the 4 cylinder Cougar is pull the wires out by their bases and use a long exstension on your socket. I'm not sure what this guy was trying to do but I hope not too many people followed his advice!! The answer from Greg was exactly correct. Answer To remove the spark plugs, remove the covers and you will see how simple it really is. The spark plugs are hiding under the covers. Greg Hasen Not only you will have to lift the covers, but to reach the back three you will have to remove the valve cover. Here's how to: 1. Remove the water pump belt cover (the black cover in the front of the engine compartment that has ?Duratec? on it.) If you have a 1996+ vehicle, you should think about removing it permanently, since it only serves to trap heat and slowly kill the IMRC box electronics. 2. Disconnect the following electrical connectors from the: MAF, IAT, TPS, IAC, and EVR. The EVR connector is black and is located at the very back of the upper plenum, next to the firewall. 3. Disconnect throttle cable from the TB and the cruise control cable, if equipped. For 1995 5-speed vehicles, take care not to lose the metal clip for the throttle cable when you are removing it. Once the cable is removed the clip will slide right off. 4. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the EVR. You may have to wait until the upper intake is unbolted and partially removed for better leverage. 5. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the top of the upper intake. Push down on the black plastic collar with a screwdriver and hold, and then pull the plastic line out of the intake. 6. Remove the air box along with the MAF and accordion tube. 7. Unbolt the throttle cable bracket from the upper intake (three 8mm bolts, one 10mm nut). Set bracket and attached cables aside. 8. Disconnect the air bypass hose at the upper intake. It connects right next to the IAC valve. 9. Disconnect the hose from the PCV valve that goes to the upper intake, underneath the throttle body. This is also a good time to change the PCV valve. 10. Unbolt the EGR valve from the upper intake. 11. Unbolt the upper intake. 12. Carefully remove the upper intake and set it on top of some clean rags or newspaper. It will likely be oozing some oily gunk out the bottom. 13. Cover the openings of the lower intake with clean rags to keep anything from falling into the openings. Anything that falls in will likely end up in the head or the cylinders themselves. Now you are free to remove the back plugs. Hope this helps Jesus

SOURCE: Check Engine light on AGAIN!

I have an '01 Sable that posted a Check Engine light and the problem turned out to be a Mass Airflow Sensor.

SOURCE: car has been sitting for awhile--gas tank was less

MASS AIR FLOW OR MAP SENSER

SOURCE: replaced plugs,wires,coil pack and still have the

pull all plugs for compression check /turn engine over fore 5 sec for each cyl,should be 10 lb and no more from one to the other .
tim

SOURCE: engine light on, idles rough. had engine light diagnosis.replaced

See if you can get the codes. If it is still number 4 only (probably a P0304) it could be the fuel flow through injector 4. Try some Techron cleaner and make sure number 4 plug isn't fouled. Also get the compression checked on number 4.

If not, it could be the ignition control module assuming all other changes have been made. If you get a code it will help. A P0300 would point toward the ICM. If it is number 4 only it could still be the ICM. Expect around $150 for the module if you do it yourself. The ICM may be under the coil pack. If you are getting a P1361 and/or P1362 it could be the Cam position sensor. They are around $40 and are usually near the number one cylinder. Mine is hiding under the water pump pulley. It is a Buick with the 3.8 engine but the principal is the same.