My car won't start. All the lights and radio come on and when I wiggle wires under the steering colum it will crank up. It seems to be the wires that are connected to the part where the diagnostic

if they tried to pull the wheel lock located in the steering colum. they may have damaged the key sensor that read you security codes off the key. which means you`ll need to replace the key sensor in the colum. Unless they pulled a wire off under the steering colum. look down the steering colum and up underneath and see if there are any plugs out. PS some cars are designed of extra accessories which case you may find a few plugs away from the colum that aren`t connected to any thing these won`t be the issue but.

My 2003 Saturn l200 2.2 ecotec did this when the battery was dead. Put some juice on the battery, then the car came out of park, and I was able to remove the key. To the car, there's a vast difference between a sluggish battery and a dead battery. It may have enough amps to crank it, but it wont start w/out full output from the battery.

A/T or M/T transmission, they are wired diffr.!
I guess, you know flashing is bad wiring , right?

but this no crank page solves this.
takes only $20 voltmeter to be , effective.

to crank takes but 1 wire. (starter good)
the ST line or start line.
suzuki calls this 1 wire the Start line, (amazing fact)
at the key switch a black-red wire.
then after passing through the (clutch/ or A/T park switch)
the color changes, 1 time to blk-yell, then lands on the starter.
its very simple and fully show here, in details.

http://www.fixkick.com/nocrank.html

if its a 2012 see the dealer should be under warrantee

Are you saying the engine cranks but won't start, or the engine won't crank ?
If the engine does not crank, you would check for voltage at the starter, the neutral safety switch, and the key switch as well as the ground connections.

duplicate question

So it's a no crank condition? Do dash lights, gauges, and everything else work when the car won't crank over? If so, buy a cheap $5.00 testlight, and when the car won't crank, pull the small black wire off the starter solenoid. While someone holds the key in start (cranking) position and clutch pedal depressed, see if the black wire has power as it should. (Ground the testlight and just touch the wire's end terminal. If powered, the testlight will light up.) If power there, then the starter solenoid is failing. Toyota starters are very good units, but the solenoid's internal contacts get old and pitted.
If no power at the black wire, then the start circuit from ignition switch to clutch safety switch (on the clutch pedal) to starter relay to starter solenoid will have to be diagnosed. To double-check: take a single battery jumper cable and put it on the positive battery post connection. Put the other end of the jumper cable on the solenoid terminal where black wire was removed. Key can be off. Make sure car is in neutral, brake set. If starter now operates, solenoid is O.K., and it is a problem in the start circuit, -ignition switch, neutral start switch, or in the wiring.
Now find a grounding place for testlight under the dash. When car won't crank, check for power coming out of ignition switch on the black wire with white stripe. This is the start wire for the starter solenoid. Key must be in crank position. Wire shoud be powered-ignition switch is working. If no power, switch is failing. You can do the same for the clutch start switch-it's a simple switch, that when clutch is depressed switch is closed and passes power on from ignition switch to the starter relay (thus allowing power to the starter solenoid). Black wire, red stripe-this is wire from clutch switch to starter relay. When key is in crank, clutch depressed, this wire should be hot.
With me so far? Still haven't found a problem, or any loose connections? Next and last is the starter relay. It is located under dash, close to gas pedal, but under the center console, just forward and left of gear shifter. It can be tested and the wiring diagnosed there, but relays are cheap, so just swap in another and see if that helps.
If you have tried everything, and still no help, you could try a new wire from the relay to the starter solenoid. This is that black wire we started with. Older toyotas sometimes have a problem with degraded wiring not passing enough current to operate the starter

Shifter ?? why do you bother with a lazy mans gearbox ,nothing but trouble cant beat the manual version ,from your description it sounds like a inhibitor switch failure but i couldnt be sure without the old one cell brain box under the bonnet to be sure

I would check your brake light swich located under dash just fallow your brake pedle with a test light see if you have power going to it slitely press brake pedle see if other side of switch has power (key on car not running) if not try ajusting it by pulling on it or unscewing it if all checks out ok replace turn signal switch disconnect battery remove center part of steerring remove center bolt with steerring puller pull steering wheel with locking plate puller pull locking plate remove turn signal handle emergency button three scews holding turn signal under dash fallow steering colum disconect wires on right side (passenger side) tape a long wire to end of connector pull turn signal without pulling tape wire all the way out so you can tape it to new turn signal wire connector to be able to pull wires back down steerring colume (you might have to losen steerring colume and bracket two scews under dash four on steering colume)

Sounds to me like you are right. Read up on this link. You'll find an answer to you problem there.
http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/