Audi A6 1996 V6 2.6 Petrol - Won't start and fuel pump is not coming on either.

Maybe oil pressure sensor switch if oil is leaking from it that's your problem.or your petrol pump has gone.when u turn your car ignition on u should here the fuel pump cone on.if not check fuel pump relay if that's ok it's your fuel pump common problem.

My routine to check non-starting motors: (petrol/gas models)

• Check immobilizer status
• Check fuel supply -does it reach the fuel rail when starting. If not OK, check 12v supply to fuel pump when starting. If OK, fuel pump maybe dead.If not present, check fuel pump fuse and relay.

• If fuel supply is OK, check spark ignition. If not OK, follow the supply circuit backwards to the ECM. Coils and/or ignition amplifier connector should have one 12v supply to it when ignition switch is on.

For Diesels with 'common rails' you can take same approach for fuel. No ignition testing possible. The diesel fuel pump still needs battery power. It will make some sound when IGN is on. If not, check ALL fuses and relays.

Relay, on top of fuel tank under parcel shelf, check its getting power, if not its fuse, if it is, bin it get a new one.

check tank selector switch

You'll have to figure out if it is a fuel or ignition problem.
Is the check engine light on ? Have you checked for trouble codes ?
It could be a relay, the ignition module, coil, or a list of other things.
Even the fuel pump.
If this is a vortec V6 it takes at least 60psi to cover the injectors.

If you have fuel as you say then the fuel pump relay is not the problem.

Well for starters, you need to diagnose the problem before replacing anymore parts. I say this because you mention both the fuel pump and sensors dealing with the ignition system which are 2 separate main things. Basically it takes 2 things to make an engine start, fuel and spark at the spark plugs. You need to narrow down what is missing because it seems since you replaced sensors dealing with spark and then you mention the other need fuel. I'm not sure as to where to start to help until whatever is missing is diagnosed and then find the cause of the loss. There are a couple of things you can check. Below is a picture of the relay box in the engine compartment. With the help of somebody put a finger touching both the fuel pump relay and the EGI main relay. While touching them have somebody turn the key to the "on" position (no need to try and start). When the key is turned on you should feel a "click" inside both of those relays. The fuel pump relay will click for about 3 seconds and the click again to shut off. The EGI main relay should stay on. If both seem to be fine you need to make sure of the fuel pump gettting "juice" and for power to the ignition system like the coils. You can get to the power/juice wire at the fuel pump pretty easy. You can access the connection at the fuel pump by lifting the lower part of the rear seat. Once the seat is lifted you should be able to see a part in the carpet that is cut to be able to lift the carpet up and access the plate covering the access to the fuel pump and/or the top of the fuel tank. Using a test light, check the green and yellow wires at the fuel pump. You should have power at those wire when turn the engine over or if the key is just turned to the on position you should have power there for about 3 seconds. To begin checking for spark or power to the ignition system you need to make sure you are getting power to the ignition coils. The red and white wires at the coils are your power wires. Check those. Also you can check the power at the fuel injectors. When the key is turned on or when trying to start, you should have power to the green wire at each of the fuel injectors. You should have constant power/juice at each of the fuel injectors. This is where I would start to narrow down the loss. Start here with these tests and let me know how the tests come out by replying/commenting here or you can email me directly at [email protected] ith what you have found out. Once the first tests are done and I know what the results are, we can go to the next step with a couple of other tests to figue the problem out. If one of the relays don't "click" then you have a possible bad relay. The EGI main relay is a common thing to go as well as the fuel pump relay. Don't mind helping and there is no cost to you for it but I don't want to tell you to start replacing parts until the problem is located. Hope this helps get you started.

Are you sure it's running when cranking? It should have come on when key turned on.
This is for camrys up to year '91. It may apply in your '95, also. Check the 7.5 amp ignition fuse and the 15 amp EFI fuse and the EFI main relay, all located in the fuse box next to your battery. There is also the circuit opening relay tied in to fuel pump operation. It is usually found under center of dash. It is usually not the problem, but it is part of the checks for fuel pump operation.
If your car has a " check connector" or "service connector" (also called a fuel pump check connector) under hood on driver's side near the firewall (a little 1 inch cube with a cap on it), then bridge terminals +B and Fp with a jumper wire. Turn key to on (don't start car). The pump should come on. Listen for fuel return noise from the fuel pressure regulator, and verify pressure in hose from the fuel filter. If nothing, check those fuses above. Here is how power runs to pump: Battery to 40 amp main fusible link-to 15 amp EFI fuse-to EFI main relay-to circuit opening relay-to fuel pump-to ground. Ignition switch and the computer (ECU) work the relays to pass power to pump. Hope this helps some, Randy. Good luck.

No noise from fuel pump when you turn over the car .First thing get voltage at fuel pump relay checked, is there 12 volt to the relay.If no, then problem is again the relay.--------- To reconfirm the problem, try other test, that is remove the relay and by pass the relay terminals with a jumper wire .Then with 12 volt external battery give power to fuel pump connector and see, if the fuel pump starts, then its clear that fuel pump relay is faulty.----------- Also other problem can be fuel pump inertia switch.If the inertia switch is faulty then also fuel pump will not start.-------- The fuel pump relay on a 1995 Ford Explorer is in the power distribution
box, in the engine compartment, driver's side near the firewall.----------
The fuel pump inertia switch is in the right front passenger area
it is below the dash but above the carpet in the right hand corner.--------
Its a push button type inertia switch.
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Fuel Pump Activation
When ignition switch is turned to START position, PCM operates fuel pump relay to provide fuel for starting engine. PCM senses engine speed and shuts off fuel pump by opening ground circuit to fuel pump relay when engine stops or engine speed drops to less than 120 RPM. When ignition switch is in ON position, EEC power relay is energized (contacts closed). Power is provided to fuel pump relay and timer in PCM. Fuel pump receives power through fuel pump relay contacts.
Inertia Fuel Shutoff (IFS) Switch
All models use an electrical interrupt switch in fuel system. During a collision or vehicle rollover, electrical contacts within inertia switch open, shutting off fuel supply to electric fuel pump. Fuel supply is interrupted even when engine is running.
A reset button is located on switch assembly. If electrical circuit trips, vehicle will not restart until switch is reset. Fuel system should be inspected before resetting switch.
IFS switch is located under instrument panel, near right side of transmission hump. ----------- If the fuel pump relay, the inertia switch and fuel pump all checked ok, and fuel pump is working with direct 12 volt source to fuel pump.Then problem relates to computer.The computer (power control module, PCM) is faulty and has to be replaced.--------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech.

COULD BE FUEL PUMP,CHECK FUEL PUMP FUSE AND RELAY. LISTEN FOR FUEL PUMP OPERATION IN FUEL TANK WHEN YOU TURN IGNITION ON POSITION YOU SHOULD HEAR FUEL PUMP RUN FOR 3 SECONDS AND TURN OFF.