The microbus had a 2.5i 5cylinder engine ,I then replaced the engine with a golf 1.8 carb engine using a adapter plate to fit onto the gbox. Now when I select gears in doesn't go in easy grinds been when in motion the gears select easy and drive with no hussels. What could be the problem

Isn't your Hyundai Accent 1.3 fuel injected?

https://www.google.com/search?q=base+plate+to+fit+a+32%2F36+Weber+for+1998+Accent+1.3

https://www.google.com/search?q=base+plate+to+fit+a+32%2F36+Weber+for+1998+Accent+1.3

99004.675 Mazda B2000, B2200 Adapter Plate

Weberjets https://weberjets.com > ... > DG Adapter Plates

Mazda B2000 B2200 Adapter for use with Weber DGV DGAV DGAS and Holley 5200 carburetors. Fits 1986 onwards. Add to cart. SKU: 99004.675 Categories: DG ...
US$66.27

WEBER CARBURETOR ADAPTER KIT 32/36 ...

eBay https://www.ebay.com > ... > Carburetor Parts

WEBER CARBURETOR ADAPTER KIT 32/36 WEBER MAZDA B2000 B2200 W/DVD 99004.675 ; Condition. New ; Quantity. 203 sold. 5 available ; Item Number. 272511555062.
US$59.95 · ‎ In stock

32/36 Carb Kit Compatible For Mazda B2000 B2200 1986- ...

Amazon.ca https://www.amazon.ca > Compatible-1986-1993-Elec...
32/36 carb kit compatible for Mazda B2000 B2200 1986-1993 for Weber 32/36 DGEV Electric Choke Conversion Kit with adapter and air filter and hardware / .

..

The engine control unit must be paired with the new/replacement engine otherwise it will not work.

strip this carb and check inside ,feels like some insect has made a home or laid a lavea inside it

Have you considered making an adapter plate? You can use a piece of 1/2" aluminum plate, drill it out to match the carb venturis on one side and the manifold plenum on the other side, them blend them together. bolts going into the manifold can be used to fasten the adapter to the manifold using tulip bolts that will be flush when installed. Drill and tap your studs for the carb using the gasket for a template. of course you need to use two gaskets, one between the plate and manifold and the other for the carb. It takes a bit of work and patience. I use a die grinder when I need to make one. Kerosene is useful for keeping the grinder free of debris.

I was going to suggest Mikuni's but don't have info even from their website. I had very good experience with them during the early 80's so my next suggestion is from Weber, so click on the link for more info.

sell it buy a real car

remove the intercooler and air filter box. undo starter motor then disconnect all connections into gbox. (2 i think) remove both front wheels then dsconnect both drive shafts at the gbox. (just pull them out) undo the mount above the gbox then supprt with a jack. remove mount then undo the ring of bolts that join it to the engine. pull it over to one side as far as you can get it. this should give u enough room to remove the clutch. ring of bolts holding pressure plate to the flywheel. friction plate between the two. then remove the bearing from the shaft in the gbox. replace all 3 parts ensuring the new bearing is greased, and in the fork correctly. assemble in reverse order. before starting check you get all gears then start with the clutch depressed and slowly release incase the release bearing is stuck..
CAUTION. GBOX IS VERY HEAVY

1 - High Tension cable

• 4 to 8 Kohms
• With suppression connector and spark plug connector
• Only remove and install spark plug connector using tool T10029

2 - Ignition coil with output stage (-N70-, -N127-, -N291-, -N292-)
Connection, ignition wires:

• HV1 = Cylinder 1
• HV2 = Cylinder 2
• HV3 = Cylinder 3
• HV4 = Cylinder 4

3 - 10 Nm 4 - Connector

• 6 pin

5 - Knock sensor 1 -G61-*

• Contacts gold plated
• Fitting location: Cylinder block intake side

6 - 2-pin connector

• For knock sensor 1 -G61-
• Contacts gold plated
• Do not interchange

7 - Knock sensor 2 -G66-*

• Contacts gold plated
• Fitting location: Cylinder block intake side

8 - 2-pin connector

• For knock sensor 2 -G66-
• Contacts gold plated
• Do not interchange

9 - 20 Nm

• Tightening torque influences the function of the knock sensor

10 - Spark plug, 30 Nm

• Type and electrode gap See test data, spark plugs.
• Remove and install with 3122B

11 - Connector

• Contacts gold plated
• 3 pin

12 - 10 Nm 13 - 100 Nm

• Use counter- hold tool 3415 to loosen and tighten

14 - Camshaft sprocket

• With rotor for Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor

15 - Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor -G40-* 16 - Bracket

• For Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor

undo centre wheel hub nut 30mm/32mm, socket. undo lower wish-bone outer bolts, disconect battery,/remove starter motor,/remove transmission mounting bolts to body frame ,/ remove all surrounding bolts around bell housing transmission,/ remove clutch cable from transmission,/ remove drive shafts from centre hub and transmission,/ make sure car is standing on axle stands at front of jacking points,/use a trolley jack to suport engine sump with a piece of wood,/ slide transmission away from flywheel,/lower transmision on floor,/undo all clutch plate preasure bolts 10mm,/remove thrust bearing located on centre transmision shaft ,.also make sure if fitted speedo cable needs to be removed.new clutch plate should indicate flywheel ,without fitting clutch plate wrong way round/otherwise transmision will not bolt to engine block.,

Just a shot in the dark here. Mikuni carbs were problamatic on that engine. I remember them well. They had internal vacuum leaks and diapragm leaks just like you describe. I dont kn ow if you can get it any more but the fix used to be a new reman carb. they were not rebuildable. But I always wondered why you coul not have a base plate adapter made by a machine shop to adapt any other simpler carb to it? as long as your cfm rating was the same--ya know? Like take a holley 2 barrel off a k-car and adapt it on. Anyway I hope I helped. But that is what it sounds like. Carb replacement. Thanks