Need a manual for a KAL MD2204 meter

Question edited for clarity.
Question moved from Cameras.

It is from the 1980s! The old ones used to have a Zenon flash tube. There is a company in the link that used to sell them and also service timing lights, but they are out of stock. You would have to remove it and then look to electronic parts suppliers to match it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=kal+L-10+timing+light+bulb

https://www.toolsource.com/flashlights-c-370_385_632/xenon-flash-tube-for-timing-lights-p-103947.html

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Check owners manual foe location..use a volt meter ( multimeter) or fuse tester check open circuit ( fuse open) ..most times you can see fuse link wire is broken visually. Go to auto parts store replace fuse wirh same amperage rating

Don't know if this is still available, but you can check.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/kal-equip-alternator-diode-tester-instruction-booklet-late-60s.957420

set the meter mode to the ohms sign ( omega sign) set the scale to position the decimal point if the resistance is to large for the standard setting
to know what you are reading you will need to get the numbers from a workshop manual so that you can compare what you have to what it should be
it the sensor is working you should get a reading but if it goes straight all 000000 then there is a dead short or if it reads what you have when you switch the meter on it will be an open circuit --broken wire --
the test procedure is in the workshop manual

Black lead connector is the Neg. or the common, seems, goes in the bottom most socket on your meter and the red one on the very top one. Not the one marked for Amps. Then test the meter for working, turn the dial on the multimeter to resistance X1 or X100, with the meter on, touch the probes together to see meter deflection.
Make sure you put the meter on to volts after this to test voltage AC or DC.
Omar

Consult the owners manual for the layout of your fuse/relay box. Testing requires an ohm meter. There are many types of relays, and the exact specifics for your relay would only be in a jaguar repair manual. However, you can do some general tests. Watch this Youtube video on how to test relays. Good luck. Relays how they work and how to test with multimeter

1. Follow these steps.
   Remove the negative side battery cable from the negative battery terminal.
2. Connect the black wire to the com input on the multimeter and the red wire to the 10A or 20A input on the multimeter. the meter needs to be able to read at least a 2 or 3 amps for this test to work. Connecting the red wire to the mA input on the multimeter won't work and could damage the meter.
3. Attach a multimeter(set the dial on the multimeter to measure Amps as per multimeters instructions) between the negative cable and the negative battery post. Wait a few seconds to several minutes for the car to go into sleep mode - i.e. when you make the contact with the ammeter, the cars computer systems "wake up". After a bit of time they will go back to "sleep".
4. If the ammeter is reading over 25-50 milliamps, something is using too much battery power.
5. Go to the fuse panel(s) and remove fuses, one at a time. Pull the main fuses (higher amp ratings)last. Perform the same steps for relays found in the fuse panel. Sometimes relay contacts can fail to release causing a drain. Be sure to observe the ammeter after pulling each fuse or relay.
6. Watch for the ammeter to drop to acceptable drain. The fuse that reduces the drain is the draw. Consult the owners' manual or service manual to find what circuits are on that fuse.
7. Check each device (circuit) on that fuse. Stop each lamp, heater, etc. to find the drain.
8. Repeat steps 1&2 to test your repair. The ammeter will tell you exact numbers.
9. You can also try unhooking the big wire from your alternator. The alternator can sometimes have a shorted diode that can cause amps to flow through the alternator's power cable and through the shorted diode and into the case and through the bolts and back to the negative battery terminal. This will drain a battery in a hurry.Make sure to read the ammeter before and after unplugging your Alternator

There was probably a short somewhere in the electrical system for your fan that was causing a fuse to blow. I'm sorry, but it will not be an easy fix. You will need a wiring schematic (from a haynes manual from autozone) of this system, a multimeter and a free saturday. Disconnect the battery. Secure the black lead from the meter to a ground point on your car. turn the multimeter to the lowest Ohms setting. Then using the meter and the wiring diagram, find all the points where power and ground have close to zero ohms. A good place to start is the switch.

Locate the blower and get a volt meter and an ohm meter. If the motor has two wires coming off it you will need to check two things, the first is for voltage. If the vehicle needs to be running for the blower to work then start it and turn the switch on its highest setting. Set your multimeter on DC voltage of 20 volts if its a manual meter.Touch the black probe of the meter to a ground, be it an exposed bolt or the outside ring of your cigarette lighter/power adapeter, just make sure you don't short the center contact in it. Check for 12-15 volts coming off either wire, if you don't see any voltage to either wire then its possible the switch is bad, and try again by using a different ground. Carefully test both wires using the DC volts setting to verify votage and ground off the wires. If you get a reading then your motor is bad and needs to be replaced.

The engine maybe severly damaged from low oil,coolant,etc. Maybe a little more info will help