2002 9-3 4cyl Turbo - Auto. Very intermitant problem where engine will not crank (start). Ignition switch lights up dash and can hear fuel pump engage, but when I turn to crank the engine - nothing; no click, no dimming of lights, no nothing. Sometimes failure lasts only a couple start attempts, then will start, other times, it fails much longer, then eventually starts. Have tried moving gear shift and and out of Park, moving the car a little then pushing into Park. Nothing has consistently changed the symptom, though sometimes it will start after a fiebel fix attempt, but nothing consistent. Sometimes will fail two or three times in a row, when running errands, and other times will not fail for 2 or 3 weeks. Have been told it could be ignition switch, ignitiaon switch relay - behind fuse panel, starter solinoid, or starter. Has anyone else seen this problem?
Well, this sounds like one of the most logial solutions I have received thus far. I will try to locate the crank sensor, and take he advice. I did try one fix that I read about for 9-5s, with similar problelms, and I have not experienced failure since then. That was about two months ago, so this is the longest stretch of success since the failure started. The fix was to tighten the positive battery cable at the starter motor. The starter nut did take about 3/4 to a full turn of tightening, but was not what I would consider loose enought to create a failure, however with the amount of amps it takes to crank, maybe it could have been the problem. Thanks for the crank sensor idea - that sounds logical.Well, this sounds like one of the most logial solutions I have received thus far. I will try to locate the crank sensor, and take he advice. I did try one fix that I read about for 9-5s, with similar problelms, and I have not experienced failure since then. That was about two months ago, so this is the longest stretch of success since the failure started. The fix was to tighten the positive battery cable at the starter motor. The starter nut did take about 3/4 to a full turn of tightening, but was not what I would consider loose enought to create a failure, however with the amount of amps it takes to crank, maybe it could have been the problem. Thanks for the crank sensor idea - that sounds logical.
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Crank sensor can translate heat. Not allowing restart after the turbo heat radiates in the area. Try a wad of aluminum foil in front of the crank sensor(on the block behind the turbo) . It protects it from heat and its a cheep test. If this works you can make a better sheild or leave the foil.
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have the engine code read most auto stores offer this service for free and the code will assist you in correcting your problem ----your problem can be a few different reasons --bad fuel [water]--injector malfunction clogging or flooding--fuel filter--turbo--a sensor --air leak--etc the trouble code will show specifically where to start
That is an aweful lot of questions. Questions that cannot be answered without the proper vehicle information (of which, you posted NONE) and some logical testing of the systems involved.
when this stall happens notice if the speedometer drops to "0" while the vehicle is in motion, if some warning lights aren't lit (chk engine, ABS, brake etc.) when key is set to "On"!! If these issues happen when the vehicle "shuts off while driving" it may be caused by "ignition switch failure". Your vehicle may be part of a 2002 Honda/Acura recall. Symtoms include: intermitted power loss, intermitted engine shut off, some warning lights not lit, random hard starts. This happens more often in warmer/hot weather. Call your local dealer and provide them with your VIN# to check if your vehicle is still covered, they may fix it for free. Otherwise the part is about $48-$100!!
when ignition switch is placed on "on", are several lights not lit on the instrument panel. Such as check engine, abs, battery, oil..etc!! All warning lights are to be lit momentarily when the ignition is placed in "on" position. This vehicle may be part of a recall in 2002, which replaces faulty ignition switches. Poor design of internal contacts and excessive power consumption leads to power failure to vital engine components. Typical symtoms include: intermitted stalling, no spark, hard starts. Inspect the ignition switch for dark residue, and replace if necessary!!
test power at the starter's power wire. If there is voltage, replace starter. If there is no power, check fuses/relays, if those are fine, check ignition switch (there is a recall on this since 2002). Typical symtoms of ignition switch failure on these vehicles include: Some warning lights not lit when key is turned to ON (ABS, battery, check engine, oil light etc.), Intermitted hard start/No start, stalling while driving, intermitted guage failure. If it is an ignition switch failure, call your local honda dealer for possible free repair under the recall(have your VIN# at hand). hopefully this helps
is there power at the coil's electrical connector(key must be set to ON? Is some of your warning lights not lit(that normally light-up when key is on) such as airbag, abs, engine, battery etc??? If you answer yes to any of this, your ignition switch has failed. Acura/Honda models 97-02 have a recall on this in 2002 approx 1.5million vehicles affected. Symtoms include, intermitted speedometer/tach fluctuating to zero while car is in motion, intermitted stalling or no start(symtoms increase in hotter weather). The electrical contacts on these ignition switches are faulty causing shorts and archs within. Therefore power supply to vital engine electrical components are cut off. If this is the case, call your local Acura/Honda dealer with your vin# at hand, your vehicle may qualify for a free repair. Hopefully this helps....please rate thanks!!
is your engine cutting out while driving?? When it happens again notice if 1.Your speedometer goes to zero while in motion?? 2. If Some warning indicators lights aren't lit?? If yes, it's the ignition switch. Ignition switches on Hondas made from 97-02 encounter ignition switch failure. A recall was implimented in 2002. Ignition switch internal contacts severely arch or short causing intermitted power loss to vital engine electrical components. In this case causing the motor to intermittedly shut off while cruising. Call your local Honda dealer with your VIN# at hand for info on this. Possiblly they will replace this, if not they range from $45-$95....Hopefuly this tip helps
I would guess starter fuse first, then starter. When you turn key, if you don't hear a click, you should focus your attention on the fuse first and then the starter. If you hear a click, then most likely (80%) its the starter solenoid. try to start the car in neutral to rule out the neutral safety switch...good luck
Well, this sounds like one of the most logial solutions I have received thus far. I will try to locate the crank sensor, and take he advice. I did try one fix that I read about for 9-5s, with similar problelms, and I have not experienced failure since then. That was about two months ago, so this is the longest stretch of success since the failure started. The fix was to tighten the positive battery cable at the starter motor. The starter nut did take about 3/4 to a full turn of tightening, but was not what I would consider loose enought to create a failure, however with the amount of amps it takes to crank, maybe it could have been the problem. Thanks for the crank sensor idea - that sounds logical.
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