Hi there:
First check this information about "engine noses"...
ENGINE CLICKING NOISES
A clicking or tapping noise that gets louder when you rev the engine is probably "tappet" or upper valvetrain noise caused by one of several things: low oil pressure, excessive valve lash, or worn or damaged parts.
First, check the engine dipstick to see if the oil level is low. If low, add oil to bring it back up to the full mark. Is the engine still noisy? Check your oil pressure. A low gauge reading (or oil warning light) would indicate a serious internal engine problem that is preventing normal oil pressure from reaching the upper valvetrain components. The cause might be a worn or damaged oil pump, a clogged oil pump pickup screen or a plugged up oil filter. Using too thick a viscosity of motor oil during cold weather can also slow down the flow of oil to the upper valvetrain, causing noise and wear.
COLLAPSED LIFTER NOISE
Worn, leaky or dirty lifters can also cause valvetrain noise. If oil delivery is restricted to the lifters (plugged oil galley or low oil pressure), the lifters won't "pump up" to take up the normal slack in the valvetrain. A "collapsed" lifter will then allow excessive valve lash and noise.
VALVE LASH NOISE
If you can rule out lubrication-related problems as a cause, the next step would be to remove the valve cover(s) and check valve lash. On older import engines, mechanical lifters require periodic valve lash adjustments (typically every 30,000 miles). Too much space between the tips of the rocker arms and valve stems can make the valvetrain noisy -- and possibly cause accelerated wear of both parts.
To measure (and adjust) valve lash, you need a feeler gauge. The gauge is slid between the tip of the valve stem and rocker arm (or the cam follower or the cam itself on overhead cam engines) when the piston is at top dead center (valve fully closed). Refer to a manual for the specified lash and adjustment procedure. Also, note whether the lash spec is for a hot or cold engine (this makes a big difference!).
On engines with hydraulic lifters, oil pressure pumps up the lifters when the engine is running to maintain zero lash in the valvetrain. This results in quiet operation. So if the rocker arms are clattering, it tells you something is amiss (bad lifter or worn or damaged parts) or the rocker arms need adjusting.
DAMAGED ENGINE PARTS NOISE
Inspect the valvetrain components. Excessive wear on the ends of the rocker arms, cam followers (overhead cam engines) and/or valve stems can open up the valve lash and cause noise. So too can a bent pushrod or a broken valve spring.
RAPPING OR DEEP KNOCKING ENGINE SOUND
Usually bad news. A deep rapping noise from the engine is usually "rod knock," a condition brought on by extreme bearing wear or damage. If the rod bearings are worn or loose enough to make a dull, hammering noise, you're driving on borrowed time. Sooner or later one of the bearings will fail, and when it does one of two things will happen: the bearing will seize and lock up the engine, or it will attempt to seize and break a rod. Either way your engine will suffer major damage and have to be rebuilt or replaced.
Bearing noise is not unusual in high mileage engines as well as those that have been neglected and have not had the oil and filter changed regularly. It can also be caused by low oil pressure, using too light a viscosity oil, oil breakdown, dirty oil or dirt in the crankcase, excessive blowby from worn rings and/or cylinders (gasoline dilutes and thins the oil), incorrect engine assembly (bearings too loose), loose or broken connecting rod bolts, or abusive driving.
Bearing wear can be checked by dropping the oil pan and inspecting the rod and main bearings. If the bearings are badly worn, damaged or loose, replacing the bearings may buy you some time. But if the bearings are badly worn or damaged, the crankshaft will probably have to be resurfaced - which means a complete engine overhaul or replacing the engine is the vehicle is worth the expense.
ENGINE PINGS OR KNOCKS WHEN ACCELERATING
The cause here may be Spark Knock (Detonation) caused by an inoperative EGR valve, overadvanced ignition timing, engine overheating, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers, or low octane fuel.
Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.
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SOURCE: humming noise in front end/engine fo 2001 Cadillac STS
Keep an eye on your temperature gauge until we figure this out, just in case & see if it climbs much/any at highway speeds.
SOURCE: Replace 2005 Cadillac CTS water pump
drain the coolant.remove belt by rotating belt tensioner cllockwise. water pump pulley will require a holding tool to keep it from turning while removing bolts. access to air ratchet can sometimes eliminate the need to hold but be careful cause thats a good way to skin some knuckles. also make installation more difficult to obtain proper torque. after pulley is off just a few water pupm mounting bolts remain. clean and dry gasket surface very well before reinstalling.
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SOURCE: how do I replace the tail light bulb on my
ok cadillac for some reason has to be difficult about these things you actually have to take the whole tail light assembly out. . .here is what youre going to need:
1. socket wrench
2. number 10 socket (gm's nut of choice)
3. patience because it is easy to drop the nut be careful
ok so you have to open the trunk then take the plastic that holds the carpet down off. you do this by unscrewing the black screw on pegs (not sure what to call these things). after you do this pull the plastic thing hard because it is being held in place by some pegs other than the ones you have already removed. then remove all the side carpeting depending on which side youre changing. ok after this look directly behind the tail light assembly for 2-3 (i forget how many) bolt like pegs (my new favorite word) these are attached to the plastic tail light assembly. then take the nuts off of these pegs and then you should be able to tug the assembly off. then you do what the others say take out the socket and replace the bulb.
like i said cadillac makes **** hard to do. if you hate this wait til you have to take the whole bumper off to replace the headlight bulbs (might want to invest in some hid lights so you wont ever have to replace them)
good luck
SOURCE: 03 cadillac cts timing belt change procedure
if you know you can do this with directions and go to alldatadiy.com and buy a subscription, you will be glad you do, it is beyond the scope of this forum to tell you. But for 20.00 you will have exact precedures, step by step, and lots more on your car, It's worth it, I promise, If I have not helped you, please do not rate me, If I have please vote fixya. It's the only way you can pay be back for free. God Bless Good Luck, and Merry Christmas!
SOURCE: 2003 cadillac cts drive shaft
I was driving my 2003 cts, and all of a sudden the power went out. Car want start and igintion and shifter is locked. Can this be the ante theft lock system, because i have an alarm system installed with the factory alarm?
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