My engine get hot , I have replaced the water pump and the thermostat.

i hope this helps for the water pump. The thermostat is located at top of engine simply follow upper hose to engine and remove housing and replace thermostat.

There are other things to test before we have the engine spread all over the yard. Cooling fan operation. Yes the thermostat hot air in heater just means hot water. start with a cold engine then start and run at a high idle if heats quickly upper radiator hose hot lower cold good but reverse no flow. remove and test thermostat (not replace) put on stove boil water and watch it open once center piece is moving check with thermometer it should agree with stamp number on thermostat. if good check for slipping fan belt. check for air restrictions on radiator and water flow.

COULD BE THERMOSTAT IF TOP RADIATOR HOSE IS NOT HOT AND BOTTOM RADIATOR HOSE GOING TO WATER PUMP IS HOT THE THERMOSTAT STICKING PARTIALLY CLOSE.IF TOP HOSE IS HOT THE RADIATOR,ENGINE BLOCK HEATER CORE NEED FLUSHING OUT.IF WATER PUMP WEEP HOLE LEAKING REPLACE WATER PUMP, FAULTY WATER PUMP WILL CAUSE ENGINE TO OVER HEAT.REPLACE RADIATOR CAP MAKE SURE YOU HAVE 50 / 50 MIX SOLUTION ANTIFREEZE AND WATER IN COOLANT SYSTEM. IF ALL LOOKS GOOD CHECK ENGINE OIL ON DIP STICK, IF OIL IN DIP STICK LOOK LIKE MILKSHAKE YOU HAVE BLOWED HEAD GASKET THAT WILL CAUSE ENGINE OVERHEATING WHILE DRIVING CAR IN SHORT DISTANCE AND ENGINE OVERHEATING.

First, start by replacing the thermostat. It's located under the coolant filler cap / thermostat housing on a 2.4L dohc engine block on the upper left (passenger side)of the engine. We just replaced one in ours, but when we took the thermostat housing off, we discovered that the thermostat had broken/exploded, and that the lower thermostat spring and retainer were probably stuck inside the engine cooling galleries. We ran the car without replacing the thermostat, but it did not improve. The engine was still getting hot, and the heater blower still wasn't blowing hot air. We're going to try to replace the thermostat with the correct one (parts place gave us the wrong one and it didn't fit at all...), bleed the air out of the system again and see if there's some kind of link to there having to be a thermostat in the system. If that doesn't fix it, I'll have to look at the water pump to see if it's actually moving the water or not. If the water pump isn't functioning, the water isn't getting moved from the hot block to the radiator (where it's cooled through the radiator and goes back into the suction side of the water pump). If the pump is fine, and the new thermostat doesn't fix the problem, we'll have to investigate the possibility that the thermostat parts that got into the water galleries is somehow restricting the cooled water flow back into the engine, and that will be an expensive fix, I presume. Like all other cooling system problems though, start with replacing the thermostat. It's fast, cheap and will let you know where to look next if that doesn't fix it, but that problem is usually only a thermostat issue.

Remove thermostat and run the vehicle. do your hoses get tight now? If so, your new thermostat was not opening up. test it by putting it into a pot of water and bring up the temp on your stovetop. if the water boils, and the thermostat isnt open, then get a refund and a new thermostat. Be sure to point the spring end of the thermostat into the engine block when replacing. If your thermostat did open, then your water pump may be shot.

hot engine usually due to clogged radiator or bad thermostat. Take out the thermostat and make sure it is opening fully in boiling water.
Look inside your radiator for signs of clogging. If yes, professionally flush or replace radiator.

First off you never have to drive to seal any gasket! If it did not run hot before the replacement of the pump it should not run hot now unless something is defective or improperly installed.Presure test the system for leaks first and repair any leaks before doing anything else.Be sure to make sure that the Head Gaskets are not leaking as well!

If you are doing them all at the same time, do the water pump first. I like to do the toughest part first and then move on the the easier parts. Then the thermostat and then the radiator. Once you drain the radiator most of the engine coolant will come out making the waterpump easier to clean up. If you are doing them in different day's, alway's replace the waterpump and thermostat in pairs. If you can do the radiator at the same time, I would suggest that. Sometimes when thermostats get out of fluid, they sometimes will lock up and cause and overheat. Then you are replacing all the fluid and thermostat on a hot engine.

This is a Classic Sign of a Dead Waterpump.

Hello there,

Either an air bubble, the thermostat or the water pump.

• Air bubble (pocket) - Just because the radiator is full, doesn't mean the engine is. When an air bubble circulates through an engine it will cause the temp gauge to swing from hot (when water is in contact with the sensor) to cold ( when air is in contact). The less water, the hotter the engine. Easiest fix - add water.
  
• Thermostat - Keeps water circulating in the engine separate from the water in the radiator until it gets to a certain temperature. At that point, it opens and allows the hot engine water and the cooler radiator water to cycle. Hot to radiator, cool to engine. As the cooler water flows over the thermostat, it closes, allowing the cycle to repeat. If it opens at the wrong temp, or not at all, your engine will overheat. Water will begin to boil. Steam will make the temp gauge swing erratically.
• Water pump - If the water pump is failing (sometimes the impeller will come of the shaft), the water will not circulate. Same results.
  

Troubleshoot:

• First and foremost: BE SAFE!!! Wear safety glasses. Start this with the engine cool. When you look in the radiator, do it from an angle and as far away as possible.
  
• Have a hose or a couple two liter bottles full of water.
  
• Take off the radiator cap. (Do not take off if engine is hot)
  
• Is the water level low? If so, top it off.
  
• Make sure the transmission is in either PARK or Neutral and set the parking brake.
• Start the engine.
• Observe the water level in the radiator. If it drops, top it off again.
  
• At first it should do nothing. The water in the engine is still cool. The thermostat is closed. As the water in the engine heats up, the thermostat will begin to open. When it does, you will notice the water level begin to surge up and down.
• Check your temp gauge. If the gauge getting close to the 'Red Zone', the thermostat should have begun cycling before now. Go back to the radiator and check it.
• When (if) the thermostat finally opens all the way, the water will start moving as it cycles through the system. You will be able to tell the difference.
• If you see the water flowing, the water pump is ok.
• If the water does not start to move and the gauge is getting close to 'Red', shut the engine down and let it cool. Do not put your face near the radiator. If the thermostat suddenly let go, The hot water, driven by steam, could erupt out of the filler hole. Replace thermostat. Rerun this test. If results are the same, replace water pump.
  
• Does the water level drop at this point (air bubble)? If so, top it off while it's circulating. Adding cold water will close the thermostat. Be prepared to wait through the cycling two or three times.
• Check the temp gauge again. Has it leveled off?
• When you don't need to add water any more, put the cap back on. Observe the temp gauge for a few more minutes. has it stopped the erratic behavior? If so, it was an air bubble and it's gone. If not, replace the thermostat.
  

Let me know how it goes. If you have any other problems, click the ASK button.

Remember: Good thing come to those who Rate.

Mike