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Check to make sure the Security light in dash on right hand corner is not on. If it is on , your passlock is enabled. to dissable it turn your key on but not start it and wait for apx 10-15 minutes. this should re-set it.
Properly drain the fuel tank, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
If not done already, raise and support the rear of the truck safely using jackstands.
If equipped on late-model vehicles, loosen and remove the tank plastic shield.
Loosen the retaining clamp and disconnect the tank filler hose from the tank neck.
If
fuel and vapor hoses or pump/sending unit wiring can be accessed at
this time, they may be tagged and disconnected. If not, wait for the
retaining straps to be loosened and lower the tank slightly for access.
Tag and disconnect and accessible wiring or hoses from the top of the fuel tank.
Have
and assistant support the fuel tank, then remove the fuel
tank-to-vehicle straps and, if equipped, the isolation strips. If no
assistant is available, position a floor jack to support the tank while
the straps are removed.
Lower the tank slightly, then remove
the sending unit or sending unit/pump wires, hoses and ground strap. Be
sure to label all connections to ease installation.
Carefully lower the fuel tank from the vehicle and store in a safe place.
Raise the tank partially into position in
the vehicle. If you are working without an assistant, you may wish to
loosely install one of the retaining straps and use a floor jack to
support the tank at an angle so there is access to the sending unit or
sending unit/pump assembly (as applicable).
Connect the fuel/vapor hoses and wiring to the top of the fuel tank, as tagged during removal.
Carefully
raise the fuel tank so it is fully into position and loosely secure the
retaining straps. Make sure the wires and hoses are not pinched or
damaged when raising the tank. Also, be sure that the isolation strips
(if used) are positioned between the retaining straps and the fuel tank.
It
may be easier to connect the fuel filler hose to the tank neck at this
time. If desired, connect the hose and secure the clamp.
Tighten the fuel tank retaining strap fasteners to specification. Tighten the strap nuts to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm).
If not done earlier, connect the tank filler hose to the tank neck and secure using the clamp.
If equipped, install and secure the tank plastic shield.
Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the rear of the truck.
Refill the fuel tank and install the filler cap, then check for leaks.
Properly drain the fuel tank, then disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the rear of the truck safely using jackstands.
Remove the shield forward support and bracket.
While
supporting the shield and tank assembly with the help of both an
assistant and a floor jack, remove the remaining bolts holding the
assembly to the frame, then lower it sufficiently for access to the
hoses and wires.
Tag and disengage the hoses and wires from the sending unit assembly.
Carefully
lower the fuel tank and shield from the vehicle, then if necessary for
service or replacement, separate the tank from the shield.
My friend, I suggest you go by your local Auto Parts Store and purchase a Haynes Repair Manual on this vehicle. There are many sensors and electronic controls involved with this engine as I'm sure you already know. Any one of these can memic something that "it is not".
If your problem is the Pressure Regulator, it is located inside the "Tunnel Ram" intake manifold along with the multiport fuel injection system.
Now,,, before I went through the trouble and expense of going into the Intake Manifold, I would run the EMC in Diagnostic Mode and see if there are any codes present.
most likely idle air control sensor or low engine coolant I know sounds funny but IAC uses coolant to regulate idle. Idle air control valve or throttle body positioning sensor.
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Internal pressure regulator on the fuel pump should hold for about a minute but some pressure loss is normal. However, on initial start-up, the pressure must be at operating pressure or the system wont work. I suspect the fuel pump is failing, it is an all too common problem for GM trucks and SUVs with mpfi fuel injection.
IACs do not go out very often, usually there is a problem with vacuum leaks, dirty throttle assemblies.
First check the spark up at the engine. Also turn the key to the on position with out turning it over and listen and see if the fuel pump primes. You should hear it hum. Thats where I would start anyway. If you don't hear it prime, then the fuel pump is out. If it is running and you are getting spark, then you may have to hook up a fuel pressure gauge to it and make sure you are getting enough pressure.
there is a fuel pressure regulator on the back of your injectors, change it, its a 13 dollar part, after you do that, buy a fuel pressure guage, hook up the pressure guage, turn the key to on possition, prime the like a couple times like you would do with a new pump, check the pressure it should be any where from 58 LBS to 62 lbs of pressure in the like, if its any lower the 58, you need to change your pump, with out 58 lbs of pressure the injectors dont get the correct pressure in each purge, hence the crank with no start.. you seem to know enought about pressure n stuff like that so u should get it
bad ignition module . if you getting no spark .plugs wet probably. check fuel pump pressure first before buying another one they are not cheap. replace fuel filter also.
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