1988 new yorker atc trouble codes

unplug the low pressure switch in the air conditioner line near the dryer with air switched on , jump the connector with a short piece of wire to see if the compressor clutch engages. If it does your pressure switch is bad. If the pressure switch is good then there is a fuse near the compressor somewhere that may be blown. If it blows new fuse your clutch is bad.

Bernard,

HVAC failure
the car has 2 classes of HVAC< manual and ATC
the blower must blow on high.??? does it on high?
if not, check fuses, for blower. (if lower speeds only fail say so)
the blower is dead,
then say if dash controls are Manual or ATC<
atc = automatic temp,controls with a dash thermostat et cetra.

the diagnostic path is different.
the ATC has self test too. .with over 30 errors possible.

use comments to respond, not a new post. please.

Code 88 shows to not really mean any problems. Most of those years of cars have a small valve to control water flow. Make sure your heater core is getting water, and the fan runs. If not, check fuses and the control switches for heat/cool. With that switch they installed, wires may have been cut or spliced.

Hi there,

Code 36 = ATC Head Command Failure (Chrysler's technical term: EEPROM Checksum Error).

Basically, this code indicates the Auto Temp Control (ATC) has malfunctioned.

If this is a stored code (i.e. not active) and your ATC appears to be working ok, then you can disregard this code. However, if this code is active (i.e your ATC is not communicating with your A/C system), then there is no simple fix you can do yourself.

Although some mechanics would suggest replacing the actual A/C Heater Control, I understand your Chrysler service agent may have a way to re-flash your system to correct this code. I recommend you contact your local service agent and discuss a possible reset of your system.




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There is no 3-10 code for the 91 chrysler new yorker 3.3 Liter. Are you sure it is not blinking another code?

Fig. 1: Diagnostic trouble codes and descriptions - all vehicles
Fig. 2: Diagnostic trouble codes and descriptions - all vehicles

SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A HEATER CORE THAT IS ALIITLE CLOGGED UP TAKE THE HEATER HOSE OFF TO HEATER CORE AND FLUSH IT OUT WITH A WATER HOSE.THE OTHER REASON IS YOU ARE LOSING VACUUM TO YOUR BLEND DOOR VACUUM SOLENOID.ARE IT IS BAD. THATS THE ONLY TWO THINGS IF YOU HAVE GOOD FLOW

i have the same car and it did the same thing when i got it take it to a dealership there are 2 flashes for the bcm body control module that will recalibrate the automatic temp contol and that should fix the problem

Code 23= Blend door feedback control


On cars with automatic climate control: To enter diagnostic mode, set the temperature to 75F, press the the off button. Press Floor, Defrost\Floor, Front Defrost simutaneously for 3 seconds until the temperature display begins to flash.
On cars without automatic climate control, set the blower to any speed, turn the temperature control in between warm and cold. Press Floor, Defrost\Floor, and Front Defrost. All codes will flash via the Front Defrost button.
When the test is over all fault codes will be displayed (on cars without automatic climate control, they will be blinked out on the Front Defrost button).
Code Action
23 Blend door feedback control
24 ATC mode door feedback failure
25 Ambient temperture sensor failure
26 ATC in-car sensor
27 Sun sensor failure
31 ATC recirculate door stall failure
32 ATC blend door failure
33 ATC mode door stall failure
34 Engine temperture sense failure
35 Evap temperature sense failure
36 ATC head command failure

Run the OBD diagnostic with the ATC self test feature. I bet you'll find a faulty blend door or motor....accordianman PS Three Pounds??!!?

It is not a coolant leak. Nice try though. It is possible that the infra red temp sensor is faulty, also it may be a mode door(directs air flow in the heater box) or a mode door actuator. Your dealer can test for proper door actuation, and can also check temperature difference, some is not uncommon, but it depends on the temp setting, is this a dual zone, or tri-zone atc unit?