How do I secure the camshaft gears on a 2002 outback 2.5l to remove and repalce?

Thank you Mark! So can I install the cam gears on the cams before I install the heads back onto the block, provided the cams are installed inside the heads already, which they will be? Thank you Mark! So can I install the cam gears on the cams before I install the heads back onto the block, provided the cams are installed inside the heads already, which they will be?

Also, this debacle with the engine sounds like it is up top. It doesn't sound like a knocking or a ticking sound, more like a clanging sound and coming from the top end, so I am assuming one of the valves broke. The thing is, I just did a timing job prior to this happening, so the machine shop is the only one who messed with the valves, as he installed new seals on them and the only thing that I did, which I thought may have caused the presumed bent valve was while attempting to tighten the cam gear, after the newly machined head was installed, the driver side cam gear sprung back 90 degrees counter clock wise when we were trying to hold onto it, but the belt was not installed yet. Do you think this would have caused one of the valves to bend or damage. The engine was driven for at least 100 miles, after the install, and was running perfect? Also, this debacle with the engine sounds like it is up top. It doesn't sound like a knocking or a ticking sound, more like a clanging sound and coming from the top end, so I am assuming one of the valves broke. The thing is, I just did a timing job prior to this happening, so the machine shop is the only one who messed with the valves, as he installed new seals on them and the only thing that I did, which I thought may have caused the presumed bent valve was while attempting to tighten the cam gear, after the newly machined head was installed, the driver side cam gear sprung back 90 degrees counter clock wise when we were trying to hold onto it, but the belt was not installed yet. Do you think this would have caused one of the valves to bend or damage. The engine was driven for at least 100 miles, after the install, and was running perfect?

If your install would have bent valve you would have known as soon as you started it...have you checked that rocker arms are tight?? If your install would have bent valve you would have known as soon as you started it...have you checked that rocker arms are tight??

sorry you have overhead cam....im answering someone elses question with simuler problems... sorry you have overhead cam....im answering someone elses question with simuler problems...

if you timed it properly and it started up first time then you did not bend valves ,about the only way you could have done that would be if car was completly out of time and you tried to start it. Have you checked the cam gears make sure tight,,and let me ask you does your car have timing belt or chain.. if you timed it properly and it started up first time then you did not bend valves ,about the only way you could have done that would be if car was completly out of time and you tried to start it. Have you checked the cam gears make sure tight,,and let me ask you does your car have timing belt or chain..

It has a belt and although I haven't removed the cover yet, the belt seems to be tight and the cam gears are slipped over keys, so they cannot spin. I will surely find out more and keep you posted when I remove the engine as soon as I can get to it. The reason I opted to swop out the engine versus just fixing the top end, if that is the case, is because, when I drained and opened the oil pan, expecting to find a detached oil pick-up I noticed a shaving from a journal bearing. Whether it be from and main bearing or rod bearing I don't know, but figured I'd cut my losses and by the short block, with the 3 yr warranty, then address what is going on upstairs, when I find out. It has a belt and although I haven't removed the cover yet, the belt seems to be tight and the cam gears are slipped over keys, so they cannot spin. I will surely find out more and keep you posted when I remove the engine as soon as I can get to it. The reason I opted to swop out the engine versus just fixing the top end, if that is the case, is because, when I drained and opened the oil pan, expecting to find a detached oil pick-up I noticed a shaving from a journal bearing. Whether it be from and main bearing or rod bearing I don't know, but figured I'd cut my losses and by the short block, with the 3 yr warranty, then address what is going on upstairs, when I find out.

This whole thing is really throwing for a loop since stock boxer engines, excluding the high performance ones reportedly get 300k out of them, provided the maintenance is kept up, so next time I think I will just lease my Subaru and let someone else take the heat. Ofcourse I will, with down payment and everything else included I will be paying around 10k for the first 3 years and who knows what else? I'm still torn! This whole thing is really throwing for a loop since stock boxer engines, excluding the high performance ones reportedly get 300k out of them, provided the maintenance is kept up, so next time I think I will just lease my Subaru and let someone else take the heat. Ofcourse I will, with down payment and everything else included I will be paying around 10k for the first 3 years and who knows what else? I'm still torn!