1995 1999 BMW 318ti 1991 1997 BMW 318is 1991 1998 BMW 318i 1996 BMW Z3 1997 1998 BMW Z3 1 9L L4 Endless closed chain without Masterlink Part Number 11 31 1 739 480 eBay
Hi some of them have a belt but yours being the M43 engine is a chain, the only thing to listen for with them is chain slap or an rattling around the chain area, a bit of research on the M43 engine also shows that the chain should be changed after 100000 miles as they become weak, Just joined here and found this unsolved i know its a bit late but hope the extra info helps
Remove the cam cover, remove the spark plugs, turn the engine to number 1 TDC, put a pencil in spark plug hole number one and twist the crank back and forth and make doubly sure you are at TDC. Now loosen the four bolts at the front of each cam sprocket, check TDC again with the pencil and rocking the crank, now take the pencil and lay it across the flats at the back of each cam. Twist the cams very carefully so that the pencil sits flat on each cam square. Snug up the sprocket bolts and use the pencil to check TDC again! Now check the cams again. Repeat the procedure until you have the cams flat and the engine at TDC.
I believe 150k or 200k. can't remeber. it should be in your owners manual. If u r worried about it breaking or stretching u should replace it and not risk.
From BMW 318/325/M3/525/535/M5 1989-1993 Repair Information
Timing Chain Cover REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
M30 Engine
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove the cylinder head cover. Remove the distributor cap, rotor and rotor adapter.
Drain the coolant to below the level of the thermostat and remove the thermostat housing cover.
Remove the mounting bolts and note the lengths and positions of the bolts. Remove the upper timing case cover.
Remove the fan, vibration damper and hub. Remove the water pump
pulley. The power steering pump must be removed, leaving the pump hoses
connected and supporting the pump out of the way but so the hoses are
not stressed.
Remove the piston which tensions the timing chain, working carefully because of very high spring pressure.
Detach the tdc position sender.
Loosen all the oil pan bolts, and then unscrew all the bolts from
the lower timing case cover, noting their lengths for reinstallation in
the same positions. Carefully, use a sharp bladed tool to separate the
gasket at the base of the lower timing cover. Then, remove the cover.
To install:
Check the condition of the oil pan gasket; replace if necessary.
To install the lower cover, first coat the joints of the oil pan and
block with sealer. Put it into position on the block, using new gaskets.
Install the tensioning piston with the conical end of the spring
against the plug. Install all bolts; then tighten the lower front cover
bolts evenly; finally, tighten the oil pan bolts evenly. Torque the
timing cover M6 bolts to 6-7 ft. lbs. (8-10 Nm) and the M8 bolts to
15-17 ft. lbs. (20-24 Nm). Tighten the oil pan M6 bolts to 6.5-8.0 ft.
lbs. (9-11 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 13-15 ft. lbs. (18-22 Nm).
To bleed the tensioner, fill the tensioner pocket where the piston
contacts the tensioner rail with oil. Loosen the plug a few threads and
move the tensioner rail back and forth until oil comes out of the plug
threads and resistance is felt. Tighten the plug to 21-29 ft. lbs.
(30-40 Nm).
Inspect the hub of the vibration damper. If the hub is scored,
install the radial seal so the sealing lip is in front of or to the rear
of the scored area. Lubricate the seal with oil and install it with a
sealer installer.
Install the pulley/damper and torque the bolt to specifications.
When installing, make sure the key and keyway are properly aligned.
Install the tdc transmitter and its mounting bracket.
Install the power steering pump and water pump pulley. Reinstall and tension all belts.
Just before installing the upper timing case cover, check the
condition of that area of the head gasket. It will usually be in good
condition. If it should show damage, it must be replaced.
Before installing the upper cover, use sealer to seal the joint
between the back of the lower timing cover and block at the top. On some
vehicles, there are sealer wells which are to be filled with sealer. If
these are present, fill them carefully. Install new gaskets. Check the
seal at the distributor drive and replace it, if necessary.
Note that the top bolt on the driver's side and the bottom bolt on
the passenger's side are longer. Tighten the 2 bolts that run down into
the lower timing cover first to finger tight; torque the 6 bolts, then
torque the bottom bolts. Torque the timing cover M6 bolts to 6-7 ft.
lbs. (8-10 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 15-17 ft. lbs. (20-24 Nm).
Inspect the sealing O-rings and replace, as necessary. Make sure
the bolt at the center of the rotor has its seal in place and torque to
16-17 ft. lbs. (22-24 Nm). Install the rotor and distributor cap.
Install the cylinder head cover. Install the thermostat and
housing with a new O-ring. Fill the cooling system with coolant and
bleed.
M42 Engine
Remove the ignition leads and valve cover. Remove the cam position
sender on the upper cover. Drain the coolant and remove the thermostat
housing. Remove the thermostat.
Remove the 11 bolts holding the upper timing cover. Remove the cover carefully to avoid damaging the head gasket.
Remove the radiator, fan, belts and water pump pulley. The water pump does not need to be removed to remove the lower cover.
Remove the damper and the crankshaft hub.
Remove the 21 bolts and remove the cover.
To install:
Check the engine block dowel sleeves. Install new gaskets on the
cover. Check the condition of the radial seals and replace if necessary.
Install the cover and torque the M6 bolts to 6-7 ft. lbs. (8-10 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 15-17 ft. lbs. (20-24 Nm).
Install the crankshaft hub and damper. Install the water pump pulley and belts. Install the fan and radiator.
Place sealer at the head gasket to cover joints. Place the upper
cover with new gaskets. Install 2 bolts and press the upper cover into
place by wedging down against the camshaft sprocket. Torque the M6 bolts
to 6-7 ft. lbs. (8-10 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 15-17 ft. lbs. (20-24
Nm).
Install the valve cover and ignition leads. Install the thermostat
and cover. Install the cam position sender. Fill the cooling system
with coolant mixture and bleed.
M50 Engine
Remove the ignition coils and valve cover. Drain the coolant and remove the thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat.
Remove the 8 bolts holding the upper timing cover. Remove the cover carefully to avoid damaging the head gasket.
Remove the radiator, fan, belts and water pump pulley. The water pump does not need to be removed to remove the lower cover.
Remove the damper and the crankshaft hub.
Remove the 13 bolts and remove the cover.
To install:
Check the engine block dowel sleeves. Install new gaskets on the
cover. Check the condition of the radial seals and replace if necessary.
Install the cover and torque the M6 bolts to 6-7 ft. lbs. (8-10 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 15-17 ft. lbs. (20-24 Nm).
Install the crankshaft hub and damper. Install the water pump pulley and belts. Install the fan and radiator.
Place the upper cover with new gaskets. Torque the M6 bolts to 6-7
ft. lbs. (8-10 Nm) and the M8 bolts to 15-17 ft. lbs. (20-24 Nm).
Install the valve cover and ignition coils. Install the thermostat
and cover. Fill the cooling system with coolant mixture and bleed.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
No timing marks. All done with special tools. Pin for crankshaft at gearbox end, camshaft alignment tools, cam locking tool, chain tesion tool. If you havent done it before, leave it to a professional.
most likely to get the timming marks on a bmw you have to buy the service manual its hard to fid it on the internet without having to pay for it as well and with a book you will have it forever. but its comon to have the crank timing mark in the harmonic balencer and put it to zero ont the timing cover marks the cams can be in a variaty of ways depending on duel or single cams duel usualy marks point to each other or oppasat each other single usaly are lined up with the valve cover serface of the head pointing out
Cylinder #1 set at TDC, compression stroke. Cam marks level with head, aligned with mark on cover, or if unclear where to mark the cam: SET Cam at point where intake valve has just closed and both valves are shut on cyl. #1, cam gear marks should start to appear more clearly to technician, along with corresponding alignment points. This is ballpark. Remember, on clockwise rotation, after cylinder #1 intake valve(s) are shut, the cam will continue to rotate 90 degrees and come to rest at a position in which both exhaust and intake valves are at their maximum lash point. (the most play) Hopefully if you get this close, you will decipher the marks that exist on your Bavarian machine.
×