1.8 gdi petrol engine loss of power

is this AFRICA KB240 , 2.4L petrol.?????????
we have no KB here in USA not a one. no parts, no books on it. (heck no WIKI on KB. ouch)
so it starts and drives ok/
but idle surges (up/down RPM) means PCM can not control IDLE RPM at all, and has many causes.
you can drive it fast and even up hills or at WOT.?

but only stopping at say a stop sign the engine surges.
well lets work that 1 problem if is just 1.
EGR struck open, is common. (if has one)
IAC stuck the idle air controls valve is stuck and needs cleaning, of gunk off it
thermostat not bad, 180F (82c) is good but 150 is bad. hot normal engine.
VVT failing . if has VVT. (cam timing variable)
VVT engine most times have no EGR valve.
spark wires bad, seen on new cars with no COPS.
seen with COIL packs and 4 HV logs and 4 HV wires
and HV wires bad, or just one.
as I said no books here on KB at all. zero.
as in service manuals.

why double post same question? (no turbo right?,GDI it is.
DOHC or SOHC engine version here. twin cam or single.?
your not in the USA , as benzine here is gasoline and in EU it is petrol so do not sniff the benzine, (Lol ,grin)
not one bit of proof the Throttle body is bad (I bet NOT)
The gas pedal is a throttle.
newer cars have TBW, throttle by wire, means electric motor driven throttle. and yes the do fail but the PCM tells you it did or did not.
All shops on earth scan the PCM first , so can you, do it or get it scanned or omg even buy the tool for $100.
evidence.
car engine cranks ok, GrrrrrGRRRR sounds hear for 20 years but not now?
ok starter works but engine fails top start or stalls fast. and RPM gauge goes to 0 RPM means stalled.
ok engine runs RPM 800 hot or 1500 cold are normal
ok I step on the GAS (means throttle pedal)
and engine RACES fast RPM to 2500 is easy to do.<??????
okay, I lift right foot and step on the brake pedal and shift to DRive or reverse and car drives normal but not today, i have gross engine power lost. or transmission will not upshift to all gears.(DRIVE)
if a manual (stick) box you shift the gears not it.<< pure love me.

if only power loss(engine power) loss that is far far more complex
even up to 25 shop tests to find it, or more. FATE rules here
what will be, will be. 1 step and 1 test at a time. we can post all tests but that be silly lacking full evidence not told.

this engine (both) has timing belt on the cam
if it fails at 60,000miles as they all love to do , the cam slips. time.
and power flags. (loss)
or worse valves hit piston tops and the end iS now BOOM.

60k miles is 100kmeters. miles driven on this belt.

I decode your post as Throttle pedal acts dead or partially./

key on scan the PCM, first.
using a scan tool that works in our UNSTATED COUNTRY.
USA OBD2.
EU, EOBD
japan , JBOD
and vastly more world wide. never post lacking country or you will get wrong answer even all , even mine. (learn that)
good luck sniffing dah benzine./

NO YEAR CAR TOLD
NO COUNTRY
NO ENGINE, NOT TOLD GAS OR DIESEL EITHER?
seem the throttle cables are jammed, rusty. kinked or just too old now.
or IAC VAVLE STUCK OPEN
OR TB, VALVE INSIDE IS ALL GUNKED UP AND NEVER SERVICED
(CLEANED)
TB = THROTTLE BODY.

not posted if this is a diesel or a petrol engine but it will be between the inlet manifold and the exhaust manifold ,sorry if this vague but iam not a dealer fitter working on only one brand but a back street cowboy who works on anything and the secret here is to look first and follow all the pipes to see where it is

sounds like either a vacuum leak (check the bottom of the "tomatoe juice can" for starters) or a bad or plugged egr valve or egr solenoid.
check engine lite refers to emissions probs only...most likely egr or vac leak. Had the same prob on my 95 5.0 f150...needed new can and egr valve.

Hello. First check any pipes on the engine has not come of and listen for any hissing noises as it could be too much air getting into the system. It is also worth checking the crank sensor and volvo do have problems with the EGR valves.

Sounds like its time for a tune up. Start there and your mechanic will be able to note any other abnormal conditions. change fuel/air filter and any other maintenance items you haven't done so far.

THE GDI ENGINE SUFFERS FROM EXTREME "COKING" - DEPOSITS THAT STICK AROUND THE VALVES AND PREVENT PROPER OPERATION, RESULTING IN POWER LOSS. REPAIR CAN BE EXTENSIVE AND COSTLY ESPECIALY IF YOU START TO HEAR A RATTLE ON IDLE. THE FIRST STEP I WOULD SUGGEST IS, TRY USING FUEL ADDITIVES SUCH AS WURTH FUEL/GAS/VALVE TREATMENT THESE ADDITIVES ARE QUITE CAPABLE OF CLEARING OR CLEANING CONTAMINATED PARTS IN TIME.

Loss of power on inclines means a BAD EGR. They're cheap, don't clean it, the diaphragm is BAD. Replace the EGR valve and you're good to go friend.First indication of a faulty EGR is loss of power on an incline/hill.

My 1998 Volvo does the same sometimes. Better petrol helps for me, these engines like the higher octane petrol. My car does not like the BP petrol at all for example.