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Ran out of gas, tried to restart many times- cranks but won't start, turned hazards on, returned filled gas- plenty, batt. now dead, charged and jumped- wouldn't start (did I blow the EEC/PCM if I charged with key in the ON position- for the hazads?), towed home. Checked fuel shut-off/ inertia switch- hadn't popped, removed fuel filter, primed fuel pump- 4-5 oz of gas came out, replaced filter, tested Schrader valve- seems to have sufficient psi, hmmmmm...?
Checked spark- no spark and plugs wet (what happened?). Took the ignition control module to O'Reilly's- everything passed, rented OBD- no codes, looked up test for ignition coil and misread the test- bought a coil without need, bought plugs and wires, replaced all three, tried the test again- I get a light on my test light at the (+) wire to the coil and the (-) wire to the coil, however, when I crank the engine the test light does not flash as the test said it should when connected to the (-) wire of the ignition coil. So, I am told to check wiring from EEC to ign. coil at the EEC looking for a constant light- couldn't identify wire and gave up on that. If the light had consant light the wire could be deemed ok and now the driver/transistor in the EEC would need to be looked into through examining the powers/ grounds to the EEC, but more probably the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor and then the EEC itself.
This is where I am now. I want to test the two sensors and I want to know if I have properly narrowed the problem down to the sensors, EEC, and wires between them using the ignitiion coil test or if something else could be wrong like a problem in the distributor (PIP sensor?)
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If all said is true, squirt some brake clean into the throttlebody and if it starts, replace your fuel filter. If it doesn't fire, the timing belt is gone. This is an assumption you've a standard 3.0, If a 24 valve, your motor is likely trashed.
Lets start at the beginning. You say it cranks but will not start, right ? The warning lights are supposed to come on with the key on and then go off once the engine starts. If the engine cranks but will not start, someone will need to figure out if it is lacking fuel to the injectors or spark to the plugs, or something else. One way we check it is to look for spark at the plugs, check the fuel pressure, and try starting fluid in the throttle body.
Most Fords have a fuel reset button. When you ran out of gas you tripped the circuit. Most of the time the button will be on the passenger side by the kick panel. The exact location should be in your owners manual or your local library or auto parts store will have a copy of one for your specific vehicle.
Anything done to car, or happened recently that might affect this? If starter fluid doesn't work, and starter is cranking normally (too fast may point to a timing belt broke, too slow may mean battery run down and not producing sufficient spark), there's still a problem in your ignition. Pull a sparkplug or two. After cranking a little they should be wet with gas. Check for compression while a plug is out: hold your finger over plug hole when cranking. You should feel pressure buildup and release over and over as long as cranking. A properly timed engine needs spark, fuel, and compression to start. Keep reviewing your procedure. Something is not right. You may want to have the computer scanned for possible trouble codes. Check plug wires for proper routing. Were plugs gapped right?
It is one of two things. Crank shaft sensor, on timing cover, behind crank pulley. Or the camshaft syncronizer, or the camshaft sensor (sits on top of Camshaft syncronizer) Located on drivers side end of engine, in what used to be the home of the old type distributor.
Its not the oil, increasing temperature will thin out the oil. If it cranks easily but won't start it could be the spark plugs or the spark plug wires. When they heat up, especially if they are old, they won't perform well. Pull off one of the wires and hold it close to the plug, try to crank the engine and look for a spark. If it sparks them try removing a plug and check to see if it looks wet. If its bone dry it might not be getting fuel.
try pushinjg the valve in the fuel line where the injectors are their is a valve which looks like a car tyre valve ,turn ignition on and crank whilst pushing this valve in till petrol comes out
First, verify that there is gas in the vehicle. Next, listen for the pump to energize when you turn the ignition switch to the on position. If you dont hear anything, check the fuel pump relay. Swap it with another one next to it, they are often the same part. If it still doesn't energize, its most likely the pump thats failed. If you hear the pump energize, then the pump pressure needs to be checked. A fuel gauge needs to be connected under the hood on the fuel rail to read system pressure. Verify that its at factory specs. If not, replace the pump.
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