CHANGE SPARK PLUGS, AND SPARK PLUG WIRES, REPLACE DISTRIBUITOR, REPLACE CRANK SHAFT POSITION SENSOR, REPLACE BATTTERY, CLEAN AND CHECK FUEL PUMP, CLEAN AND CHECK INJECTION SYSTEM, CHECK VALVES AND REPLACE ONE HEAD CYLINDER, THE LAST REPLACEMENT WAS THE IGNITION COIL, AND STILL ENGINE STALL
Sounds as if you may have a vacuum leak; possibly a dirty/sticking idle air control valve, or dirty/sticking EGR valve. Could possibly be clogged converter or muffler as well.
SOURCE: 1997 dodge dakota v6 engine wont start replaced
turn the key to the on position a see if you can here a buzzing sound around the fuel tank,if you don't hear a sound then. (be very careful while doing this) with the key off take a fuel line coming from the tank loose,make sure its pointed away from you and turn the key to the on position,see if any gas comes out,if not then your fuel pump is probably bad.
SOURCE: I have a 1996 dodge neon the car starts for about
check power distribution center.if ok you have a faulty ignition component.
SOURCE: 96 Dodge Intrepid ES, engine stalls
Find your firewall electrical junction block (where all the wires enter the cabin on the passenger side) and with a zip tie pull up the wire bundle so it does not ride on the upper tie rods and, fasten the zip tie to anything that is solid in the engine compartment and, let me know what happens
SOURCE: how to test a crankshaft on a 1993 Dodge Dakota
check your catalytic converter for clogged up.
disconnect the exhaust pipe before the cat and run the engine to see if it still cut off.
if it run better, then that's the problem
SOURCE: 1997 Dodge Intrepid cranks over won't fire
I have this same NO START problem...
Began with tach giving readings not exceding 1200 rpm with strange 4000 + spikes.. Cruse control would not turn on or off at times and indicator light would only work sometimes..Had several episodes of excessive cranking to get it to start.. Stalling out while driving and even at freeway speeds.. Pulling the negative cable for 10 min. allowed it to start although with lots of cranking and put it in limp mode which required another computer reset to get out of.. Had thrown error codes related to cam and crank sensors which were replaced along with coil and manifold temp sensors.. Had the 9 volt power to sensors when key was on but the check engine light does not stay on with all the other idiot lights..
I wish people who respond would read the post first..
Original post states,
Cranks,No spark,No fuel pump run, changed some sensors ect...
If it cranks it ain't the neutral safety switch, starter or battery!! WAKE UP!!
Seems the computer is not turning on the coil, injectors or fuel pump for a reason.. Find that reason and you will find the solution to the problem.. Seeing as that the computers logic states are a dealer secrete the poster as I have changed many parts in blind hope that it will fix the problem.. Relays, sensors and ecu computer.. Did a visual check of all harness potential wear spots like where it crosses over the power rack..
Could it be in the wiring harness inside the dash??
Could it be a bad ground??
Can an alternator that has failed cause the computer not to start??
Can a bad oil pressure sensor cause the computer not to start??
Can signal loss from the TCU or BCU to the ECU cause this??
Is there an undocumented kill if the ECU thinks it was in an accident??
I can ground the relay line from the ECU and the fuel pump runs and pressures up and the other relays turn on as well..
This crank but no start problem seems to be common with a lot of 1994-2001 Dodge and Chrysler owners.. All these systems have become interlaced with undocumented safety features that baffle the DIYer..If you have seen this and have fixed it PLEASE RESPOND!!!!
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