What is the correct sequence in bleeding a 2007 chrysler pacifica with ABS brakes?

Although many people believe that the order makes a difference in their particular vehicle, there are many others who service many different makes and models of vehicles and generally conclude that the order makes no difference.

"I have investigated this brake bleeding sequence controversy and went interviewing professional mechanics from Porsche, Mercedes Benz, Toyota, Volkswagen etc. including from Pep Boys just to get to the bottom of the story. If you use the pressure or vacuum bleeding or the manual pedal method correctly, the sequence does not matter.

So I built a test rig using clear and transparent brake lines with 4 different color brake fluids. Whether you start from the farthest or the nearest brake caliper, the brake system could be bled correctly without compromising safety. This is a myth (RR, LR, FR, FL sequence) that has been accepted by most people.

What I found out was that people who use the farthest method sequence have not tried other sequences because they believe it is the only way to do it. While others who used random bleeding succesfully know sequence is not mandatory."

I'm a "random bleeder" myself, and have never had a problem. I simply proceed either clockwise or anti-clockwise around the car, for simplicity.

Modern ABS systems require special tools to bleed them. In any case if the system has air in it then you have a problem that must be repaired. Anytime the lights are in the dash the system will record a fault code or codes, have the ABS codes scanned.

Could be one of your wheel speed sensors is out. The ABS and traction control are linked on most vehicles so when the sensor is bad it will disable the traction control. The best thing to do would be to get it scanned and see what code the computer is throwing.

check your sensors one is probebly grounding out

abs controll modual could be falty

Have the vehicle checked for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's , lights on codes are stored . The code or codes will point to a diagnostic direction

This system is equipped with active ABS brakes, a special tool that holds the valves open for bleeding in the ABS hydraulic control block must be uses to bleed the brakes. Any good brake shop will have this tool, there is no way around this, you must use the tool to bleed the air out of the system.

you may have blockage in that right side like the rubber hose collapsed inside,loosen all connections one at a time, start at caliper end then hose connection I would guess first the caliper bleed screw blocked

They are having problems with the ABS wheel sensors on these. They replaced mine under warranty

As a general rule, if you have ABS you might have to cycle the pumps and valves to purge the old fluid out of the unit. This is either done via a dealer scan tool, a purge valve/bleeder valve on the ABS unit, or a less than ethical way. Drive your car and heavily engage the ABS, you know what I'm talking about.
Then you will need to repeat the bleeding process that you have already done.
Normal non ABS brakes, bleed once.
ABS brakes, bleed, cycle then bleed again.