Front bumper Needs to be lifted up about inch or so when the tread from right side tire came off the bumper got slamed down also the wiring to the right side front lights also got shredded

alignment or worn steering/suspension if rear tires alignment or something bent

1. What brand and model of tire was fitted?

2. Please describe the wear pattern on the front tires in more detail. For example is the excessive tread wear.....
A. Right across the face of the tread on each tire or
B. On the outside edges of the tread on each tire or
C. on the inside edges of the tread on each tire or
D. on both sides of the tread but not on the center section of the tread on both tires.
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B is normally caused by incorrect toe setting - toe in
C is also normally caused by incorrect toe setting - toe out
D is normally caused by tire pressure set way too low.

Faulty steering and suspension components can also cause abnormal tire wear for any component that affects the wheel alignment settings.
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If you can provide a better description of the tire wear on each front tire you will get a better answer.

The 2008 CTS is the same as my 2009 CTS.
To access the any of the bulbs, you need to remove the bumper/grille assembly.
I just did mine and installed some aftermarket HID bulbs.
If you have some skill and patience, it will take you around an hour.
I'll try to remember all the steps, but I did find a video on youtube that shows it very well:
Remove the long plastic cover over the radiator, by unscrewing the 6 plastic clips. There some rubber molding attached, but you can just flip the cover over on top of the engine.
This exposes 2 10mm screws that can be removed - they'll look like they are attached to the grille. Don't remove them yet.
If front of each front tire in the edge of the wheel well, there are two plastic pins. The pins are actually two pieces, pry the center piece straight out about a quarter inch, then the whole pin can be popped out.
Under the front lower edge are 5-7 similar clips that need to be removed the same way. There about 15-20 of them under there, but you don't have to remove them all. I recall that two of them are upside down.
Now he scary part.... back to the wheel well. Get a flashlight. I recall the inner fender is under the bumper edge; it needs to be pulled out from behind the bumper. Then pull the inner fender backwards from the bumper; it's very stiff, but you need to pull it about 3/4" and look straight up through the gap. There is a 10mm screw, about one inch from the edge of the bumper/fender. This screw holds the bumper to the fender. Use a 10mm socket and a long extension to remove it. (do both sides)
Then you can firmly pull the side of the bumper sideways from the car.
There are 4 of those plastic pin/clips to removed under the hood, next to the headlight. Then you can remove the two 10mm screws under the hood, and the bumper can be lifted off.

Each of the headlight housings are held on by two 10mm screws and a 10mm nut. The is one electrical connector to unclip.

There are 3 covers on each housing. Each cover is held on by 3 8mm? screws. Your low beam is the top bulb.

Your shop is lying to you. They would cause front tire wear, but not rear.
murf427

Tires out of balance? Start with the simple things before changing stuff like axle shafts. Take the car to a tire shop and make sure the tires are balanced and the rims aren't bent, as either one of these can cause a rough ride

You have a bad right front wheel bearing. You need to stop driving this car and have this repaired immediately.

Hello alt.... There are several possible causes.


1. Test drive the car. Start with the windows down. Find a parking lot or somewhere relatively quiet so the noises can be heard. Drive straight at 20 miles per hour and lightly apply the brakes. Listen for squealing, rubbing or grinding; this would indicate worn brake pads. Slow the car to 10 miles per hour and make a sharp turn in both directions. If you hear a clicking noise, the CV joints are bad and need to be replaced. If you hear a grinding noise when driving straight ahead slowly, the hub bearings are bad. Come to a stop and turn the wheel in both directions. If a grinding noise is present, the top bearing plate is suspect and must be checked further. Put the car in park and get out. Push up and down on the front end of the car. If a squealing noise is present, the struts or control arm bushings are bad and need further inspection. Take the car home to continue the inspection.

2 Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and position the jack stands under the frame. Let the car down on the jack stands.

3 Grasp the tire on both sides and attempt to wobble it left and right; if there is any movement with no corresponding movement in the steering wheel, one or both tie rod ends are loose and need to be replaced. Have a helper wobble the tire while you slide under the car and observe the inner and outer tie rods ends. This is the link from the rack and pinion steering to the steering knuckle. Place a hand on the outer tie rod end as the tire is being moved; if you can feel freeplay, the outer joint needs to be replaced. Place a hand on the inner tie rod shaft; if you can feel it moving in and out with the movement of the tire, the inner tie rod is faulty.

4 Look at the tire for uneven wear indicating an alignment problem. Spin the tire slowly and look for flat spots, humps in the tread or wire protruding from the tread indicating a separated tire.

5 Grab the tire at the top and bottom and shake the tire in and out; if you can feel any freeplay, the hub bearing is bad and needs replacement.

6 Place the pry bar under the tire. Lift up and release several times; if the tire can be lifted with very little pressure the lower ball joint is bad and needs replacing.

7 Remove the tire/wheel assembly. Place your hand on the coil spring on the strut and have a helper turn the steering wheel to the left and right; if you can feel any grinding, the top bearing cap on top of the strut is defective and needs to be replaced.

8 Inspect the strut for leakage around the seals. Replace if they are leaking.

9 Inspect the brake pads and rotors for wear and replace as necessary.

10 Inspect the sway bar front bushing where it is mounted under the radiator and make sure it is in place. Inspect the sway bar links on the ends of the sway bar where they connect to the lower control arm. They consist of a long bolt with a series of rubber bushings held on to the lower control arm by a nut. Replace these if they are loose or have any worn parts. They are a major noise problem

lift rear gate, you will find a hole on lower right, right above bumper
take squarish rod end of one of the black rods that come with jack kit and slide it in hole and turn it clock wise until tire comes down. Do not use "j" side use square side.

It could be tires out of balance, it could be a broken belt in a tire or a bent rim. To check for a broken belt or bent rim, jack the wheel off the ground and spin it. Watch it from the front and see if there is any wobble. A rim will wobble side to side and a broken belt will be a lump on the tread.
It could also be worn shocks. To check them put your knee on the bumper and give the truck 3 good pushes down and then let it go. It should come up and go part way down once and stop if the shocks are good. If it moves more than half way down or bounces then the shocks need replacing even if they are not leaking.
Hope this helps.

My Death Wobble started immediately after I installed a set of Coil Spring Spacers (to lift 1.75 inches). Turned out, the DW was because while changing the height, I also lowered the CASTER angle in the front end. So, to fix it, I could have purchased a set of eccentric bolts for $50+. Instead I went out and purchased a piece of 1.5 inch flat bar for $10 from OSH. I cut out 4 1.5 inch squares. Then i drilled 7/16 inch holes centerline, but close to one side (in exactly the same place) on all for squares. I then removed the lower control arm bolts, nuts and washers. I installed these square offset washers I made so the front axle would be pushed forward (to increase the Caster angle). The toe setting changed a bit, so I reset them to about 1/8 inch toe in. After driving my Jeep, I noticed there is no more DW. The steering wheel was off center, but after 3 attempts, I have that perfectly centered. I have every intension of having the alignment checked, but not till after I find the new tires I want. If anyone is interested, I can draw out and photograph the cure and send it to you. My e-mail is bb62471(at)yahoo(dot)com.