The airbag light turned on. my car is like new so this was unexpected. i took it to get diagnosed at advance auto and it read a code of air tempature senosor. how does that make the airbag signal turn on? how do i resett it? if 1 isnt associatted with the other how do i figure out what made the airbag light turn on?
SOURCE: check engine light
You need change the Automatic Transaxle sensor or get Automatic Transaxle serviced ,please contact the dealer get it fixed or any other service center...........
SOURCE: My Maintenance Required light flashes
The light comes on if you've gone twice as far as is recommended since your last oil change.
You can reset it by holding the odometer button in, while turning the key from off to run (not start). Hold the button in until the light goes out. Then start it.
As for the rumbling, does it rumble when in park and the gas is pressed? What about neutral with the gas pressed?
Does the rumbling coincide with a sudden change in RPM? If so, this indicates it's a gear shift issue.
SOURCE: Air condition is not cooling my car is Honda Civic 2003
Realize that auto AC is basically a refrigerator in a weird layout. It's designed to move heat from one place (the inside of your car) to some other place (the outdoors). While a complete discussion of every specific model and component is well outside the scope of this article, this should give you a start on figuring out what the problem might be and either fixing it yourself or talking intelligently to someone you can pay to fix it.Become familiar with the major components to auto air conditioning:
the compressor, which compresses and circulates the refrigerant in the system the refrigerant, (on modern cars, usually a substance called R-134a older cars have r-12 freon which is becoming increasingly more expensive and hard to find, and also requires a license to handle) which carries the heat the condenser, which changes the phase of the refrigerant and expels heat removed from the car the expansion valve (or orifice tube in some vehicles), which is somewhat of a nozzle and functions to similtaneously drop the pressure of the refrigerant liquid, meter its flow, and atomize it
the evaporator, which transfers heat to the refrigerant from the air blown across it, cooling your car
the receiver/dryer, which functions as a filter for the refrigerant/oil, removing moisture and other contaminants Understand the air conditioning process: The compressor puts the refrigerant under pressure and sends it to the condensing coils. In your car, these coils are generally in front of the radiator. Compressing a gas makes it quite hot. In the condenser, this added heat and the heat the refrigerant picked up in the evaporator is expelled to the air flowing across it from outside the car. When the refrigerant is cooled to its saturation temperature, it will change phase from a gas back into a liquid (this gives off a bundle of heat known as the "latent heat of vaporization"). The liquid then passes through the expansion valve to the evaporator, the coils inside of your car, where it loses pressure that was added to it in the compressor. This causes some of the liquid to change to a low-pressure gas as it cools the remaining liquid. This two-phase mixture enters the evaporator, and the liquid portion of the refrigerant absorbs the heat from the air across the coil and evaporates. Your car's blower circulates air across the cold evaporator and into the interior. The refrigerant goes back through the cycle again and again. Check to see if all the R-134a leaks out (meaning there's nothing in the loop to carry away heat). Leaks are easy to spot but not easy to fix without pulling things apart. Most auto-supply stores carry a fluorescent dye that can be added to the system to check for leaks, and it will have instructions for use on the can. If there's a bad enough leak, the system will have no pressure in it at all. Find one of the valve-stem-looking things and CAREFULLY (eye protection recommended) poke a pen in there to try to valve off pressure, and if there IS none, that's the problem. Make sure the compressor is turning. Start the car, turn on the AC and look under the hood. The AC compressor is generally a pumplike thing off to one side with large rubber and steel hoses going to it. It will not have a filler cap on it, but will often have one or two things that look like the valve stems on a bike tire. The pulley on the front of the compressor exists as an outer pulley and an inner hub which turns when an electric clutch is engaged. If the AC is on and the blower is on, but the center of the pulley is not turning, then the compressor's clutch is not engaging. This could be a bad fuse, a wiring problem, a broken AC switch in your dash, or the system could be low on refrigerant (most systems have a low-pressure safety cutout that will disable the compressor if there isn't enough refrigerant in the system). Look for other things that can go wrong: bad switches, bad fuses, broken wires, broken fan belt (preventing the pump from turning), or seal failure inside the compressor. Feel for any cooling at all. If the system cools, but not much, it could just be low pressure, and you can top up the refrigerant. Most auto-supply stores will have a kit to refill a system, and it will come with instructions. Do not overfill! Adding more than the recommended amount of refrigerant will NOT improve performance but actually will decrease performance. In fact, the more expensive automated equipment found at nicer shops actually monitors cooling performance real-time as it adds refrigerant, and when the performance begins to decrease it removes refrigerant until the performance peaks again.
SOURCE: what is P1361 Intermittent Interruption In TDC 1
Check out the Top Dead Center (TDC) sensor, connector 124 (gray and on the distributor) check power and grounds. It's missing signal from the TDC sensor in the distributor and causing a misfire.
The codes states that it's an intermittent loss of sensor signal, definitely sounds like wiring. Check for the obvious visual stuff first, corrosion, any cuts or holes in the wiring insulation and then start using a multimeter to check the voltage drop, continuity and resistance for all the connectors and wiring.
I suspect this may be too technical, but you asked about how to fix the problem and this is the answer.
It may be time to take the car to a qualified mechanic.
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/thebesthonda/2009-03-26_124632_4_cylinder_tdc_cyp_sensor_troubleshooting.pdf
SOURCE: stalling, 'reduced power' light, and OBD code P1125 Manufacturer control air metering...
My name is Juan Heredia and I'm an ASE certified technician. I have seen this code and this driveability issues before, I will need a little more information about your car to tell you exactly what your problem is, Honda has two different types of throttle bodies for this especific vehicle, drive by wire and cable operated, if your vehicle uses the drive by wire type I would highly recommend to replace the throttle body actuator, if it uses the cable operated one it will be necesary to do a little more testing, let me know if this helps
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