Put on a new timing belt now it wont start

U need to re-timed the engine. Check all four marks going across the two cam pully is lined up with the engine head surface.
Then check the crank pully alignment mark the single notche align to the mark on the timing cover

Before head gasket replacement have you checked these
Intake Manifold Gaskets May Leak Coolant or Engine Oil
engine or leak. In some cases, an internal coolant leak may occur causing coolant to mix with the engine oil. Our technicians tell us that operating the engine with a coolant/oil mix can result in internal engine damage. Replacing the intake manifold gasket should correct these leaks.
Leaking Water Pump May Cause Coolant Loss and Overheating
A coolant leak may develop from the . The may overheat as a result of the coolant loss. A leaking water pump should be replaced.
Headgasket replacement
step 1. undo negative battery cable or completely remove battery and tray.
step 2. remove air cleaner and associated piping if it is in the way to allow access to head, drain cooling system and remove upper radiator hose.
step 3. remove top portion of exhaust manifold.
step 4. remove intake manifold and fuel injection rail as necessary
step 5. remove spark wires and valve cover.
step 6. remove drive belts and top timing cover before removing timing belt find all alignment marks and paint to improve your visibility and aid in reassembly if no marks are present remove spark plug # 1 and rotate until piston is at tdc and check timing mark on crankshaft that it is on 0 then paint the belt and cams anything that has teeth that the timing belt rides on make a mark to aid in reassembly even if you are replacing t-belt at least you can compare to new belt and transfer marks, release tension on t-belt tensioner and remove t-belt.
step 7. remove head bolts start loosening at inside and work outwards reemove head bolts and pay attention to sizing and placement.
carefully check for anything that is still attached to head and if free tap head with rubber or dead blow hammer to free from block and lift straight up so as not to ruin or bend any of the alignment pegs.
step 8. remove head gasket material with non-scratching tools or scrapers or buff pads made for that job. making note of where it was blown.
step 9. decide if you should send head to machine shop to have mating surface made flat again and also to have valves and related parts inspected or replaced. usually about $300-$400
step 10. inspect block remove all gasket material look for pitting or scarring also use straight edge to determine if it is straight or if it needs to be resurfaced by a machine shop.
step 11. install new headgasket and check fit. If all is good reassemble in reverse order of removal and I always like to replace crank seal ,cam seal, water pump, t-belt and tensioner also thermostat, drivebelts, spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, pcv valve, intake manifold ,exhaust manifold gaskets.
this is just a broad overview hope it helps you will have to get haynes manual or similar for head torque values and what not

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.



To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponding line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.

In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.

One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it

Double check crankshaft timing mark, on your lower timing cover has some timing marks - crankshaft should be on the 0 mark. Camshaft timing marks--intake camshaft mark set at 3 o'clock and exhaust camshaft mark set a 9 o'clock. These timing marks are critical for motor to run and start correctly. These timings marks can move while trying to install the timing belt. After, you confirm or reset timing and belt, you can confirm timing is correct by rotating the crankshaft twice. Your timing marks should be on right on timing marks discussed at the top of the page. If timing marks are off, start over with timing process.

After you aligned the timing marks and tightened up the tensioner pulley, did you re-check your timing marks? Usually when you tighten the tensioner it will pull the cam and crank out of alignment. Line up the crankshaft first and then check to see where your cam gear is. If it is not lined up, loosen the tensioner and move the cam gear ahead to line it back up. If it doesn't line up perfectly then go AHEAD until the marks line up and put the belt back on. If the gear is on the mark and the belt teeth don't line up, move the gear ahead until you can get the belt on,but no more than a full tooth on the belt. Tighten your tensioner and check again. At most the cam sprocket should only be off about 1/2 tooth from the marks and it should be ahead not behind. Re-align your distributor to #1 and it should start. Hope this helps.

if u have a dohc engine and the timing was off u prob bent the valves head job needed

Is this an over head cam? Must be if it has a timing belt. OK, Pull everything off that is in the way, take fotos if you have to remember where everything went, air filter, intake, dist? anything, everything. Fan in the way? Timing cover, Expose the belt, highlight the timing marks on the cam and the crank, put the mark on the belt as well, Pull off rocker cover, Look underneath cam for head bolts, If the cam has to come off, Mark it with a white pen or a junk yard marker, Do not let it move from its position, Pull the cam, pull the head bolts, pull the head off. Check it for flat, see if it got hot and warped. If it did, you will need to get it planed. You might as well get it checked out while you got it off. Get a new gasket on there, no adhesive, no silicone, no glue, dry. You are supposed to use new bolts, but we'll let it slide. They cost about $50. Torque it down according to spec and pattern, Put the cam back on, align the marks, put the belt on, It should line up with the mark, or better yet, it has to. Set the tension on the belt, put the covers back on, you could crank the engine over by hand to make sure it is OK, then put it all back together, to make it easy to spin by hand, pull the spark plugs out. Get all the fan, air filter, intake, wires, cables, etc back on there, check the foto, fire it up. Hope this helps.

The timing marks are align in the correct position before taking the old belt off. Now you will need to turn each cam & the crank to the correct position with the belt off then install the belt

all timing gears are marked useing a small indent on the gear and the bottom pully i would say will have a small {V} look very carefully they are there.adrian

Required tools: 13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm allen head sockets 19mm socket prybar needle nose pliers If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pullys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS. Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pully ( the 4 allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pully) on the camshaft pullys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pully with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pully with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would reccomend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pullys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhause Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pully, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal. To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it, and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple. In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long. One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it