Have a saab 9000 1990 turbo 2.0 idle speed goes up to 4000 rpm when I plug the idle air control valve. I have to have it unplugged to be able to drive the car what can be wrong?

NOT told TOO HIGH OR TOO LOW, and what the RPM now.????
800 RPM hot is par for hot idle.
in USA all are cars 1988 up EFI are controlled by ECU and not the humans did with carbs in the good old days/ by LAW here.

HOT idle RPM or cold IDLE RPM.??? or both are wrong.
not told that. and is key to any cure for sure.

Toyota glanza ep91 turbo , manual

what country is it. sold to first. (market export)
1989 to /96 car?
I bet this is the real name, fully]
Toyota Starlet 1.3 Glanza V Turbo (EP91, Japan)

glanza V was powered by the turbocharged 1331 cc 4E-FTE
ECU controls actual turbo and injection rates and more.
and sold to
Japanese market, although some used private imports made their way to the UK, New Zealand, and many other right-hand drive markets.
most cars but gee 1989/96 are very old cars.
had 2 idle speed controller. (this is pure experience not your car that the USA does not have)
IAC (thermal controlled idle (coolant temp.) only
ISC (ECU control hot idle above 65C coolant temp)
this how all ours worked here, 1986 to 2000, then the ISC took over all idle controls.)
no 2 engines use same controls,
on some old cars high idle hot is caused by these factors.
1: coolant never gets to 82c(bad thermostat)
2: vacuum leaks.
3:IAC bad or ISC , clogged up, and jamming/sticking
3: ECU is stuck in limphome, idle controls suspended.
4: on our cars the EPA dictates IDLE and has no screw to set.
5: TV plate gummed up and sticks (throttle valve)

the best answer is to first buy the service manual
and read ISC page (idle speed controls) ECU controlled.
read IAC Idle Air controller. page. water temp controlled.

Three possible reasons for this are
1. You have a vacuum leak
2. The throttle position sensor (TPS) has gone bad
3. The idle air control valve is bad or blocked up.

Engine stall or RPM fluctuates at idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, Dodge has some major issues with them

The normal idle speed is below 1,000 rpm...between 800 to 900 rpm. I suspect that the idle-air control motor has seized and can no longer automatically adjust the engine's idle speed. This part is also responsible for slightly increasing idle speed when the airconditioning is switched on to compensate for the added engine load. Some cars even have a "step-up" solenoid to increase idle.

When replacing the idle-air control motor, remember to clean the port that IAC motor goes into; there will be some carbon build-up that may prevent the part's cone-shaped valve from seating properly. A can of intake valve spray helped along with some Q-tips works well.



Hope this helped.

Have a great day !!!

Check the Idle Control System

Idle speed is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). The IACV changes the amount of air being bypassed to the intake manifold, in response to electric current controlled by the ECM. When the IACV is activated, the valve opens to maintain proper idle speed.

Symptom and Subsystems to Check:

1. Difficult to start engine, when cold--check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.

2. Fast idle out of spec, when cold:
a. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
b. Check IACV.
c. Check idle adjusting screw (see Section C).

3. Rough idle:
a. Check hoses and connections.
b. Check IACV.

4. RPM too high, when warm:
a. Check IACV.
b. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
c. Check hoses and connections, check Power Steering Pressure Switch Signal, and check idle adjusting screw.

5. RPM too low, when warm:
a. Idle speed is below specified rpm, with no load--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.
b. Idle speed doesn't increase after initial start up--check IACV.
c. Idle speed drops in gear (automatic transmission)--check automatic transaxle gear position switch signal.
d. Idle speed drops when AC is on--check air conditioning signal and IACV.
e. Idle speed drops when steering wheel is turned--check power steering pressure switch signal and IACV.
f. Idle speed fluctuates with electrical load--check hoses and connections, IACV, and Alternator FR Signal.

6. Frequent stalling, while warming up--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.

7. Frequent stalling, after warming up--check idle adjusting screw and IACV.

Additional Steps:

. Check Alternator FR Signal. Have alternator inspected, if idle speed fluctuates with electrical load. The FR signal communicates to the ECM how "hard" the alternator is working to meet the electrical demands of the car, including the battery and any loads which aren't monitored by the ELD. This square-wave signal varies in pulse width, according to the load on the alternator. The ECM places, approximately, 5 reference volts on the wire. The voltage regulator will drop this signal to approximately 1.2 volts, in proportion to alternator load. The ECM compares the electrical load (ELD) signal with the FR (Charging Rate) signal from the alternator and uses that information to set the idle speed and turn the alternator on and off. This helps fuel economy.

. Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.

. Reset ECM, by removing the 7.5 amp Back Up Fuse, in the under-hood fuse box, for 10 seconds.

. Replace PCV Valve, cleaning hose with brake cleaner spray.

. Substitute a known-good ECM. If symptom goes away, replace original ECM.

Check the ICM (Erratic RPM and PGM-FI System)

When the engine is cold, the air conditioner compressor is on, the transmission is in gear (automatic transmission only) or the alternator is charging, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. Here's an overview of how the PGM-FI System works.

Background:

Various inputs to the ECM are TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor, MAP Sensor, ECT Sensor, IAT Sensor, TP Sensor, HO2S, VSS, BARO Sensor, EGR Valve Lift Sensor, Starter Signal, Alternator FR Signal, Air Conditioning Signal, Automatic Transmission Shift Position Signal, Battery Voltage (Ignition 1) Brake Switch Signal, PSP Switch Signal, ELD, and VTEC Pressure Switch.

Inputs are received and processed by the ECM's Fuel Injector Timing and Duration, Electronic Idle Control, Other Control Functions, Ignition Timing Control, and ECM Back-up Functions. These are the primary functional areas within the ECM.

Outputs from the ECM control Fuel Injectors, PGM-FI Main Relay (Fuel Pump), MIL (Check Engine Light), Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, A/C Compressor Clutch Relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve, HO2S Heater, EGR Control Solenoid Valve, Alternator, Lock-up Solenoid Valve A/B (A/T), VTEC Solenoid Valve, and Interlock Control Unit.

Idle RPM:

Once you understand how the PGM-FI system is configured, it's easy to see how the ECM, Idle Air Control Valve, and the Ignition Control Module affect idle rpm. If the ECM's Electronic Idle Control function is not working properly, then it cannot properly control the IAC Valve. Likewise, if the ECM's Ignition Timing Control function is not operating properly, it cannot properly control the ICM (igniter). Obviously, idle rpm will also be affected if there's a problem with the IAC Valve or the ICM. As stated above, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. This cannot happen if the IAC Valve is failing. The same situation exists if the ICM is failing. The ECM will tell the ICM to open and close the primary voltage circuit going to the coil and it won't respond properly. The result will be erratic spark plug firing and erratic rpm.

Conclusion:

If you are experiencing erratic idle rpm, try and isolate whether the problem is caused by the ICM (ignitor), IAC Valve, or the ECM. My experience has been that a failing ICM is usually responsible for the problem. Keep in mind that tachometers are connected directly to the ICM. Therefore, a fluctuating tachometer needle is often a dead giveaway. Heat and poor preventive maintenance (causing high secondary voltage to be discharge on internal distributor components) frequently causes the ICM (and coil) to fail. Besides performance, this is another reason why it's important to regularly replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotors, and distributor caps. Electricity will always follow the path of least resistance, even if it isn't the intended one. Our job is to ensure the intended path is the path of least resistance.

Ignitor (ICM) and Coil Replacement:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove hex head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8 mm nut driver.
3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.
4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.
5. Remove rotor and leak cover.
6. Unfasten ignitor wires, remove coil mounting screws, and set coil aside. Note: Removing coil first improves access to igniter.
7. Unfasten screws securing igniter to housing.
8. Remove ignitor from distributor and unfasten screws mounting ignitor to heat sink.
9. Coat back of new ignitor (or old igniter, if reusing) and male connectors with silicone grease. Silicone grease increases heat transfer to heat sink. Failure to apply silicone grease will cause the ignitor to quickly fail.
10. Mount ignitor to heat sink and reinstall ignitor, igniter terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ignitor terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

AutoZone can test ICMs and coils for free. If you plan to keep the car, I would replace the ICM due the age of your Civic.

check for broken or disconnected vacuum hose/line
also check for the fast idle sped control valve for defect

the idle air control valve may be bad or just needs cleaned out. idle air control valve acts the same as a choke. if it is messing up it will cause engine not to run right.

Because the car has adaptive technology, it may take a while to reset and adjust to the new, cleaner and better conditions than those to which it had previously adapted.

Did you change the cap and rotor? if the plugs needed replacement, likely they do too

Possible other causes include:

loose or corroded connections to any electrical component you disturbed (make a checklist and tick them all off as you check them);

mis-reinstallation of any F.I. part disturbed(checklist again)

obstructed water flow through the AIC valve;

improper voltage output from the AIC valve (for LH 2.4 systems, should output 8 volt at idle, dropping as load increases; for LH 2.4.2 system output 7 volt at idle etc; testing between terminals)33 and 17 at disconnected LH connector;

possible problem with MAF.

Hope this helps

Saabreur

The valve is stuck.