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Re: what size bolt hold the speedometer bracket to the...
I AM NOT SURE ABOUT THIS SPECIFIC BOLT, BUT FORD REALLY LIKES TO USE THE 5.5 MIL. GO BY A FORD SERVICE SHOP AND ASK FOR ONE THEY WILL PROBABLY GIVE IT TO YOU.
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unscrew the cable from the transmission. if you can`t unscrew it,unbolt the lock bolt that holds the little bar which keeps the speedometer cable in place and remove the speedometer driven gear assembly from the transmission. the gear is plastic and is what the cable is driven by.
Disconnect and remove the battery. Remove the axleshaft nuts on the spindle and remove the 6 splined bolts holding the axleshaft to the transmission yoke. Jack the car up 1-2 feet. You'll need to support the motor with a jack or jack stand. Drain the transmission, there is a 17mm allen plug at the bottom of the housing. The filler plug is on the right end of the transmission, (17mm allen plug also) to the right of the throw out bearing housing plug, that says VW on it. Remove the axleshafts. Unplug the back up switch. Remove the starter, that will also disconnect the motor/transmission mount. Disconnect the clutch cable and shifter linkage attached to the transmission. Remove the speedometer cable. Unbolt the rear transmission mount (17mm bolt going vertically down, a real long extension will help to get to that one) and bracket going to the end of the transmission at the top, 2, 17mm bolts with nuts. Remove the bracket. Remove the lower inspection sheild, 3, 11mm bolts. From the underneath side, on the other side of the motor where the transmission joins the motor, there is a 19mm bolt holding the transmission to the block, remove that, and also remove the small inspection plate above there, 2, 10mm bolts. Unbolt the two top bellhousing bolts, and it's ready to remove, pull the transmission away from the motor 2-4 inches to clear the input shaft from the clutch disc, you'll have to kind of turn and twist the transmission to get the transmission to clear the sub frame. Also moving the engine up or down will also help. The transmission weighs about 70 pounds.
Front wheel drive, you have to look on the side of you transaxle transmission. I'm guessing sorry for the guess. Look to see where transmission bolts up to engine. Look about 2's back from there. You should see a sensor. It should be mounted with a hold down bracket and hex bolt. Remove bolt and remove unit out should have a pinion on the end. Remove the electrical connection replace with new. FYI. LOOK AT BOTH SIDES OF TRANSMISSION COULD BE ON LEFT OR RIGHT.
follow speedo cable to the transmission ,it should screw on at that point. next take out 1 bolt for y shaped hold down fork and check for a stripped speedometer gear , its plastic pull it straight up and out if teeth are missing check the gear in transmission connected to that one. also since its apart try turning the cable while someone watches it, if it turns smoothly then its ok just replace transmission gear.and reinstall cable. if it makes the speedo jump or turns roughly replace cable as well.your local auto parts stores should have these, if not I know the dealers will.
Remove the TV cable or transmission throttle cable from the carburetor or throttle body. Remove the upper bolt holding the transmission dip stick but do not remove the tube. Disconnect the negative cable to the battery. Drain the transmission fluid by removing the transmission pan. Replace the pan after draining the fluid. Remove the shift linkage and the wires to the neutral safety switch. Remove the speedometer cable by unscrewing the cap at the point it enters the drive gear in the tailshaft. If it has an electronic speedometer, disconnect the electrical connector.
Install the engine support stand above the engine. Remove the CV joints. Remove all electrical connectors from the transmission. Remove the bolts in the torque converter. Place the floor jack under the transmission. Raise the transmission just enough to support it. Remove the transmission mounts. Lower the transmission enough to have access to remove all the transmission bolts. On a rear wheel drive vehicle, remove the bolts in the bottom of the transmission mount. Raise the transmission enough to remove the cross member. Once the bolts are out remove the cross member and then lower the transmission. Remove the dip stick tube from the transmission by lifting up. If it is hard to come out tap its mounting bracket with something and it will come up and out. Support the transmission securely on the jack. Using a flat head, separate the transmission from the engine. Lower the transmission.
hope this helps
but you can also just pull the motor and trans for better access ive also got an 85 chevy im about to do some work on ganna pull and rebuild the motor which is a first for me so if u know any one i could also get some tips from help would be awsome thank you
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Open the hood and place protectors on the fenders. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Disconnect the detent cable at its upper end.
Remove the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
Raise the vehicle and safety support it with jackstands.
NOTE: If a floor pan reinforcement is used, remove it if it interferes with driveshaft removal or installation.
Disconnect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
Disconnect the shift linkage at the transmission.
Disconnect all electrical leads at the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
Remove the flywheel cover and matchmark the flywheel and torque converter for later assembly.
Remove the torque converter-to-flywheel bolts and/or nuts.
On gasoline engine vehicles, disconnect the catalytic converter support bracket.
Remove the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
Slide the transmission support rearward.
Loosen the transmission enough to gain access to the oil cooler lines and detent cable attachments.
Disconnect the oil cooler lines and detent cable. Plug all openings.
Support the engine and remove the engine-to-transmission bolts.
Disconnect the transmission assembly, being careful not to damage any cables, lines or linkage.
Install a C-clamp or torque converter holding tool onto the transmission housing to hold the converter in the housing. Remove the transmission assembly from the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this).
To install:
Fig. 1: Transmission oil cooler lines
Install the transmission assembly into the vehicle (a hydraulic floor jack is best for this). When installing the flex plate-to-converter bolts, make sure that the weld nuts on the converter are flush with the flex plate and that the converter rotates freely by hand. Coat the threads with thread locking compound, hand-start the three bolts, tighten them finger tight and torque them evenly to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
Support the engine and install the engine-to-transmission bolts. Torque the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
Connect the oil cooler lines and detent cable.
Slide the transmission support forward.
Position a transmission jack under the transmission and raise it slightly.
Install the transmission support-to-transmission mount bolt and transmission support-to-frame bolts, and any insulators (if used).
On gasoline engine vehicles, connect the catalytic converter support bracket.
Install the flywheel cover.
Connect all electrical leads to the transmission and any clips that hold these leads to the transmission case.
Connect the shift linkage at the transmission.
Connect the speedometer cable at the transmission.
Check to see if all under vehicle components and fasteners are properly installed and torqued.
Lower the vehicle safely.
Install the transmission oil dipstick, and the bolt holding the dipstick tube if it is accessible.
Connect the detent cable at its upper end.
Connect the negative battery cable. Recheck all procedures for completion of repair. Close the hood and remove the protectors on the fenders.
Install the air cleaner assembly. Refill the transmission with fluid as outlined in the "Oil Pan'' section in this chapter.
That is probably your speedometer gear. It goes in the side of the transmission toward the back of the transmission. There is usually a bracket holding the gear into the transmission with a small bolt holding the bracket. You are probably loosing some transmission fluid also..
Sounds like the vehicle speed sensor is not working, or the gear on it is stripped. If you look at the rear housing of the transmission, you will see a black plastic sensor protruding from it with a two wire connector and the speedometer cable attached to it. The sensor might be coming apart or the gear that is driven off the output shaft is stripped. The speed sensor, along with the governor, tell the transmission when to shift. You can remove the sensor by simply taking out the bolt that holds it in. A small bracket around the sensor is secured by this bolt. Carefully look at the nylon gear to see if it is worn through the middle.
the speedometer/odometer works on a cable that goes into the side of the transmission with one 10mm bolt holding it in. It sounds as if the cable has been broken,pulled loose, or siezed up. Its easy to check the end under the vehicle but its very complicated checking it inside the dashboard. If you are a do it yourself type of person, id look underneath and see if the connection under the vehicle is still connected. Look on left rear of the transmission for a cable that goes into it and is held with a "Y" bracket and a small bolt.The dashboard part is the type of job where u got to make sure you remember where each screw goes to get back together.
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