1991 Honda Accord EX 2.2L ignition and fuel injection computer locationon vehicle

This post may be an old post, but I figured I'd post my findings in case anyone is still fighting the good fight.
My vehicle:
2008 Honda Accord 2.4L EX-L
Codes: P062f p060a p2610 p2118
Hard starting when cold or sitting for over 25 min. Otherwise would start fine and drive fine with no issues until next start.
Process:
Replaced battery, no change
Sent Pcm (ecu) for repair/service. ECU came back with no errors or damage found. No change.
Replaced throttle body, no change.
Cleaned map and maf sensors, no change. (This fixed issue for someone so figured I would inspect.)
Replaced FTP, code went away, but no change.
*Note: During idle, I noticed a minimal sputter. Almost not audible.
Researched more, and one person mentioned they changed the spark plugs and that fixed their car.
So, I produce a list of all possible fuel/Ignition related possibilities for hard start/idle sputter.
Spark plugs
Ignition coils
Injectors
Fuel pump
As for me, I replaced the fuel injectors, ignition coils, and fuel pump about 2 years ago. And due to covid my car was almost not driven for the last 2 years. So, I removed them as possibilities for me. That left spark plugs.
I bought some NGK iridium plugs and replaced them. Old plugs were worn. (See pictures). This resolved my issues. No more cell lights, hard start, or idle sputter.
Definitely do your due diligence, but I'd say definitely go in this direction if your symptoms sound like mine did.
Good luck, everyone.

So pull a spark plug wire,carefully, and stick a long thin screw driver into the open end, be gentle, hold the screwdriver about a half inch away from the engine valve cover, and have yer buddy crank it ,do you see a blue spark? Ok if you did see the spark, then that system is functioning. If not then its the ignition system. Next at the end of your fuel rail look for the tire valve looking thingy, and turn the key on an then off, take the little plastic cap off of the thingy(Schrader valve) and in the middle of it you see a small pin, push that pin in and if it squirts out fuel with some pressure then you have fuel pressure, if not, check the fuel pump fuse, and the relay, pump.

Hi there:
First I suggest scanned the ECU. The misfire counter function can help you determine which cylinder is behaving badly. Clearly this is not an option for all people and vehicles though.
NOTE: Even without engine scanners you can identify which cylinder is causing a dead misfire. Carefully disconnect one spark plug at a time. If the cylinder you are disconnecting is operating properly you will hear a change in RPM. If the cylinder you disabled is the bad cylinder you will see no change in engine behavior.

Check your ignition system. There are several steps to this.
- Remove spark plugs and check to see if the electrodes look worn down or contaminated. Check your spark plug gap with a plug gapper to see if the electrode has worn down.
- Use a multimeter to check your spark plug wire resistance. They should read roughly between 2,000 - 12,000 Ohms. What you are really looking for is an open circuit in one of the wires. Bend the wires around and see if you lose continuity.
- Check cap and Rotor. Look for carbon tracking or extremely worn down rotor.
- On newer vehicles with distributeless ignition systems coils are prone to failure. If you know which cylinder is misfiring try swapping that cylinder's ignition coil with another cylinder and see if the misfire moves with it.

If you know your ignition system is operating properly you may want to check compression. You may already have the spark plugs out from your ignition check so it only takes a minute to check engine compression.

Fuel injection Service - The motorvac service works miracles. It is available at most repair facillities. Adding a can of fuel injector cleaner to your fuel tank is not ecnough to clean out a severely plugged injector. The motorvac solvent is much more potent and should only be used with a fuel injection cleaning machine. It is a good place to check with a hard to find misfire.

Vacuum leaks - A vacuum leak will cause a misfire. If the leak is near a certain cylinder that cylinder will misfire. You can try to find a leak by spraying down the engine carefully with carb cleaner. If you spray the location of the leak the RPMs will rise. You can also inject the intake manifold with smoke from a smoke machine and look to see if it leaks out anywhere it is not supposed to.

Hope this helps; also keep in mind that your feedback is important and I`ll appreciate your time and consideration if you leave some testimonial comment about this answer.

Thank you for using FixYa, have a nice day.

I have ran into this many times, when there is no spark or fuel pump it's working it has always lead me to the ignition igniter in the distributor.

not starter. Check for fuel, then spark.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5821173-doesnt_car_start_gasoline_engines . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

ITS THE DISTR CAP..CLEAN THE 4 TIPS AND ROTOR WITH SAND PAPER..MY CAR DOES THAT ...

What you're describing could be a broken timing belt. To check the timing belt, if there is not a visual inspection hole, you will need to take off the timing belt cover or the valve cover.

The other possibility is a ignition/spark problem. Check for spark by pulling one of the spark plug wires, and look for spark as the starter is cranked. If no spark, check the distributor wiring and connections, If all good, it may be the ignition coil has gone bad.

Also, to be sure you are getting fuel, pull one of the spark plugs. You should smell fuel coming from that cylinder after the engine is cranked.

If you know someone with a scan tool you can use it to plug in to the vehicle's computer to check the sensor readings while starting it. I'm almost certain the problem is going to be either the camshaft position sensor or the crankshaft position sensor.

Yes, I always do the same thing when I buy a new vehicle that way I keep track of it and know exactly when it was done. first buy a new air filter, new fuel filter, new spark plugs, and maybe plug wires. check all belts and hoses. and change oil and filter. these things will pay for themselves. have fun. Wow a 91' with only 60,000 miles that's amazing. I've got 178,000 on my 93' accord lx and it's still running perfect!!

It may be the O2 sensor. I know it's not the fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, Vehicle Speed Sensor, Dis. cap, or TCM.