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Nicholl Baker Posted on Jul 20, 2012

2001 escape squealing noise when engine is under presure

"squealing" noise from under hood when engine is under pressure. We replaced the serpentine belt and tensioner, no noticable leaks or orders, not over heating.

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  • Posted on Jul 20, 2012
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Use a mechanic's stethoscope to locate the culprit sqeal. Have a technician rev the engine, in order to produce the squeal. Lay the stethoscope tip utop the water pump, nearest the armature. Locate squeal in this fashion against the idler pulley(if applicable), the alternator, the air conditioner compressor, power steering pump (if applicable), the cam shafts (if applicable), and finally the crank. This will help isolate the location of the squeal.2001 escape squealing noise when engine is under p - 7_20_2012_9_07_34_pm.jpg

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 379 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 20, 2009

SOURCE: serpentine belt

J5


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old marine

old marine

  • 2426 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 08, 2009

SOURCE: can't get belt back on

AutoZone has diagrams of serpentine and accessory belt routing for your model here.

tshot2020

Timothy Shotwell

  • 23 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 21, 2009

SOURCE: 2004 Ford Taurus V6 noise underhood appears to be belt

Sounds like a bad idler pulley,or belt tensioner. Most likely not water pump since the check engine light is not on. Altho it couold be the water pump and for some reason (bad sensor, burnt out light) the check engine isnt coming on. Either way it would be best to have it looked at.

Anonymous

  • 62 Answers
  • Posted on May 16, 2009

SOURCE: change serpentine belt and tension pulley and idle pulley and

could be the alternator, water pump
take the belt and spin all the pulleys and listen for noise and make sure they turn smoothly
another trick is to take a can of wd40 or equivalent and spray the bearings 1 at a time till the noise goes away or quiets down

Anonymous

  • 79 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 06, 2009

SOURCE: Battery in a 2001 Ford Escape won't hold charge.

After eight years, if the battery hasn't been replaced already, then it may be just that. Otherwise the only thing left to check is the battery cables themselves. Corrosion at the battery terminals is obvious but the alternator lead connection to the battery terminal might need to be verified electricaly. Also check the negative battery cable at the block and chassis. Basic charging system test is: Voltage at the positive terminal with ignition and all accessories off should be at least 12.6 volts. If below 12.6 even after 2 hour charge, replace the battery. With engine running at 1500 rpm, between 14.1.and 14.7 volts. With the accessories turned on one at a time, the charging voltage should drop and then come back up and not drop below 14.1 volts. If it does, the regulator is deffective. The voltage should change in response to loads and engine speed. Good luck, Techjoel

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