And fuel injectors #2 and 5 as a mechanic said I was not getting fuel. Well car still is idling rough. I even changed the connectors to the coil packs as the wires seemed to be corroded and I thought that would solve the problem. It did a little but still slow and hesitating take off and does idle semi rough. I then realized that maybe I need to get another harness altogether for the coil packs to find out they can cost from the dealership $5000 that is not going to happen. Any suggestions regarding this problem or where is the best place to get the wiring harness?
The ecm fuel injector driver circuit could be the fault.have ecm checked out, it could be the problem dont buy new wires harness until you exhaust other possibilities.see ecm control injectors driver circuit.
Dont get another harness. If you are using Autozone supplied coil packs, the problem is most likely the coils from Autozone. I have went through this exact same thing before. I changed the coild because one had a burn mark on the boot between the plug and the coil pack. I noticed it when changing spark plugs. The new coil from Autozone made the vehicle struggle on take offs and idle rough and the vehicle had no power. I installed another coil from Autozone again which was supposedly a better model and costed more. The vehicle ran a little smoother but the rough idle and small misfire was still there. I installed another coil from the dealership and the problem was fixed immediately.
I also replaced one of the coil connectors for a different cylinder but only because i broke it when disconnecting the coil packs to remove the spark plugs.
And when I installed all my coils and the new one from Autozone, I used dielectric grease on all the connectors. But the rough idle and power loss was immediate following installing the new coil from Autozone.
Beware if you are using coils from another part store because many part stores get their parts from the same source.
SOURCE: 95 volvo 940 DL hesitates injector error codes 113, 212, 232
Check the fuse to the injector. If it is out or got wet, it could mimic these conditions. let me know what happens. I have an 85 model.
SOURCE: I have a 1995 Volvo
check the maf sensor or go to auto zone they check with the a machine for free tell you the code # for engine light...get code #?
SOURCE: car will not start when
hi there, when air flow unplugged, ecu goes into limp home mode ,a back up if something dies whilst driving. it sounds as if your used mass air flow sensor is faulty , they are more fragile than they look, one knock and these early fine wire models are gone. i replaced many when i worked at a volvo dealership a few years ago. hope this helps, and good luck.
SOURCE: replaced Idle Air Valve and EGR Valve. Car still runs rough.
There is an *awful lot* of stuff that can cause a car to have hesitation on acceleration.
Have a *good* mechanic read the codes from your vehicle and do the diagnosis.
You might also suspect a crappy or clogged EGR valve.
Like the other post said, you could try buying some MAF cleaner and carefully spray the element inside of the MAF sensor with it according to directions ... that's pretty easy to do. But this only works for the "hot wire" type of MAF sensor. The cold-wire or any other type this will not be possible for.
On the chance that the MAF is contributing to the problem ... here's something you might try.
MAF sensors are very very VERY sensative. Any, and I mean ANY crack or air infiltration in the duct or housing that goes from your MAF sensor to the plenum will cause your car to have problems.
(that is, the section of the air ducting that is *behind* the MAF sensor... in other words, the section of black plastic or rubber ducting that is between the MAF sensor housing and your engine.)
Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Clean the whole outside of the housing, ducting etc with hot water and something to cut the grease a bit like dishsoap , maybe a couple squirts of carb cleaner and rinse - dry it off with a towel (make it pretty)... this means the whole outside of the rubber or plastic tube or duct between the MAF sensor and the plenum (air intake) on the engine. Then, check that every band-clamp (hose clamp) or any other fastener on that ducting is properly tight ... tighten any that are not. Now get a big roll of duct tape or electrical tape and wrap tape around any and all areas of that run of ducting that has any possibility of being loose or cracked including at any joints ... wrap it as if you were trying to stop a leak from a hose ... round-and-round.
Importantly, if any of the ducting is the hard rubber type that has a sort of "accordion" appearance, duct tape that section where those ridges are really well ... this is a notorious place for hairline cracks.
Finally, hook the battery back up and restart the car ... make sure to drive it for a good 20 or so minutes so that the engine can make any accomodations to it's electronic controls.
If this does not help and you decide to go back to spray your MAF sensor off, you will obviously have to unseal/untape at the joints necessary to access the MAF sensor. (But FIRST make sure you have the hot-wire style MAF that this will work on, eh?)
You may in fact end up taking your tape job back off if it turns out not to be the problem ... but hey it's a shot.
SOURCE: how do you clean a throttle body on 1999 s70?
try this b4 taking things apart... redexe/wynns fuel additive and using high octane fuel the computer will adjust running accordingly...
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