Coolant in air intake and oil deposits on spark plugs

There are three common reasons for oil on the plugs. A blown head gasket, worn valve stem oil seals and worn piston rings. The most likely reason will probably be the head gasket.
Check the coolant overflow tank for oil floating on top of the coolant. This is a sign of a blown head gasket.
For Valve stem oil seals check the following... On a Cold start you get a large thick cloud of blue coloured exhaust smoke. You also get the same smoke when going from idle to higher engine revs. Such as pulling away from a red traffic light after sitting waiting for traffic.
Does the vehicle use a lot of oil? Does it have excessively smoky exhaust gas, usually more of a grey/white colour, when driving? Has it lost power? Look in the engine air filter box. Is there oil? Worn piston rings sometimes cause 'blow back' where an oil/air vapour is forced back through the air intake into the air filter box.

This problem can be hard to track down , it could be caused by several thing's ! A bad check valve in the fuel pump letting fuel drain back into the tank , not keeping fuel line pressure up , a crankshaft position sensor can also cause this as well as an ignition control module !
Checks
Action
DEFINITION: Engine cranks OK, but does not start for a long time. Does eventually run, or may start but immediately dies.
Preliminary
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Refer to Important Preliminary Checks Before Starting in Symptoms - Engine Controls .

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Inspect the powertrain control module (PCM) grounds for being clean, tight, and in the proper locations. Refer to Engine Controls Schematics .

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Search for bulletins.

Sensor/System
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Test the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor for being shifted in value. Connect a scan tool. Compare the engine coolant temperature against the intake air temperature (IAT) on a cold engine. The ECT and IAT sensor values should be within ?± 3?°C (5?°F) of each other. If the ECT sensor is out of range with the IAT sensor, check the resistance of the ECT sensor. Refer to Temperature Versus Resistance for resistance specifications. Replace the ECT sensor if the resistance is not within the specification. If the sensor is within the specification, repair the ECT signal circuit for high resistance.

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Inspect the mass air flow (MAF) sensor installation. A MAF sensor that is incorrectly installed may cause a hard start. Important: The embossed arrows on the MAF sensor indicate the direction of the intake air flow. The arrows must point toward the engine. Install the MAF in the proper direction. Refer to Mass Airflow Sensor/Intake Air Temperature Sensor Replacement .

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Inspect the camshaft position (CMP) sensor for proper mounting and/or a bad connection. A long crank time occurs if the PCM does not receive a CMP signal.

Fuel System
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Inspect the fuel pump relay operation. The fuel pump should turn ON for 2 seconds when you turn ON the ignition. Refer to Fuel Pump Electrical Circuit Diagnosis .

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A faulty in-tank fuel pump check valve allows the fuel in the lines to drain back to the tank after the engine stops. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .

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Inspect both injector fuses for being open. An open injector fuse causes four injectors and four ignition coils not to operate. Replace the fuse. Inspect the injector circuits and the ignition coil circuits for an intermittent short to ground.

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Inspect for incorrect fuel pressure. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .

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Inspect for a restricted fuel filter. Refer to Fuel System Diagnosis .

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Inspect for a contaminated fuel condition. Refer to Alcohol/Contaminants-in-Fuel Diagnosis .

Ignition System
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Test both injector fuses for being open. An open injector fuse causes four ignition coils and four injectors not to operate. Replace the fuse. Inspect the ignition coil circuits and the injector circuits for an intermittent short to ground.

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Inspect for proper ignition voltage output with J 26792 Spark Tester. Refer to Electronic Ignition (EI) System Diagnosis .

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Remove the spark plugs and check for the following:

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Correct heat range

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Wet plugs

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Cracks

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Wear

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Improper gap

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Burned electrodes

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Heavy deposits

Refer to Spark Plug Inspection in Engine Electrical.
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Determine the cause of the fouling before replacing the spark plugs if the spark plugs are gas, coolant, or oil fouled. Refer to DTC P0172 or P0175 for diagnosis of the rich condition. Refer to Spark Plug Inspection in Engine Electrical for diagnosis of coolant or oil fouled spark plugs.

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Inspect for bare or shorted ignition wires.

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Inspect for loose ignition coil grounds. Refer to Electronic Ignition (EI) System Diagnosis .

Engine power insufficient reasons: 1. The spark plug ablation or have carbon deposition, cylinder line leakage. 2. The problem of air intake system, intake manifold pressure sensor bad bad or throttle work. 3. The oil pump oil pressure is not enough.auto diagnostic tool

could be a blocked air vacuum line you should see a thin air line coming from the intake and go to the cam cover top check this line as they do block up after awhile and it will cause this problem. also if this is blocked you need to clean out the intake top as this is were it clogging up as well.

Check the car in the following order.
1 Throttle valve/linkage sticking
2 Air intake/vacuum sysytem leakage
3 Air intake control valve
4. Engine coolant temperatur sensor
5. ECM

Sounds like a faulty fuel injector. RPMS don't have anything to do with transmission. They have to do with the revolutions per minute of the engine which is controled by the 4 forces of combustion, Spray, Flash, Bang, Blow. Spray is the fuel going into the engine (injector), flash is the spark (spark plugs), bang is fuel lighting to make the "explosion", and blow is the force of the explosion against the piston turning the crank shaft in the engine, there by causing a revolution. The forces that control this process are fuel, oxygen, and flame. Because it's reving too high, you know it's not a spark plug problem. Check your fuel injectors and your air intake to the engine. Hope it helps!

your timing belt on your vehicle is connect and turns the a/c pump if it run rough with the air on you may either have a vacuum leak in a hose or either your ac pump may be going out

I have never heard of this before but if this is the case then cranking the engine will refill them with engine oil surely ,i mean how do they build them on the assembly line at 3 engines a minute then start them from new on the test bed before the engine leaves the assembly for the body plant .Are you sure something else isnt wrong like the vacumn pipe to the valve on the end of the fuel injector line ?

There are three kinds of gasoline engine misfire scenarios, first there is the "under load" misfire and there is the "at engine idle" misfire, and finally there is misfire continuously. All engine misfires exist because one of three things has occurred. First, a cylinder has lost compression, a cylinder needs a certain amount of compression to operate correctly. Second, the ignition system has failed or is failing intermittently, spark is needed at the time of compression to ignite the fuel air mixture. Third, the fuel air mixture is incorrect, proper mixture is needed for the ignition system to ignite fuel properly. If any of these conditions occur in the engine, the engine will misfire.
1. Low or no compression can be caused by

a. burned or leaking intake or exhaust valves
b. worn or broken piston or piston rings
c. worn out camshaft
d. wrong weight motor oil was installed holding the cam followers from adjusting
e. broken valve spring
f. failed head gasket.
2. Ignition system has failed or is failing
a. spark plug has fouled or is worn out
b. ignition coil
has failed
c. spark plug wires have shorted
e. engine control module coil driver has failed
3. Fuel/Air Mixture is incorrect
a. vacuum leak at the intake manifold
b. fuel injector has failed
c. EGR valve is stuck open
d. mass air flow sensor has failed
e. oxygen sensor has failed
f. air intake boot is cracked

common problems:
1. fuel injector has failed or is failing
2. spark plug wire has shorted
3. spark plug is worn out or is cracked
4. ignition coil has failed is failing

Testing a coil on the car is pretty easy. No special tools are required. Just remember to be careful, the amount of electricity generated by your ignition system can be dangerous. If your coil is already off the car, or if you would like a more specific data-driven test, you can bench test your coil. To set up the test, remove one spark plug wire from its plug, then remove the spark plug using a spark plug socket. Next put the spark plug back into the spark plug wire. Be careful not to let anything drop into the empty spark plug hole -- very bad.