NO start mazda 626 2.2L, replaced headgasket have spark,compression,fuel,rechecked timming marks,#1 cyl up on mark crank on mark tdc, compression 120psi across all cyl.Eng turns over no problem, but still no start,

Hi Richard. I'm Tim Dorton. Make sur the engine is at TDC #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Crank over by hand with spark plus out, thumb over #1 cylinder hole, feel compression. Then put in #1 cylinder spark plug hole a thin screw driver, watch bottom mark line up and screw driver will reach highest point. then match marks to diagram.https://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/indytech/2010-09-30_110635_Picture1timing_chain_1.6.png

Check to make sure you are TDC compression stroke on number 1 cylinder.

Sounds like timing may be off. Recheck your procedure. Did you change the timing belt?

I would start by putting crankshaft to the zero point on scale-TDC on the compression stroke. Crankshaft will be at zero, TDC, twice; on the compression stroke and on the exhaust stroke. To find the compression stroke, pull the spark plug on number 1, with finger over hole, turn crank by socket until you feel pressure against your finger. Now turn the crank (clockwise) until it is at the zero mark-TDC of compression stroke. Pull off the distributor cap-rotor should be pointing at number 1 plug wire tower-Is it?
If good so far, look for inspection rubber plug to check camshaft timing mark on cam sprocket, OR pull the valve cover off and check the number 1 cylinder camshaft lobes that open the valves-both lobes, intake and exhaust, should be away from the valves. Valves should both be closed on number 1.
Post back with what you find. Good luck.

take the head off bent valves thats for sure

Replacing the MPV timing belt is a simple procedure. The trick is to turn back the # 1 cylinder head cam gear a few notches c/w, then install the belt over it. Reindex the timing marks for the # 1,3,5 cylinder head cam gear. Then it easily goes over the tensioner wheel. Of course, you have to pretension the belt tensioner wheel and hold it with a drill bit or similar device. Use safety glasses though !!! Don't forget to remove the dril bit, and reset the tensioner ! If you make sure the cylinder # 1 is in the compression/firing mode before dismantling, then there will be no problems. There is no need to remove the radiator. Use a regular torque wrench and a special tool or a pipe wrench to hold the crank pulley, whilst tigtening the crank nut. Rotate the engine through TDC for cyl # 1, to check for TDC compression for cyl #1. Recheck all fasteners for tigtness. It is adviseable to use loctite on all fasteners for safety. All the other covers, bolts, etc. are simple stuff. The main thing is to keep everything clean. Yes, the Mazda is a simple engine to service, but it is simple to make mistakes too. Disconnect the ignition coil and run the starter until the oil light goes off. Don't run the starter continuously, but make 2, 5 sec. starter runs, or so. Reconnect the coil and start the engine, presuming all the other fluids were replenished first

Check to make sure that the timing mark is there when #1 is TDC.Leave the wire on #1 cylinder and place the plug on somethig metal .With all the other plugs removed bump it over until #1 sparks. I would think that maybe the roll pin that holds the gear to the bottom of distibuter may have shered .This would cause issue.The cam and crank sensor will not make your timming off 180Deg.Timming chain will.But 180Deg I would think not.Where is the #1 cylinder when it is lined up in the cap? Make sure that you can't turn your distributer.Don't think you can turn it that far without removing it.

PULL OUT NO 1 SPARK PLUG PUT A SCREW DRIVER DOWN THE HOLE AND TURN THE ENGINE OVER BY HAND UNTIL THE SCREW DRIVER IS AT THE TOP THEN YO WILL SEE THE MARKS ON THE CRANK OR LOOK AT THE TIMMING COVER IT SHOULD SHOW YOU TDC

Put the engine at TDC compression stroke , Thats when the valves are both closed on No 1 cyl and the piston is on its compression stroke .then align all cam and crank marks. set distributor/rotor button on No 1 cylinder (rotor pointing at #1 plug wire) . rotate engine 2 revolutions and recheck all marks. Fire away

Put the engine at TDC compression stroke , Thats when the valves are both closed on No 1 cyl and the piston is on its compression stroke .then align all cam and crank marks. set dizzy on No 1 cylinder (rotor pointing at #1 plug wire) . rotate engine 2 revolutions and recheck all marks. Fire away

I can think of two possible causes:
1 - Assuming you are getting spark at the plugs, the distributor may be reinstalled 180 deg off.
2 - Unlikely but - Assuming you are getting fuel into the cylinders, the fuel injector connectors were reinstalled improperly and are firing out of sequence. If you are not getting fuel into the cylinders, it's something else.