Key stuck in ignition of Ford Expedition. Secruilock light on when engine is off.

immobilizer unhooked vehicle will not start ---immoblizers are vehicle specific need to replacement to be flashed to your vehicle

OK. So you lost your key. People do that all the time. That's what spare keys are for. But you apparently don't have a spare. So you tore into the ignition to try to get the vehicle to start. Now you are realizing that the vehicle has safeguards to prevent just that from happening (we call what you tried to do "hot wiring"). The reason that the car is designed that way is to prevent theft and therefore reduce insurance costs. Money saved in order to have a spare key.

So you made some stup1d mistakes.

1. You lost your key.
2. You didn't have a spare key.
3. You destroyed your vehicles ignition system

And now you want help. Unfortunately, you can't fix stup1d.
Call the dealer, get it towed, have it repaired, get a new key AND a spare. And after you spend that $1000.00, consider it a lesson learned.

Your car is misfiring. You should not drive the vehicle while it is misfiring. If you want to DIY it you can start with you ignition system. Make sure all spark plugs, plug wires, and ignition coils are secure and in good condition.

It sounds like you have a dead battery. have it tested.

Try to pull the steering wheel HARD to the left and see if that releases it.

The anti theft light will flash fast on the dash if it's activated. You simply lock & unlock the doors to disarm it.

Check your inertia switch to see if it is activated. Press the rest button. Se owner manual to rest.

The control functions are contained in the instrument cluster. This module carries out all of the PATS functions such as receiving the identification code from the encoded ignition key and controlling engine enable. The instrument cluster initiates the key interrogation sequence when the vehicle ignition switch is turned to RUN or START.
The PATS uses the PCM to enable or disable the engine. The instrument cluster communicates with the PCM over the SCP network in order to enable engine operation. The instrument cluster and the PCM use sophisticated messages in order to prevent a theft. The instrument cluster and the PCM share security data (when first installed together) that makes them a matched pair. After this security data sharing, these modules will not function in other vehicles. The shared PCM ID is remembered even if the battery is disconnected. The instrument cluster also stores the vehicle's key identification code even if the battery is disconnected. There are special diagnostic procedures outlined in this workshop manual that may be carried out if either a new instrument cluster or PCM needs to be installed.
All elements of PATS must be functional before the engine is allowed to start. If any of the components are not working correctly, the vehicle will not start.
PATS uses a visual theft indicator. This indicator will prove out for three seconds when the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START under normal operation. If there is a PATS problem, this indicator will either flash rapidly or glow steadily (for more than three seconds) when the ignition switch is turned to RUN or START. PATS also "blips" the theft indicator every two seconds at ignition OFF to act as a visual theft deterrent.
The PATS is not compatible with aftermarket remote start systems, which allow the vehicle to be started from outside the vehicle. These systems may reduce the vehicle security level, and also may cause no-start issues. Remote start systems must be removed before investigation of PATS-related no-start issues.
Visual Inspection Chart Mechanical Electrical

• Ignition lock cylinder
• Encoded ignition key (PATS key)
• Use of non-encoded ignition key (key without the molded plastic head, non-PATS key)
• Use of a non-programmed encoded ignition key

• Central junction box (CJB) Fuses:
  • Fuse 2 (5A)
  • Fuse 6 (5A)
  • Fuse 30 (30A)
• PATS transceiver
• Connectors
• Ignition switch

Hello, Ask the Dealer to check the "Cam Phasers". There is an Extended Warranty for this problem with both Years and Mileage added. There are a few other symptoms that are dead giveaways. A loud ticking in the engine below 2000RPM that disappears after 2000RPM, rough idle, stalling at any speed, and so forth.

If this is the problem, what is happening is each side of the engine independently regulates valve timing. When one "Cam Phaser" is out of synch, the timing is not right and the engine binds up and the engine stalls. A very good item to check for a free repair as it costs $1800-$2400 to fix.

Malfunction of the "Key reader" in the Ignition circuit or a bad key. Try a different key, but the Dealer would need to test the reader. Also, if you gave the Dealer the "SPARE" key because you have the everyday key on your keyring and did not surrender it with the vehicle; its a likely explanation for not finding the problem.

Ask the Dealer if they did a "Wiggle" test or can take it to the next level, that being a Factory "shake" test facility. The Dealer should also have a machine(or access to) called an "Event" logger, which is like a recorder that continuously runs. This would be like the Heart monitor people wear for a day to detect Heart problems. The machine is installed into your vehicle and you drive it. It measures more items than the Factory onboard computer.

I want to say that everytime an engine stalls and the Ignition is still on, the wrench light will stay on until the Ignition is turned off. If the engine is getting a gulp of bad gas and stalls; there is no mechanical problem with the vehicle and it is bad gas floating around inside the tank. Do a fuel sample.

You are correct about the potential problems, perhaps a Mechanic needs to use your Vehicle to go to and from work. I am very interested in the outcome for your problem and would like a note when you find the source. I hope my solutions are very helpful to you.

ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM Passive anti-theft system
Your ignition key has a unique imbedded transponder which engages engine electronics and allows the vehicle to be started. Without the use of your special ignition key, the vehicle will not start.

During each vehicle start, the coded key is read by the anti-theft system. If the key’s ID code matches the code in the anti-theft system, the vehicle is enabled to start.

Anti-theft system
Briefly illuminates when the ignition is turned to the ON position to verify that the passive anti-theft system is operating properly.

Also, its possisble that tou have actovated the fuel pump switch.

CHeck it.

You have a bad starter. A faulty starter will function when its cold but when it heats up, it takes more energy to get the starter to engage. Your problem is exhibiting the classic symptoms of a bad starter. I hope this solves your problem and the best of luck to you.

Apparently the vehicle was in park enough to get the key out, but not enough to get it to turn to start or allow the remote starter to work. Once it had been jiggled around and put ALL the way into the PARK position, all works well again!