They recently rusted out on us and my grandfather is the one repairing it. He knows where their located but can't seem to get to it and was wondering how he should go about that.
Hello Ashley,
Replacing rusty brake lines can be one of the most aggervating things to do quite often you end up replacing lines that you had not planned to replace. If you are talking about the brake lines at the rear wheels that would be good since they attach to the wheel cylinders on one end and flexible brake hoses on the other. The best way to replace these would to get them from Ford and then attempt to install them. The main lines from the front to the back you would probably have purchase steel line sections and unions (joiners) and bend them yourself since they are so long. The only picture I can find shows 2 main lines to the rear hoses, the rear hoses and 2 lines from the hoses to the wheel cylinders. Another thing that would be handy to have available is a set of line wrenches, these wrenches are almost closed but have a gap at the end so you can put the wrench over the line and then on to the line nut. This gives you the power and grip of a box end (closed wrench) but allows you to place it over a line. The only other thing you can use is a open end wrench which only has 2 sides and quite often rounds out the nut before it loosens, at this point vice grips are the only way to get them loose.
Focus Hydraulic circuit. Right front and rear wheels not shown. 
Photo above is of typical flair-nut (line) wrenches
I hope this helps some Thre are 2 Focuses in our family but as luck would have it none of them are available for me to give you specific tips on how to complete your task and Alldata dosen't have a procedure for lines, only hoses.
SOURCE: Replacing brake lines
Many issues can come into play when trying to mount prebent lines. First off, they are connected in
many of the same brackets as other lines, (ie.: fuel lines) . And sometimes because of the length and shape of a prebent line, other things such as the muffler routing, fuel tank position, ABS lines,
strut mounting can all " get in the way" of a one piece replacement. And of course all those lines would need bled of air when complete which poses problems if old bleeder screws are bad as well.
My suggestion would be to save the money on a factory bent line , head to or have towed to a
reputable garage and ask if they can service the lines, the experienced techs have ways of freeing
up a frozen bleeder, working around the hazards in the way with aftermarket replacement
brake lines and all the necessary adapters for proper connection. I have many years in the field,
and I have to say, YOU DON'T GET A SECOND CHANCE WHEN IT COMES TO BRAKES
Let the pro's do their job and keep us all SAFE. You wouldn't call a gardener to wire your house.
Ha Ha Ha I applaud your eagerness to fix things, but this is one thing I would let go.
thnx GT GOOD LUCK
PS Tell them what you have to work with and the quality shops will do what they can to help you.
The money you would spend on Dealer parts shoud be easily enough to more than cover the aftermarket repair.
SOURCE: 1997 ford escort brake line diagram
The LF and RR are in an independent circuit of the RF, LR wheels.
The master cylinder already has the lines hooked up in a way that if you trace the lines, you can make your own diagram.
SOURCE: rear brake drums 1998 ford escort
hi to remove the hob nut you need a large bar about two feet long and i think they are 30mm but you will need to replace them with new ones and torque them correctly or you will encounter problems theyalso have to be pinned when torqued it really is not a diy job
SOURCE: 2002 Ford Escort front brake rotors - removal
the first thing i will recomend you, is ti buy the new rotors first,
sisnce you did not mention if you allready have the new ones
and see if they are slide out type rotorss or one piece rotor assy
with the lugn nuts, sometimes they just slide out but sometimes you need to remove the center big nut in order to remove them.
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