I am unable to close the driver door. The metal piece in the door that wraps around the screw looking piece located in the door frame will not engage. Help...

Get your hands on a shop manual. Call your local library and ask if they have free online access to alldata or Mitchel on Demand.

See this post as well

https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/remove-a-door-panel/

Armrest Door Pull
Remove Rubber Cover
Remove 10mm ***** The first step is to pry out the plastic trim plate behind the chrome colored door release handle using a small flathead screwdriver.Then remove the 10mm ***** behind the plate using a ratcheting wrench with an extension bar attached.
Next pry out the rubber cover at the bottom of the door pull located in the center of the arm rest. Use a Torx T-25 (star bit) screwdriver to remove the two screws.
Remove Torx T25 Screws
2 T-25 Torx & 1 10mm *****
Pry Up Arm Rest Panel Use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the rear of the plastic arm rest panel. There is a plastic hook at the front of the panel, so only pry it up from the rear edge.
Lift Rear End First
Plastic Hook At Front of Panel
Power Window Connector After you lift out the arm rest panel, you'll need to disconnect the power connector for the window and door lock switches.
Push Connector Release Tab
Power Connector Unplugged
Two More T25 Screws Push on the release tab with a flathead screwdriver and pull out the power window / door lock connector.Use a Torx T25 screwdriver to remove the two screws located below the arm rest panel.
Remove T25 Torx Screws
Outer Edge of Panel
Push In Center of Fastener Then move to the outer edge of the door panel and locate the two small round fasteners. Use a small screwdriver to pop in the center pins of the two fasteners.
Pull Out Plastic Rivet
Black Plastic Fastener Removed
Remove Lower Fastener Pull out the two plastic rivet fasteners and set them aside in a safe place.
Pull Panel Away From Door
White Plastic Pop Rivets
Pull Off Sail Panel Grab the door pull in the arm rest and tug it towards yourself to disengage the pop rivet friction fasteners that hold the panel to the door frame.Move to the top corner of the door panel and pry off the triangular "sail" panel. On some vehicles, the sail panel contains the tweeter speaker.
Lift Panel Off Door Lock
Pull Out Door Pull Cable Lift the door panel off the door lock button and tilt the top of it out towards yourself.Use a pair of needle nose pliers to gently lift the metal ball at the end of the door opener cable out of the mechanism.
Disconnect the door cable from the back side of the door panel.
Door Pull Cable Removed
Disconnect Power Mirror Then disconnect the power connector for the side view mirror by lifting up on the release tab. Slide the power connector off the plastic anchor on the metal door frame.
Slide Connector Off Anchor
Unlock Connector
Connector Detached Look behind the door panel and locate the large wire connector with the pink lever lock. Swing the lever open to unlock the connector and separate it from the socket.


Door Panel Removed
Power Window Motor
10mm Bolts Now the door panel can be completely removed by lifting it up and off the door frame.To replace the power window motor, remove the 10mm bolts.
Stock OEM Door Speaker
Remove 7mm ***** The stock "OEM" speaker is held in place by a single 7 mm *****. Remove it with a socket and ratcheting wrench.
Pry Off OEM Speaker
Speaker Removed
Disconnect Power Plug If the speaker is stuck to the door frame, gently pry it off with a small flathead screwdriver.Disconnect the speaker's power plug by pressing the release tab with the small flathead screwdriver.
Fits 5.25", 6.5", 6.75"
Re-installing Door Panel According to the Crutchfield website, the 2008 to 2012 Chevrolet Malibu's front door speakers can be replaced withaftermarket speakers in the following sizes: 5 1/4", 6 1/2" or 6 3/4" speakers with the use of a bracket.If you'd like to reduce road noise, make your car quieter and also improve the sound from your speakers, I'd recommend applying some Dynamat Sound Deadener on to the metal door frame.
Re-Attach To Anchor
Plug In Power Side View Mirror
Re-Insert Power Connector To re-install the door panel, first hold the panel close to the door frame before re-connecting the large wire plug. Swing the pink lever closed to lock it in place.Slide the socket for the power side view mirror back on to its anchor and insert the power plug.
Lock Power Connector
Pink Lever Locked
Re-Insert Door Pull Cable Ball Insert the metal ball at the end of the door opener cable back in to the door handle mechanism.Slide the black plastic cone part of the cable back into the slot in the door opener assembly.
Door Opener Cable Reinstalled
Hang Door Panel On Frame Gently lower the door panel down on to the edge of the door frame with the door lock switch through the opening at the top.
Line Up White Plastic Fasteners
Push On Sail Panel
Push Door Panel In Place Move to the bottom of the door panel and line up the white plastic pop rivet fasteners with the holes in the metal door frame.Push all around the door panel to re-insert the pop rivet fasteners.
Re-attach the sail panel at the top corner of the door frame.
Push Panel Flush Against Frame
Insert Side Edge Fasteners
Insert Larger Piece First Next move to the side edge of the door panel and first re-insert the larger piece of the two fasteners. Then insert the smaller "pin" piece of the fastener into the middle of the larger piece.
Insert Small "Pin" Piece
Install Lower Edge Fastener
Tighten 2 T25 Torx Screws
Re-Attach Power Connector
Insert Front Hook First Insert and tighten the two Torx T-25 screws located under the arm rest.Re-attach the power connector to the plastic arm rest panel.
First insert the hook at the front of the arm rest panel and then snap the rear end in place.
Pop Arm Rest Panel In Place
Tighten 2 T25 Screws
Replace Rubber Cover Insert and tighten the two T25 Torx screws into the door pull cup. Then replace the rubber cover over the two screws.
Tighten 10mm Door Handle *****
Replace Door Handle Trim Plate
Malibu Door Panel Replaced Replace the 10mm ***** that goes above and behind the door opener handle and tighten it. Pop in the plastic trim plate behind the door handle.

I did this myself before:

Removing the Door Panel

The first thing to do is remove the tab in your door handle that covers the screw (using the flat head screw driver), which secures the handle and window/lock switches to the door panel. Using the Phillips head screw driver, remove the screw. Now, remove the door handle and locate the tabs securing the wire harness for the door locks & power windows. Using the flat head, push down on the tabs and pull the male end out of the wire harness with your other hand. You can now locate 2 of the 3 bolts/screws that secure the door panel to the door.Using the 10mm socket, 3′ extension, and the 1/4′ drive socket wrench – remove the bolts/screws. Located behind the interior door handle is a plastic covering with a hole cut in it, that goes around the rubber piece that is there to stop the handle.Use the flat head screw driver to remove that plastic piece. Behind that piece, you will find the 3rd and final bolt/screw that secures the door panel. Using the 10mm socket, 3′ extension, and 1/4′ drive socket wrench, remove the bolt/screw. At this point you can pull the door panel off by hand.There are only tabs holding it on now, and they all will pop off. Now on the inside of the panel, you will need to locate the backside of the interior door handle. Remove the cables that operate the door lock, and opening mechanism. No tools are required for this step. Now you have the metal door panel, which is secured by 11-12 bolts/screws around the boarder of the panel.Locate the wire harness for the window motor in the upper right corner of the metal door panel. Using the flat head screw driver, disconnect the wire harness.After removing the panel, you will need to push the rubber grommet through the panel – the wire is attached to it. There will also be two white tabs on the backside of the panel that secure the female end of the window motor wire harness to the panel. Using your fingers (or pliers) pinch them, to remove the harness.

At this point, you can remove the 11 – 12 bolts/screws that are holding the panel to the door.The panel will not fully remove, but will come off a little bit. Now for the gold colored bolts/screws and nuts.Three of the bolts/screws are what secure the window motor to the panel.The other two bolts/screws, and the 2 nuts hold the brackets that hold the glass in place.there is one of these bolts/screws, and one of these nuts on each bracket (on each side). Using the 10mm socket, remove all of the bolts/screws.The Nuts are a 12mm socket; remove them as well. The panel should now come off, and the motor & guts of the door, will be revealed.

These door panels are held in place to the interior door frame with push-in fasteners which are located around the side and bottom perimeter of the panel. These fasteners are popped out by placing a screw driver or other flat tool between the panel and the door frame. Usually there are screws and/or small bolts which hold the arm rest and door handle portion of the door panel. You need to locate any of these first and remove them. some screws/bolt heads may be hidden by small plastic caps which cover the heads. In some models, there is a piece of molding which is snapped in around the handle or on top of the arm rest. Once the perimeter fasteners are loose and all screws are removed, the panel is lifted up to disengage it from the bottom window frame. Be careful not to move the panel too far away from the door frame until you disconnect all wiring connections on the back side. Those nylon buttons that hold the panel in place sometimes break off when you remove them. They are replaceable(auto parts store).

Door panel is attached to door frame on the sides and bottom perimeter with push-in fasteners. There are screws that attach the arm rest/door pull to the frame , and also the panel trim around the door open/close handle.

Locate and remove all screws.

The perimeter of the panel is popped away from the door frame by inserting a flat blade screw driver between the panel and the frame.
There is a trim tool for this that works better than a screw driver. Pretty inexpensive from an auto parts store. Once the sides and bottom are free, the panel is lifted up to disengage it from the top portion of the frame where the panel is attached to the inside of the window trim.

Be careful not to pull or yank the panel too far out because of the wires that are attached to the inside of the panel.

Those plastic fasteners are replaceable, should any break when they are popped out (again, auto parts store carries these).
Hope this helps...

Stick a screw driver in where it would normally wrap around striker at door, pull handle and it should flip open there to allow closing. When working properly, it should snap back on its own when handle pulled so I'd give it lots of lube to see if it will start working properly.

Check the latch mechanism on the door. There is a piece of the latch that closes around the clasp on the door frame. sometimes this closes when the door is open and you can't shut the door. Take a screw driver and flip this latch piece open and close the door.

It was really not hard at all. First you have to remove two phillips head screws from behind the door handle and four more from around the outer surface of the door panel. Then I took a flat nail remover bar (very handy when you have nails driven into wood that you want to remove) and slipped it between the bottom edges of the door panel and located/popped aloose the securing plastic inserts around the outer edges. Then with gentle force lifted the door panel from the bottom upward to pop aloose the upper inserts. Then you have to gently lift up the left upper portion nearest the window (which should be lowered) that has the door lock plunger comming through it, from the door frame. When this is done, the one screw that secures the speaker frame is exposed. Once the screw is removed the speaker frame will slide to the left and off of the door thereby exposing the four mirror securing nuts. One of the nuts is located behind a round piece of glued on clear plastic. Once the mirror is removed and repaired/replaced just reverse the process above to reattach the speaker frame and door panel. Care needs to be taken when getting the door lock plunger and door handle reinserted into the door panel then carefully locating the plastic insert tips with the holes in the door frame. You can gently shove the inserts into their respective holes with the heel of your hand or fist and reattach with the six screws.

Hello, I have a 2004 Avl. I replaced the driver door window mechanism myself. You need to pry out the electric window controls with a dull blade as to not tear the vinyl. Disconnect the controls carefully. There are small release clips that hold the switch buttons onto the electric base. Then the arm rest, there is a long screw under the armrest. At the front towards the mirror there is a long screw under a round plastic snap cover. I believe it is a small metric bolt. Next grasp the bottom end of the door cover and pull with a sharp snap. Continue around the door panel gently pulling the snaps loose from their base. The door panel cover does not cantain screws only snaps. There is a clear plastic water barrior you need to be careful to peel without tearing and place on a clean flat surface with sticky side up. I had to replace the window track and motor all in one piece, can't just replace track. I purchaces the mechanism on-line parts store.

this is the link to the information http://www.swisco.com/Screen/how-to-repl...

Opening your patio sliding glass door should be an easy task. If your sliding door is giving you a work out every time you open it, most likely it is your rollers that are causing the problem. The rollers are located on the bottom of the sliding door and give the door the ability to slide. Often times they get dirty and wear out, making it difficult to open the door. If you have an older sliding glass door your rollers may have become rusty because sliding door units did not always use stainless steel rollers.

Hiring a professional to replace your rollers could cost you around $100 not including the cost of the replacement parts. Below are detailed steps containing all the information you will need to know to replace your patio sliding glass door rollers yourself.

* Before you start, understand that you need to take the sliding glass door out of its frame to work on the rollers. The sliding glass door is heavy. You may need the assistance of another to help you remove the door.

1) Your patio glass door will have two separate glass units. One unit is the door that you slide and the other unit is stationary. First, stand outside your house and look at your sliding glass door. If the stationary unit is between you and the sliding unit you will most likely have to remove the stationary unit so that you can get to the glass sliding unit.

Before you go through the trouble of removing the stationary unit, first try to go inside your house and see if you can remove the sliding unit. Usually you cannot because there is a lip along the bottom of the patio glass door frame (it keeps moisture out of the house) that prevents the sliding glass door from being removed from the inside.

If the rollers on the bottom of the door are difficult to get over the lip, you can adjust them to help you create more room (go down to step 2). If it is not the rollers but the sliding unit�s frame preventing you from pulling the sliding unit out of the door frame, you are going to need to remove the stationary unit first before you can remove the sliding unit.

To remove the stationary unit, you first need to take out your screen door (if you have one). Lift one end of the screen door frame and use a screwdriver to lift the roller on the bottom of the screen door frame off of the track. Do this to both ends of the screen door and your screen door will pull out of the door frame.

The stationary unit is held in place by a metal piece that runs along the bottom of the track from the corner of the stationary unit to the bottom of the side jamb (there is a chance this piece is missing but if you do have one remove it from the track). After you have removed the metal piece, look for screws holding the stationary unit frame in place. After removing all of the screws try pulling the stationary unit out of the door frame. If you are having trouble pulling out the stationary unit, try placing a screwdriver between the stationary unit�s bottom frame and the track it is resting on. Lift up on the screwdriver while you have a helper pull out the stationary unit from the door frame. Be careful not to use too much force with the screwdriver so that you do not damage the door track.

2) You may need to create more room when you attempt to remove the sliding unit from the door frame. To create more room you can adjust the rollers on the bottom of the sliding unit. By turning the adjusting screws on the rollers clockwise the wheels move up into the sliding unit�s frame giving you more room. The adjusting screws are located either at the bottom of the sliding unit�s frame or in the sides of the frame. There is a chance that there are plugs covering the screws.

After you adjust both rollers (one on each side of the sliding units frame) try to remove the sliding unit from the door frame. If the unit is still getting stuck you may need to get someone to help you. Have your helper lift one side of the unit and pull outwards while you try to pry the other side of the unit over the track.

3) To remove the rollers from most sliding units you need to remove the bottom of the sliding units frame. Most likely the screw that holds the roller in place is the same screw that holds the frame together. Remove the screw from both sides of the unit. Then try to remove the bottom piece of the frame off of the sliding unit; you may need to use a rubber mallet or a piece of wood and tap on the bottom of the frame until it comes off of the sliding unit.

Now that you have removed the bottom of the frame you can take a close look at your patio glass door rollers. Remove one of the rollers and match it up with one of the rollers on this page http://www.swisco.com/page/SI/CTGY/patio...

It is a good idea to replace both sliding door rollers at the same time to prevent extra wear-and-tear to one new roller, which will have to work twice as hard when paired with an older roller.

4) After your new rollers come in, replace your old rollers with the new ones. To make it easier to install the sliding unit back into the door frame, adjust the rollers to be all the way up into the frame. Once you have the sliding unit back in the door frame you can adjust the rollers for optimal performance. Keep adjusting the rollers until the door is sliding back and forth easily