1994 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera Logo

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Anonymous Posted on Jan 08, 2018

On my 1994 cutlass ciera, when I put it in gear you can feel the transmisson shift into to gear, but the car will not go. If you keep pushing the throttle an rev the motor it adventually will take off and you can drive and it shifts find, but let it sit alittle while and you have to do it all over again.

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Mark

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  • Expert 38 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 08, 2018
Mark
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Or if its a auto transmission might be low on transmission fuild or worn out transmission so check dip stick with hand brake on engine running make sure hand brake works.

Russ Hill

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  • Oldsmobile Master 4,057 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 08, 2018
 Russ Hill
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Sounds like clutch slipping. when warm it will expand , cooling down will shrink. can also be oil or grease on the clutch plate.

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Oct 10, 2008

SOURCE: repalce front driver power window motor - 1993 cutlass ciera

Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.

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Anonymous

  • 61 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 30, 2009

SOURCE: 1988 oldsmobile cutlass ciera check engine light on then stalled.

Wow! thats verry low miles for an 88. Check the fuel pressure at the injector. If the pressure is low the filter could be clogged or the pump is not putting out enough pressure. Replace both if the pressure is not up to par. also check the fuel relays.

Anonymous

  • 607 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 03, 2009

SOURCE: Transmission problem on 95 cutlass ciera

Overdrive has two important factors involving when and if it turns on besides being in the proper gear shift position. One is tthe car has to FIRST reach operating temps before it will engage the TCC ( torque converter clutch ). That could involve a faulty thermostat, or short distance drives, Second important factor WILL DISENGAGE WHEN STEPPING ON THE BRAKE PEDAL. A brake switch could be misadjusted , and without you stepping on the brake, the computer thinks you are and wont engage TCC. Hope this helps.

Anonymous

  • 15 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 01, 2009

SOURCE: gear shift "loose" - car won't go into any gear

it could be your shift cable snapped?

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 30, 2009

SOURCE: Automatic car won't shift from 2nd to 3rd, it just revs up

transmissions will not shift into overdrive, all other gears shift fine

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It sounds like your spigot bearing has either collapsed or Seized. This is a small bearing that sits in the flywheel and has the primary shaft of your gearbox running in it. when you press the clutch this stops the drive to the primary shaft and it spins free in the spigot bearing, if this bearing in Seized then it will keep spinning the shaft and hence you get your grinding noise, it's like putting it into gear without putting your foot on the clutch. The reason you only get it in first and reverse is because these are the only two gears you select while stationary, try putting it into second gear and if you still have the same problem then it's your spigot bearing. If not then it will be you Synchromesh, your bulk rings will be worn and this will require a gearbox overhaul. Either way your gearbox will need to be removed, asked them to change the clutch while it's off because this is good practice to do if you are removing the gearbox.
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