It started by making that traction active noice -in the middle of driving or when aply brake in a nice dry day- for couple seconds than again and again, till the "ABS/traction off" light and board message "service traction" was on -i wasn't driving fast or made a turn- after about two weeks the lights/message is on right when starting the car, a code reader didn't detect any code (i do have 171 and 420 code but nothing with abs/traction). Thank you very much for your help
I'll start with the code reader. Most simple readers will only read engine codes. You need a professional scan tool that does everything to access the body computer data.
It could be a wheel sensor which the ABS system uses, or one of the other components in the ABS system.
thank you very much for the help. So is there a way -like some step by step troubleshoot guide- I can figure the problem and fix it by myself without the professional scan tool?
Depending on the make and model, some vehicles can be accessed by the owner and you count the flashes of the light to get the codes.
At the very least you really need a repair manual that tells you how to access the codes and what they mean.
Again, some of the Haynes books cover this and some don't. ABS systems are not usually something the DIY is capeable of working on.
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SOURCE: Service traction system and ABS light
verify all tire pressures are correct this can affect abs traction control on your vehicle
SOURCE: 2001 oldsmobile silhouette traction corntol is off and ABS light
I agree with the post about the tail lights. And the symptom about the brakes on when starting was also helpful. When I took off my rear tail lights and removed the top light bulb (top of the 4 is closest to connector) then repeat starting the car the problem is gone. I have a whole drawer of these bulbs that I removed, not because the filament was burned out, but because the base (similar to circuit card edge connector) had heat damage and melted. I am not sure exactly what the problem is but I think there are multiple conductors in the fixture which are too close or get moisture shorts. Anyway I hypothesize the circuit for daytime running lights is leaking current into the brake light circuit, and it causes that module that controls traction control and ABS to declare a fault. When you start with foot on the brakes the brake lamp is pulled on (I don't know if switches hi or lo) so that module doesn't declare the fault until you release the brakes.
I put in new bulbs and it works fine for now, but I know it may reappear some day then I will repeat, disassembly of the fixtures and inspect bulb bases for heat damage and clean out and replace. That is what did the trick for me.
Thanks Fixya and all contributors
SOURCE: 2002 Chevy Impala Traction control /ABS problem
i have a 2002 chevrolet impala and the same thing happened to me. abs light came on as well as my traction controll light. when i would step on the gas or brakes my car sounded like the brake pads were skiping against my rotors. i had my hub sensor replaced 5 times. the machanic kept telling me it was the part that need to be replaced.they hooked it up to have a dianostic done and the computer keep telling them to replace the hub sensor. so finally we brought my car to an electric auto shop. they found it was a loose wire that was turning my brakes on and off.(haywire)they fix my car in 30mins.
SOURCE: abs light, trac light, service engine soon light 2001 Pontiac Grand Am
Sounds like you have a bad wheel speed sensor. You need to have it scanned. Since it's been sitting, it might just be a bad connection to one of the speed sensors.
SOURCE: Impala - trac off and ABS light along with service traction syst
THE PROBLEM IS WITH A HUB WHEEL SPEED SENSOR OR MORE LIKELY THE HARNESS LEADING TO THE HUB.
CHECK THE RESISTANCE AT THE HUB CONNECTION, IT SHOULD BE BETWEEN 900OHMS AND 1300OHMS. THEN SWITCH TO A-C VOLTAGE, IT SHOULD BE 100MV WHEN TURNING THE WHEEL BY HAND. IF BOTH CHECK OUT THE PROBLEM IS IN THE WIRING TO THE HUB.
THE RIGHT FRONT HUB USUALLY HAS A BEND, DOWNWARD THEN UPWARD NEAR THE CONNECTOR TO THE HUB. THAT IS WHERE THE PROBLEM USUALLY OCCURS.
NEW HARNESS WIRES CAN BE BOUGHT AT THE DEALER.
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