Changed the master cylinder on a 2002 Chrysler Sebring coupe, bled the lines as per the specs right rear left front and so on. The pressure will build however after 3-5seconds there is a loss of pressure. The master cylinder was bench bled and I have put a quart of fluid through the lines.

AFTER BLEEDING THE MASTER CYLINDER ON THE BENCH, DID YOU BLEED IT IN THE CAR, IF NOT, OPEN THE LINE AT THE MASTER 3/4 TURN OFF, HAVE SOMEONE STEM ON THE BRAKES, DO IT SEVERAL TIMES UNTIL YOU SEE FLUID ON BOTH LINE NO AIR COMES OUT, THEN WITH THE KEY ON START FROM THE RIGHT REAR WHEEL , SOMEONE PUMPS AND HOLDS THE BRAKES AND YOU OPEN THE BLEEDER 3/4 TURN, THEN LEFT REAR , THEN RIGHT FRONT AND LAST LEFT FRONT, IF NO PRESSURE AFTER OPENING 4 OR 5 TIMES, OPEN THE SYSTEM BY THE BRAKE HOSE, BEFORE THE CALIPER, IF PRESURE THERE REPLACE THE HOSES. 14 YR OLD HOSES MAY BE INTERNALLY CRACKED. NOT ALLOWING FLUID TO GO THRU.

could need a master cylinder,start at front line on master cylinder, loosen it slowly with someone pushing on brake pedal lightly.That will let u know if there is pressure to the front calipers.

Try checking with either propane or water mist on all hoses and surfaces where generated vacuum could escape.

Activator rod from Brake pedal to Master cylinder can be adjustable on some models.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

MANUAL BLEEDING

Print
For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.

MASTER CYLINDER

See Figure 1
If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.

Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.

PRESSURE BLEEDING

When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.

MANUAL BLEEDING

See Figure 2
Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

What about the front pads/calipers...also check the master cylinder..the master cylinder is the unit that the brake pedal connects to and it can have bad seals inside where the fluid is blowing by the seals and not building pressure

Hi, bleeding your rear brakes with engine running, you should get enough pressure out of the lines to squirt 3-4 feet. In other words, good pressure. If all you get is a trickle, you probably have a bad master cylinder. Just because its full of fluid, does not mean the seals arent shot. If you have bled them in order, left rear,right rear,left front,right fornt and have bled them enough to get fresh fluid out of each one without achieving good solid pressure at all wheels, replace your master cylinder. There is a proportioning valve, but usually it will affect only one wheel when going out, usually the left rear.
Brake pedal height comes from the rear brakes, so if you have bad pressure there, you will never get a good pedal. Eventually with a bad master, your brakes will go completly out..Mike

Brother, it's just the fact that there is STILL air in your system. Just fill the master cylinder, open the left front line and let it run into a bottle to catch it for a bit until you know for sure all air is gone from that line. Then do the same with the right front. Then the left rear, then right rear. This is gravity bleeding, no pumping required. It's the only way to know for sure that each wheel cylinder and line is free of air. Only let the master cylinder drain down about half way each time the tighten each bleeder. Refill with the drained fluid. Be patient my friend, it takes time to do it right, but it works for me every time. Good day.

Sounds like it is not completely bled. I would bench bleed the master cylinder first and then bleed to whole system again. The calipers take quite a bit of fluid and it sounds like you may have ingested air during the bleeding process. Start from the left rear and then right rear, then right front and then left front. Make sure you keep the master cylinder full during bleeding because it can **** air if low and you will not notice. It takes a while to do it correctly unless you have a pressure bleeder.

HI. Here is the complete line up of specs concerning your vehicles front and rear tires. You did not post the trim line of this car, so I posted all models and tire combination's specified by the manufacture.


2001 Chrysler Sebring Lim 2 Door Convertible Front and Rear Tires P205/60R16
2001 Chrysler Sebring LX 2 Door Convertible Front and Rear Tires P205/65R15
2001 Chrysler Sebring LX 2 Door Convertible Front and Rear Tires P205/60R16
2001 Chrysler Sebring LX 2 Door Coupe Front and Rear Tires P205/55R16
2001 Chrysler Sebring LX 4 Door Sedan Front and Rear Tires P205/65R15
2001 Chrysler Sebring LX 4 Door Sedan Front and Rear Tires P205/60R16
2001 Chrysler Sebring LXi 2 Door Convertible Front and Rear Tires P205/60R16
2001 Chrysler Sebring LXi 2 Door Coupe Front and Rear Tires P215/50R17
2001 Chrysler Sebring LXi 4 Door Sedan Front and Rear Tires P205/60R16

did you bench bled master? if yes do you have abs system,if so you must bleed at abs block,if it has bleeders, if not then you must line bleed all 6 lines.2in from master 4 out to wheeles. then rebleed wheel in cylinder.If you have bleeders at abs block you dont to rebleed wheels. best dun with powerbleeder. hoooooops this helps