Car will cranks up and cuts off 2 - 3 seconds after it starts

After tempering with fuses? If it was running before , then recheck the fuses that you replaced. You may have put in a bad one or do not have it installed correctly. Make sure that power is getting to the fuel pump. Run a fuel pressure test. The problem could be with the injector power source. That is usually a red, 10 amp fuse.

no engine stated.!

fuses good,? 12vdc on both sides key on?

spark good on all cylinders.??????????

this is first. not fuel, fuel is dead last.

if above is ok the engine runs on test fuel.

if the engine runs for say 3 seconds on test fuel, and SOUNDS

great, that means the spark and engine are ok, leaving>?

FUELING only.

easy , right?

if true all that, then the scan tool is next.

wont buy one,? like most here? (you cant fix cars with no scan tool)



make up or buy a NOID lamp. (a small 12vdc lamp)

see if the injectors are all firing.

if not, the PCM is cutting fuel.

if the injectors fire (electric pulse) then it may be fuel relay not closing.

did you check for 12vdc (11vdc min) at the pump? cranking

you must crank it and check,

there are 3 kinds of cars. (we assume last)

1: pump runs keyon, full time, (illegal now)

2: pump runs for 3 seconds, and stops keyon, (for priming only)

3: runs only cranked, (most cars) and runs running engine.



see that logic there?

some cars cut pump and injection with no spark. ( to cut fires)

this logic is inside the PCM brain, called firmware.

just assume the car is smarter and use #3 above. on all cars

and I win..



the scan tool will show errors cranked for 5 seconds.

does it?



now why i cant leave generic help and answer specifcially

no engine stated.

to fix them you need to know whats there, first.



the line up

1.4 L E-TEC I4 (petrol)

1.6 L E-TEC I4 (petrol)

1.8 L Family II I4 (petrol)

2.0 L Family II I4 (petrol)

2.0 L RA 420 I4 (diesel)





next time post the engine in your car.

open hood , look up see EPA sticker there and engine type?

USA answers... all. of mine, as this is a USA forum../

try to add to one post for one problem not make many unique posts. stay on NO START. please.

which engine, no engine stated means answers will be wrong.
so??????????????????
that above is a statement so will run with that.
so what makes you think there is no fuel pressure??
1: the pressure gage is way low? how low , that you connected.
2: the pump seems silent. (near useless test)
3: pump never gets 12vdc cranking, you must crank.
4: the dribble test fails. (wasted time) (rail drips)
5: the injectors seem all dry, (spark plug tips are all dry)

now EFI 101 (crash course)
THE EFI system will be dead if fuse are blown.
and the ECU never injects with spark errors.
or CKP errors
or CMP errors
or IMMO is active. immobilizer is unhappy see lamp, look at it.

if all that works good, the ASD closes
the injectors fire
and the car starts if the ECU/PCM sees any errors stated above
it drops out in 2seconds <KILLING all injections,.
this is the PCM logic hard coded for fire prevention. all cars have it
with EFI.
does that help.

key factorys, ASD closes, for 2 seconds.
crank with no errors (scan tool shows errors after 5 seconds cranking)
if that works the engine does start.

ask for more tests, i have 3 more that find any bad start.

You may be on the right track, but I doubt it is an injector.
If one of the injectors were leaking the car should run rough when it finally starts and the check engine light would probably come on.
It could have a faulty one way valve in the fuel pump in the tank which would let the fuel pressure leak back into the tank. Could also have a problem with the pump relay.
I would check the fuel pressure with a gauge before and after startup next.

Check wiring harness.. could have a break in it... causing it to stop firing..

start with trying to start the car with your foot hard on gas pedal, all the way to the floor this will stop fuel flow on start up its called clear flood mode. as the engine starts to fire and run ease off the pedal until it idles, it may take some time to run smoothly. if it doesnt run or stalls after a short time and then will not run i would try a ECU engine control unit as it supplies the earth circuit to the injectors, may be thats whats holding them open or they are dribbling badly and require overhauling

When the ignition switch is turned on the pcm turns on the fuel pump by energizing the fuel pump relay. The PCM keeps the fuel pump on as long as the engine is cranking over or running.It does this by recieving pulses from the ignition module. If there are no referance pulses the PCM will turn the fuel pump relay off in 2 seconds with the ingnition on.

Most models also include a secondary control path through the oil presure switch witch will turn the fuel pump on after it detects oil presure.cranking time will be longer if the fuel pump doesn't recieve current until oil presure switch contact is closed.

check for a bad crank sensor for this controls the timing of crank shaft. and sends info to pcm. it will cause no spark or pulse at injectors.the engine may start but cut out in a few minutes or seconds, of operation. have the car scanned for the problem code, if no scanner, any auto parts store will scan for free. good luck !!

does it run 2 to 3 seconds? does the scurity light blinks? if yes leave the switch on after running 2-3 second wait till security light stops blinking then start if light still blinks you have wiring problem. if light just stay on you have spark and fuel check injactor pulse.always remember if you have good spark ,good fuel pressure and injector pulse car should start

Try the fuel injection relay they are located under the hood. They blow out every few years on my Volvo. The car starts to quit all of the sudden. It is either red or green colored. It is located in the fuse box under the hood.