When car shifts from first to second or drive it knocks or bangs loudly. You can feel it though out the car. My father in-law gave me the car and I notice that the tranny fluid is overfilled could this be the problem. if so how do I drain it and has it done some major damage. thank you thank you so much. I can not win for nothing. Joni
SOURCE: Knocking/juddering when taking off in first gear subaru impreza 1
Sounds like warped fly wheel.
SOURCE: SUBARU AUTOMATIC GEAR BOX CAN NOT CHANGE IN DRIVE SHIFT
Check the transmission fluid level. If it is low, fill it. Otherwise, if you happen to have a Subaru Select Monitor or equivalent, then you can read the fault codes for the 4EAT transmission and it will tell you which internal solenoid valves are sticky. At that point you can either add a quart of stuff that says it solves transmission problems and hope for the best, disassemble the transmission and change the problem valves, swap the transmission for one that works, or take it to someone to have it repaired.
SOURCE: Why does my clutch feels like a 30lbs. leg lift?
I don't know the clutch operating system on Subaru vehicles as I don't see them in my workshop. We mostly work on off-road vehicles.
Nevertheless, the basics always remain the same.
1. If the clutch operating system is not hydraulic, but work with a cable, unhook the cable from the clutch fork and test the ease of movement. Clutch cables can sieze up due to rust and/or lack of lubrication.
2. If the clutch operating system is hydraulic, bleed the system. If it is easy to bleed, you can take for granted that the master cylinder and pedal box bushes are ok. Master cylinders can also become stiff due to a bent pushrod.
3. Undo the slave cylinder from the bellhousing and move the slave cylinder pushrod backwards and forwards with the aid of a pair of soft grip pliers. Some cloth on the pushrod will do just fine. The outcome of the test is rather obvious.
4. The cluch fork may be stiff in it's bushes. To find out, you will have to pull the clutch , usually by removing the gearbox, sometimes it is easier to remove the engine (an old Series II Land Rover with modified suspension and 3 Litre Ford V6 engine fitted is currently in my workshop and it is impossible to pull the gearbox with engine still in vehicle).
5. Your pressure plate may also be the culprit. To test, the gearbox must come out. Specifications on operating pressure is available from clutch manufacturers. A testing rig can be made up with a sturdy drillpress, a tension scale and a little math to compensate for leverage.
6. The clutch plate splines may be worn, or siezed up or even distorted. With the gearbox out, you should be able to move the clutch plate freely on the pilot shaft of the gearbox, with hardly any lateral movement (wobble).
7. I once found a bunched-up carpet behind the clutch pedal which caused a very hard clutch action.
8. This is definately not a full list of possible causes, but could point you in the right direction. Remember not to take anything for granted. The most obvious tend to be the hardest to spot.
Happy hunting.
SOURCE: 2000 Subaru Outback transmission problem
After a good deal of research and several shops suggesting a rebuild of the transmission, I decided to have the trans fluid and filters changed before doing anything. It was a tough call because it could have been a waste of $125. As soon as the spin off filter was removed you could see it was blocked. So the hydraulic pressure in the system was way down, still enough to engage reverse and enough to work all the shifts, but not enough to engage forward without a slight tap on the accelerator.
My Subaru has 240 000 km on it and I suppose the clutch pack rebuild wouldn't hurt, but as it is now it engages quickly and shifts up are noticeably smoother.
May not be the solution for every case, but it solved my situation.
SOURCE: 99 Subaru Legacy auto Transmission will not Engage right away P-D
change fluid and filter
Testimonial: "Right on the money!"
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