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Driving just fine yesterday in my 99 ford taruas and out of no where my car would go any where in any gear, finally got in in first gear and that's it, won't find any other gear nor will it go in to park. now it won't turn over or start, even with a jump.
Re: Driving just fine yesterday in my 99 ford taruas and...
Hello The
engine in this cars drive train is fully electronically controlled by
a computer called the PCM. Whenever a problem like a stall (or
many other faults) occurs the computer stores a record of the problem
in the form of a fault code in its memory, to read these fault codes
you must have the systems memory scanned with a specail tool. Once
the fault code(s) are read you then must perform the appropriate
diagnostic testing to find and resolve the problem(s)
I think that your crank angle sensor failed. Is the check engine light on?? if so, scan it and get code. If the code is P0335, than you need new crank angle sensor. Nissan has been having some problems with those even on other Nissan products. (Altima, Pathfinder and so on) Good luck.
you have a bad temp sender,if this does not solve the rough idle than you have multiple issues and your idle control valve is not functioning properly try removing and cleaning it.its also referred to as IAC (intake air control)
Does the shifter feel loose and sloppy? Sometimes the bracket comes loose that the shift cable is attached to. If it isn't loose check the cable end at the trans under the brake booster.
It will start when cold, and after driving and then parking, the starter will not turn over? Replace your starter/solenoid.
WARNING: WHEN SERVICING THE STARTER MOTOR (11002) OR PERFORMING OTHER ENGINE COMPARTMENT WORK NEAR THE STARTER MOTOR (11001) , BE AWARE THAT THE HEAVY GAUGE BATTERY INPUT LEAD AT THE STARTER SOLENOID (11390) IS "ELECTRICALLY HOT" AT ALL TIMES. BE SURE TO DISCONNECT BATTERY GROUND CABLE (14301) BEFORE SERVICING STARTER MOTOR .
2.0L Engine Starter Removal
Disconnect battery ground cable.
Remove engine intake air resonator and air box.
Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor and mass air flow (MAF) sensor.
Remove three starter motor retaining bolts and ground wire.
Raise vehicle on hoist.
Remove integral connector retaining nuts and wires from starter solenoid.
Disconnect the knock sensor.
Remove the axle shaft bearing bracket bolts and position the bracket aside.
Remove the starter motor.
Installation NOTE: When installing lower starter motor retaining bolts, be sure to install ground cable.
Position starter motor to transaxle and loosely install lower retaining bolt.
Install integral connector retaining nuts. Tighten B-terminal retaining nut to 11 Nm (97 lb-in). Tighten S-terminal retaining nut to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
Lower vehicle to floor.
Install starter motor retaining bolts and ground wire. Tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb-ft).
Install engine intake air resonator and air box.
Connect the IAT and MAF.
Connect battery ground cable.
2.5L Engine Starter Removal
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve hose from the intake manifold.
Remove the IAC valve hose locator from the upper radiator hose.
Remove the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hoses from the air cleanter outlet tube.
Disconnect the intake air temperature (IAT) and mass air flow (MAF) sensor electrical connectors.
Disconnect the air cleaner inlet tube from the air cleaner housing and the outlet tube from the throttle body.
Remove the air cleaner assembly.
Remove the air cleaner housing support bracket.
CAUTION: Do not carry an open flame of any type when working on or near an open fuel system. The fuel system remains under pressure for long periods of time after engine shutdown. The fuel pressure must be relieved before performing any service to the fuel system.
Remove the protective service valve cap and connect the Multiport Fuel Injection (MFI) Fuel Pressure Gauge T80L-9974-B to the fuel pressure service valve, located on the fuel injector rail. Slowly open the valve and relieve the fuel system pressure. Remove the gauge and install the protective service valve cap.
Remove the safety clips and disconnect the fuel line couplings using disconnect tools D87L-9280-A (for 3/8-inch lines) and D87L-9280-B (for 1/2 inch lines). Install protective caps and position the fuel lines out of the way.
Remove the transaxle selector cable bracket retaining bolts and position the bracket (with cable attached) aside.
Disconnect the starter motor solenoid electrical connectors. Secure the battery cable harness and the heater hoses aside.
If equipped, remove the starter motor support bracket.
Remove the starter motor.
Installation
Install the starter motor. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
If equipped, install the starter motor support bracket. Tighten the retaining bolt to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Tighten the retaining nuts to 17 Nm (13 lb-ft).
Connect the positive battery cable and solenoid harness to the starter motor solenoid. Tighten the battery cable retaining nut to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Tighten the solenoid terminal retaining nut to 5 Nm (44 lb-in).
Install the transaxle selector cable bracket. Tighten the bolts to 20 Nm (15 lb-in).
NOTE: Inspect all O-ring seals and garter springs for damage, prior to assembly. If either O-ring is damaged, both O-rings must be replaced. Replace the O-rings or garter springs only with the appropriate replacement parts. Lubricate the O-rings with clean engine oil, prior to assembly.
Remove the protective caps and connect the fuel line couplings. Install the safety clips.
Install the air cleaner housing support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb-ft).
Connect the air cleaner housing to the air cleaner inlet tube and the outlet tube to the throttle body. Install the PCV hoses to the air cleaner outlet tube. Connect the IAC valve hose to the intake manifold and securely tighten the retaining clamp. Install the IAC valve hose locator to the upper radiator hose. Connect the IAT and MAF sensor electrical connectors.
NOTE: When the battery is disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 mi) or more to relearn the strategy.
The car is probably on a steep hill and a lot of pressure is on the park pawl in the automatic transmission. If this is the case, a hard sudden pull should release it. Make sure the brake is on. When parking on a hill in the future use the parking brake before placing the lever in park.
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Crank Sensor? I had a 99 Ford Explorer that died on me in the middle of driving and it turned out to be a bad crank sensor. Check all fuses and relays though just to eliminate the obvious, and maybe buy a repair manual from advance or auto zone. Best of luck!
you have a bad temp sender,if this does not solve the rough idle than you have multiple issues and your idle control valve is not functioning properly try removing and cleaning it.its also referred to as IAC (intake air control)
First thing is to check the fluid level in the transmission, most vehicles have to be running at engine operating temp either in P or N, check your owners manual. Assuming your fluid is where it should be, that vehicle you have sorry to tell you are notorious for transmission failures, by what you described looks like your going to have to replace the trany or rebuild it, either way its not a cheap fix. My advise if the van is in really good condition put a used trany in it and trade it in for something else. You can look anywhere online about customer/ owner feed backs on 88-98 windstar vans and how bad the transmissions are on those Ford didn't get smart till 99 or 00 when they redisgned the drive train. If you keep driving it the way it is the trany will completely fail leaving you on the side of the road somewhere.
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