Truck will not turn off, and keys are stuck in ignition in the "On" position. The gearshift would move but not recognize the gear it was in. But that seems to be working for now. I had to remove plug wire and disconnect battery to shut it down. I was thinking the tumbler went bad, but not real sure how to get to it. Just stumped. Any help is appreciated, Thank You!
SOURCE: Rplacing the ignition switch
there is a safety switch that prevents the ignition from being turned off and removed while in gear. try putting in nuetral and removing the key. if it does then it is a problem with the shifter and not the ignition.
SOURCE: Blower won't shut off
You will need a Blower motor resistor and maybe a blower motor resistor connector end. If you look under the dash on the passenger side(may need to remove smooth black cover, vents will be sticking out) you will see a connector going straight up into the blower motor resistor(7 wires/slightly in front of blower motor). Pull out the connector and check for melted terminals/wires. If no melted terminals just replace blower motor resistor with part # 89019088 per GM to revert to part before 04 in order to stop blower motor resistor relay from hanging. Let me know if i can help more.
SOURCE: Key and tumbler stuck in on position
had the same problem. try to get some graphite powder with the small applicator tube and squirt some in your ignition assembly. sometimes this loosens it up
SOURCE: Key stuck in ignition can't remove key.
I have worked on several vehicles with this same problem and each one was a relatively simple repair with no parts involved, first off the shift interlock has nothing to do with it and will not prevent your vehicle from going into park, it is designed to work ONLY when coming out of park. The problem your having depends on the type of shifter handle your vehicle has, if the release lever is on the bottom and you have to push up with your fingers to release it, then the problem is...there is a rubber type cover that surrounds the release button, after time it becomes distorted and bunches up preventing the shifter from fully engaging in the park position (even though it appears the vehicle is going into park)if your careful you can work the rubber cover out and your problem is fixed. If your shifter button is on the side and pressed with your thumb the cable needs to be adjusted, this cables only purpose is to prevent key removal except when in park and is easily adjusted, with the center council removed, if you look at the front of the shifter base you will see 2 cables that snap into the shifter frame, the larger one is the gear selector cable, the smaller one runs up to the steering column and operates the mechanism that prevents key removal, where the cable snaps into the shifter frame is where the adjustment is done and is identical to a kick-down cable used on older vehicles with automatic transmissions, right where it snaps into the frame there will be a button you can press down releasing a spring loaded adjustment arm, make sure you first mark the arm for reference then press down the button and adjust it a little either way until it functions properly, hope this helps and good luck
SOURCE: I have a 1994 chevy k1500 preignition knock
open the intake manifold by removing the air cleaner and or hose look on the back side of the plate to see if there is varnish and gum if there is you need to do a top engine clean, You must understand that running that kind of gas will cause varnish and carbon buildup on the pistons and valves. This causes the knock sensor to not to be able to adjust for compression change. It can only advance the timing 50% once the carbon build up is to much it will start knocking. If you want to receive instructions on how to fix this then rate me post a comment and I will give you the two page answer on how to do this. Unless you want to keep buying parts. your choice. I will no longer post it here as I see some think they can just take my answers and copy them.
1,304 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×