How to bleed hardtop in slk

replace power steering fluid with new fluid bleed system sound like you have air trapped in the system.replace fluid and bleed system see what happens.

possibly there is a air leak or a pocket of air in the hydrolic system try bleeding it losen one of the hoses so its just dripping start car and turnlock to lock a few times refill reservoir and do this again lock to lock the air should be gone if it still does it could be the steering box on it way out but this is unlikely hope this helps ivan

you bleed a hydraulic clutch the same way you bleed a brake system and it uses brake fluid as well.you keep bleeding until there is no more air in the clutch system.there should be a bleeder screw on the clutch slave cylinder that is were you bleed the clutch from.

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING Do not use fluid which has been bled from a system to fill the reservoir as it may be aerated, have too much moisture content or possibly be contaminated. Clean the dirt and grease from the cap to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system. It is also important to maintain the fluid level in the clutch reservoir to the top step with hydraulic clutch fluid Hydraulic Clutch Fluid GM P/N 12345347 or equivalent.

1. Attach a hose to the bleeder screw on the clutch actuator assembly and submerge the other end of the hose in a container of hydraulic clutch fluid.
2. Depress the clutch pedal slowly and hold.
3. Loosen the bleeder screw to purge air.
4. Tighten the bleeder screw to 18 inch lbs. (2 Nm).
5. Let up on the clutch pedal.
6. Repeat Steps 2 through 5 until all air is purged from the system.
7. Fill the reservoir to the top step with hydraulic clutch fluid.
8. Repeat this bleeding procedure if there is a grinding noise during the clutch spin down procedure.

Bleeding the Brake System
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or
replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because
air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is
necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged.

When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning
at the cylinder with the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master
cylinder) first. ALWAYS Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained
from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is.

The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are separate and are bled
independently. During the bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run
dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid.

1. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and
   fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 I n.
   (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.
   
2. Clean the bleeder screws at all 4 wheels. The bleeder screws are located on
   the top of the brake calipers.
   
3. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other
   end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
   
4. Starting at the right rear proceed in this order left front, left rear and
   right front.
   
5. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the
   brake pedal.
   
6. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to
   return slowly. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
   
7. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the
   bleeder screw and remove the hose.
   
8. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this
   after bleeding each wheel.
   
9. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.

HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full. Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

Hydraulic Clutch System BLEEDING The clutch system can be bled using a pressure bleeder. Follow the instructions that come with the pressure bleeder for the proper pressure bleeding procedure. The maximum line pressure while pressure bleeding must not exceed 36 psi (248 kPa). NOTE: To bleed a clutch manually requires the assistance of a second person, a section of hose that is compatible with brake fluid (preferably clear) and fits the slave cylinder bleed screw snugly and a container to catch the fluid that is bled through the system. As brake hydraulic fluid easily absorbs moisture, always use fresh fluid when bleeding a hydraulic system.

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. To bleed the system perform the following:
   1. Top off the hydraulic fluid reservoir using a fluid that meets the standards of the vehicle's hydraulic system.
   2. Open the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw and press the clutch pedal to the floor and hold the pedal down.
   3. Close the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw.
   4. Release the clutch pedal.
   5. Check the hydraulic fluid level and top off as necessary.
3. Repeat the above steps until the discharged fluid is clean and no air bubbles appear during the bleeding process.

Dot 3 oil.

You either have air in the system or a faulty master cylinder.

Check fluid is being delivered from the master cyl. by slackening off the hydraulic line connection at the master cylinder while depressing pedal.
Until fluid is able to be delivered from the master cyl. itself you have no hope of bleeding the rest of the system.

As with all hydraulic bleeding processes, only release the fluid line when the pedal is being pushed slowly down or held down against the return spring pressure of the clutch pressure plate - re-tighten it on the upward stroke of the pedal to stop it drawing air back into the system.

If you are confident that there is fluid delivery from the master cyl. move to the clutch slave cylinder.

Again only open the bleeder valve when the pedal is being pushed slowly down (i.e. the hydraulic system is pressurised).

(If you keep the master cylinder full of hydraulic fluid, sometimes gravity will cause the line to 'self bleed' if the bleed nipple is left slightly open for several minutes at the start of the bleed process).
When fluid appears, finish the slave cylinder air bleed in the normal way.

If you have the time to spare, I have often found that provided the master cylinder is kept full, leaving the system overnight will allow a lot of the air to leave the system (gravity helps).

The pumps rarely need replacing.

SLK top leaks are almost always caused by one (or more) of three hydraulic cylinders in a system of five cylinders. These three are the small latch cylinder located under the headliner, and the two larger cylinders that raise and lower the top located just behind both seats. The rod seals in all three are made using a proprietary material that is designed to break down over time. The other two cylinders in the system that raise and lower the trunk almost never go bad. This is because they are designed using the time tested Nitrile rubber O-rings, not the Novathan material that are in the other three.

Also, the SLK hardtop mechanical pivot points are notorious for needing to be greased every couple of years. When they stick, it seams as the pump does not have enough power to raise the top. Some times the pump gets blamed for symptoms that pertain to other problems.

Mark Andrews