Hard Steering I took my 2005 F150 to a Ford dealer for air bag hardness recall work, and after that the steering is unusual. The steering pump is working, I can see the fluid moving, and I have looked at the steering rack and there is no leakage. When I first start the car it does feel that everything is fine, but as soon as it get in motion the steering gets harder and it does not return after turns. Any idea of what is i the problem? Is there any adjustment anywhere on the steering rack that can be done to help with this problem. Thanks for your help

SOURCE: HI I GOT AN HYUNDAI ELANTRA YEAR 2001 2LITRES,HAVE

check the fuse for power steering. It might be electrical.

SOURCE: Power steering on a 1998 GMC 2500 Sierra pickup (7.4L)

have you tried bleeding the system with the engine running and turning full lock both ways? also inspect the belt make sure its tight enough
also make sure that you do not have a leak in one of the lines etc.

SOURCE: power steering noise

MY SUGGESTION TO YOU IS THAT THERE IS NO REASON TO GO TO THE DEALER FOR SOMETHING LIKE THIS BECAUSE IT WILL COST YOU 3X AS MUCH AS IT WOULD AT A PRIVATE SHOP.THERE ARE CERTAIN THINGS THAT ONLY THE DEALER CAN HANDLE,BUT ANYONE CAN DO THIS ONE.IVE BEEN IN BUSINESS FOR 20 YEARS.

SOURCE: Steering wheel (turning) is very hard to turn at slow speeds

Replace power steering pump

SOURCE: 2005 toyota sienna van power steering very hard

Most likely the problem is the lower steering knuckle. This is the one outside of the firewall, under the vehicle and it hooks up to the power steering assist cylinder. In my opinion the knuckle has to work at an unreasonably steep angle and this compounds the problem. The knuckle (especially in salt areas starts to corrode and becomes hard to turn. Toyota says the water gets into the bearing and they beings to rust the bearing and turning the whell starts to feel stiff. I have this problem and I sprayed liberal amounts of a rust inhibitor that a local place uses to rust proof cars (They sell small spray bottles of it for $5). They are called OIL TECH in Barrie, Ontario and make up their own formula. The formula has addatives that breaks the surface tension on the oil treatment and gets it into the tiny cracks and crevices on your vehicle. I sprayed this all over the knuckle, turned it back and forth a couple of times and continued spraying. I let it sit for an hour and went for a test drive -- problem solved. You could actually see the rust on the exposed parts of the knuckle. I probably will have to do this once every month of two but what the heck. It is a lot cheaper than having to replace the steering shaft ($1000+???) Probably other types of rust proofing or lubricating oils will work. I long for the old days of grease fittings and you never had to replace ball joints and tie rod ends etc.
Norm